Fejas Posted April 1, 2003 Posted April 1, 2003 Distel32 said: that sucks, when Yos and I were down there a month and a half or so ago someguy rapped off the end of his rope and broke his back, apparently fell from 50 ft, choppered out never heard anything else how do you supose you rapel off the end... losing the rope and not being able to catch it, I can see that... but come on off the end, ppshhhh... Quote
b-rock Posted April 1, 2003 Posted April 1, 2003 I was under the impression that it happens quite often... Why people tie knots in the ends... Quote
specialed Posted April 1, 2003 Posted April 1, 2003 Dru said: A ghetto blaster pumping out some Insane Clown Posse or similar at full volume is a good way to drive other people away from the route you plan on doing. That or stripping naked and chanting. Doesn't work I've tried it. Quote
Off_White Posted April 1, 2003 Posted April 1, 2003 sexual_chocolate said: I'm surprised you didn't tell him to get off. Especially if he didn't ask for permission. Hah, I was on top, first I knew of it this guy climbs into view on the route I'd just led. Guess I hadn't schooled my follower to beat on the bastards with a stick. Perhaps we were supposed to be stunned with awe at the ability and audacity of the mighty soloist, pissant B-grade Yabo wannabe that he was. Quote
fleblebleb Posted April 1, 2003 Posted April 1, 2003 erik said: fleblebleb said: If the people in these groups were actually climbing I'd not mind, but mostly they're just standing around. The basic course trips are the only ones that go beyond the 12 person limit (as far as I know...) and could just as well be carried out using a ladder on the side of a building. sprayin there eh flebebelebebe?? still there are many crags that fit this bill in the icicle without creating an issue. so still my point applies!! Sure, you're right, of course I walked away... but why should I have to? There were a couple of lines on the crag that I really wanted to climb, and while the mounties had a rope on them I didn't see anyone get up them without major thrashing and falling and whatnot - and most didn't get up at all. I figure if they want to meet up in large numbers like that they can go somewhere they won't be in anybody's way. Like the side of their clubhouse Quote
Fejas Posted April 1, 2003 Posted April 1, 2003 b-rock said: I was under the impression that it happens quite often... Why people tie knots in the ends... I understand it happens a lot, but why? do these people just not pay attention to the fact that they are runing out of rope? Or do they not look down and see that their rope isn't long enough? I know I'll just rapel to the end and jump, thats a great Idea... Quote
specialed Posted April 1, 2003 Posted April 1, 2003 Fejas said: b-rock said: I was under the impression that it happens quite often... Why people tie knots in the ends... I understand it happens a lot, but why? do these people just not pay attention to the fact that they are runing out of rope? Or do they not look down and see that their rope isn't long enough? I know I'll just rapel to the end and jump, thats a great Idea... One of my partners who is strong, smart, and competent did this exact thing. He was climbing in Zion and it had gotten dark. The guidebook said the rap was 55m but was actually like 70m. He rapped off two 60's and went right off the end. Took a bad fall and got fucked up. Could have been avoided by a little more prudence, but, shit, it happens to the best of us. Quote
Off_White Posted April 1, 2003 Posted April 1, 2003 Yup, remember Jim Madsen. That's why they're called "accidents." Quote
erik Posted April 1, 2003 Posted April 1, 2003 FLBEBEBEBEBEBEBE I BET IF YOU APPROACHED THE GROUP WITH SOME TACTIC THEY WOULD ALLOW YOU TO PASS.............. HYPOTHETICAL SITUATIONS ARE DUMB! Quote
Attitude Posted April 1, 2003 Posted April 1, 2003 Fejas said: b-rock said: I was under the impression that it happens quite often... Why people tie knots in the ends... I understand it happens a lot, but why? do these people just not pay attention to the fact that they are runing out of rope? Or do they not look down and see that their rope isn't long enough? I know I'll just rapel to the end and jump, thats a great Idea... On the North Face of Concord Tower, there are a wad of rap slings about half way up the second pitch. After topping out on the short third pitch, we rapped off the top assuming we would reach the slings. Wrong. My partner almost slid off the ends because he was looking at the terrain and not the tail of the ropes. The ropes ended 10 ft or so above the slings. Quote
sexual_chocolate Posted April 1, 2003 Posted April 1, 2003 specialed said: Fejas said: b-rock said: I was under the impression that it happens quite often... Why people tie knots in the ends... I understand it happens a lot, but why? do these people just not pay attention to the fact that they are runing out of rope? Or do they not look down and see that their rope isn't long enough? I know I'll just rapel to the end and jump, thats a great Idea... One of my partners who is strong, smart, and competent did this exact thing. He was climbing in Zion and it had gotten dark. The guidebook said the rap was 55m but was actually like 70m. He rapped off two 60's and went right off the end. Took a bad fall and got fucked up. Could have been avoided by a little more prudence, but, shit, it happens to the best of us. Same fella who ended up with his hand operated on? Good guy, that Eric. Quote
mattp Posted April 1, 2003 Posted April 1, 2003 Particularly if it is windy, and more often when the rock is not quite vertical, but in either case quite often when the cliff has lots of bushes or flakes or loose blocks, I often do not tie a knot in the ends of the rope before I throw it. In these situations I am frightened by the possibility that I could rappel right off the end, but I have already decided that I am more worried about the possibility of getting the rope stuck somewhere I don't want it to be stuck or pulling a block on my head. So I just rappel slowly and cautiously, ever mindful of the danger should I lose track of the end of the rope or lose control of the rappel. This is one of those scary situations that lead me to walk off a climb rather than rappel if there is a reasonable walk-off option. Quote
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