Beta for your area.

[PhilNC]

Hi All, I'm making a trip with some friends to the cascades from North Carolina. We're flying into Washington State, and will probably hit up Squamish in BC. We got 2 weeks out there, and I wanted to know if any of you could recommend some good spots. Thanks.

[ncascademtns]

Two weeks is kind of short for a trip to Washington. You better cut out the Seattle site seeing than.

Index, Leavenworth, exit 38, the Gorge if your talking about sport climbing.

Alpine Climbing? Pick a mountain and go.............

[Greg_W]

It would be easier if you sort of clued us in to what you are looking for, what you like to climb, your level, etc.

[DPS]

There is this mountain out here called 'Rainier' that seems to be pretty popular. I think some folks even try to climb it.

[eric8]

I highly recommend vantage for this time of year

[allthumbs]

Baker

[Rodchester]

There is a great place to climb right in downtown Seattle. I think it is called the REI Pinncale crag. Yeah, beta on it can be hard to get out of the locals. They are really protective of that crag. No published guidebooks exist. Ihear there is some first ascent potential.

 

Really ... you'd get more information if you were more specific about your abilities and your desires. Crags, alpine, glacier mountaineering, etc.

 

[cman]

If the weather turns bad try Leavenworth. Otherwise squamish has plenty to keep you happy for two weeks. just watch out for drunken teenage mobs If you want to do some alpine stuff go to the north cascades, washington pass.

 

also index is seattle's best local trad, and hard sport, area.

if you want some sport climbing try exit 32 or exit 38, although i would hardly think it worth coming all from NC to climb at those places.

give us some specifics and you'll get more info.

[Dru]

the initial post for some reason reminds me of the "what is your current status" Strong Bad email.

 

we need a Strong Bad avatar on this board to answer silly questions

[mattp]

Phil-

You said you're going to the Cascades, but intend to "hit up" Squamish. If you're looking for some quick-hit peaks for a taste of the North Cascades, look at Mount Baker and Mount Shuksan for two easy-access peaks not far off the road to Squamish. Both have a variety of routes, and both can be climbed from the Mount Baker Highway out of Bellingham. For Baker, look at the Coleman/Demming route (easier), or the North Ridge (a scenic moderate with one or two short pitches of easy ice climbing). Despite reports to the contrary, both routes will "go" throughout the entire season. For Shuksan, look at the Fischer Chimneys (relatively easy but more complex than either of those routes on Baker), or the North Face (a moderate snow climb that will offer real ice climbing only in the late season, and the only one I mention here that will actually include a little N. Cascades bushwack).

 

For alpine rock, take the Beckey book and head to Washington Pass. In that same area, you might also climb Silver Star Mountain via Burgundy Col/Silver Star Glacier for a glaciated peak climb if the weather is questionable enough that Baker and Shuksan look no good but not bad enough to abandon mountain climbing hopes altogether. If you are over there and the weather craps out totally, you could probably still find some doable sport climbs down in the Methow Valley nearby (one pitch or six - eight pitch climbs on a larger wall)

 

Skip Mount Rainier unless that is the beacon that calls you from afar. I don't mean to suggest that it isn't very cool -- I have climbed and very much enjoyed six different routes on it -- but I think Shuksan or Baker offer more bang for the buck if you are looking for a "taste of the NW."

 

Stop at the Mountain Equipment Coop on your way through Vancouver.

 

If you want to take a scenic hike on one of the days you are up in BC, you might consider driving an hour and a half further up the road, and going to Joffre Lakes Provincial Park for a stroll up to Upper Joffre Lake. It is a short and crowded hike, but it is pretty cool.

 

There are hot springs in the area if you like that kind of thing, but those that are easy to get to can be either a mess, crowded, or both.

 

Consider a sidetrip out to the W. Coast of Vancouver Island. It is worth it.

-Matt

[gapertimmy]

Dru said:

the initial post for some reason reminds me of the "what is your current status" Strong Bad email.

 

we need a Strong Bad avatar on this board to answer silly questions

 

[AlpineK]

For a true taste of the NW hmmm.

 

Drive to Forks and inquire locally about good opportunities for, "tree sitting."

 

Or, while in Squamish, look for groups of drunk teens and convince them of the overwhelming superiority of America to Canada.

 

Have a nice trip

[PhilNC]

Thanks for your input. I'm looking mainly for sport, trad, and bouldering. We probably won't do any alpine routes. I've head great things about Index, and also heard there is some nice bouldering in Squamish also. I lead 5.11d/12a on sport, 5.10a/b on trad. A buddy of mine going too has lead 5.14.