erik Posted March 17, 2003 Share Posted March 17, 2003 I HOPED YOU RE-AIDED THE BOLT LADDER AND NOT JUGGED IT..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted March 17, 2003 Share Posted March 17, 2003 wind sucked...coulda etched glass w/ me nipples through the t-shirt...following the ladder woulda been a bit faster w/ jumars. neat route, w/ nothing really hard but awesome exposure...the double rope rap off the top of the cave is super wild! also enjoyed the lead out of the cave ...didn't regret that bit being bolted at all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbw1966 Posted March 17, 2003 Share Posted March 17, 2003 Try Monkey Space next time for a challenge. Perhaps they replaced that manky spinner just before the cave. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TimL Posted March 17, 2003 Share Posted March 17, 2003 Did monkey space last year and all the bolts were nice and new. I thought the first 5.11a pitch was amazing. The second 5.11b pitch was not my cup of tea but I could see how some people like it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbw1966 Posted March 17, 2003 Share Posted March 17, 2003 That pitch coming out of the cave on Monkey Space is flat out terrifying. We only had one rope so not much choice but thrutch our way out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
specialed Posted March 17, 2003 Share Posted March 17, 2003 ivan said: climbed at smith too...popping my smith-cherry. still think l-worth is better but smith is a hell of a lot closer...fun time taking me wife's shitty mitsubishi through the passes...weather wasn't too bad but we decided to leave all our warm stuff in the packs at the bottom of monkey face and i got soaked as me partner inched up the bolt ladder on the pioneer route...kept looking out at the sunbreaks far to the west and cursing the wind for not getting the sun here faster all in all, not a bad place...can't imagine the crowds get any smaller come summer Dude Ivan not to diss but that cherry popping metaphor is just wrong. Actually I guess its a double metaphor since "cherry popping" is a metaphor in itself. But man thats just one expression that should be stricken from english vernacular. Anyway, glad you had a good time at smiff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted March 17, 2003 Share Posted March 17, 2003 how do you get off the top with only 1 rope aside from doing a tyrolean out of the mouth cave?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erik Posted March 17, 2003 Share Posted March 17, 2003 drul swing back into the ledge belay at the notch....there are other anchors there too Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted March 17, 2003 Share Posted March 17, 2003 i thought from nose to notch was more than half rope length though??? that's be some fun swinging though Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr_Flash_Amazing Posted March 17, 2003 Share Posted March 17, 2003 erik said: drul swing back into the ledge belay at the notch....there are other anchors there too Yeah, right, that'd totally work! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbw1966 Posted March 17, 2003 Share Posted March 17, 2003 You rappell off one rope and beg the people behind you to drop it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erik Posted March 17, 2003 Share Posted March 17, 2003 MY FRIEND ALLEN MESSED UP YEARS AGO AND HUNG THERE FOR A COUPLE HOURS CRYING AND SHIT.....THOUGHT HE WAS GOING TO DIE....THEN HE COMPOSED HIMSELF AND SAW ANCHORS WITHIN REACH.... I WISH I COULD HAVE BEEN THERE.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted March 18, 2003 Share Posted March 18, 2003 I climbed the most heinous death route on mt killyou lattitude 666 longitude 1313 5.14d M12 V420 WI8 A6 and my partner died. Since this is a new route we claim a speed ascent that is untouchable and valid. Although my partner died on the last pitch in an avalanche I summitted and claim victory. Cheers to me I luv myself. Any naysayers talk to mattp, he'll duke it out for me Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted March 18, 2003 Share Posted March 18, 2003 Oh yeah and it's a grade VIII with rated X since you have to free solo it all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
COL._Von_Spanker Posted March 18, 2003 Share Posted March 18, 2003 Cpt.Caveman said: I climbed the most heinous death route on mt killyou lattitude 666 longitude 1313 5.14d M12 V420 WI8 A6 and my partner died. Since this is a new route we claim a speed ascent that is untouchable and valid. Although my partner died on the last pitch in an avalanche I summitted and claim victory. Cheers to me I luv myself. Any naysayers talk to mattp, he'll duke it out for me Poor Miloshk. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
COL._Von_Spanker Posted March 18, 2003 Share Posted March 18, 2003 Poor Allen; he's not even here to defend himself. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted March 18, 2003 Share Posted March 18, 2003 Yes and if you go to repeat it - it is unrepeatable because the route you will take will not be the same. We were so good in our ascent you will likely see our ascent in the alpine magazine. Milosh god rest his soul. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TimL Posted March 18, 2003 Share Posted March 18, 2003 Sounds like Ray and Milosh did the first winter ascent of the North face of Mt. Triumph Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted March 18, 2003 Share Posted March 18, 2003 and they trained for it all with pickets and wands and plastics and helmets on Si. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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