Jump to content



Recommended Posts

My comment in another thread about Beckey's "combative ascent through vine maple" in the Big Four description got me to thinking..... OK, hold on while I think.....just a second......

A statement like that would definately cause me to consider another route now that I know what he was referring to. (I likened the vine maple to combing ones hair backwards. Definately not a good experience!) Are there any other phrases that struck you in his books? Offhand comments that should cause one to shiver with anticipation, or fear, or just plain avoid the route like a plauge?? Just wondering.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 34
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Here's one for the Canyuckers tongue.gif" border="0

"Although there were some good technical climbers north of the border, there was a general feeling when it came to big walls, they were dabbling in coloring books while Yosemite and other American climbers were painting masterpieces."

Statement about another party from Vancouver attempting to beat Fred to the 1st ascent of Slesse's NE Butt.

[ 11-06-2001: Message edited by: Cpt.Caveman ]

Link to comment
Share on other sites

We pushed upward through the jungle.When not forcing a way for ourselves and our heavy packs through festoons of alder, we were taunted by jabs of devil's club or the prickly needles of Engelmann spruce....

The Southern Pickets beckoned me twice more, though not until memories of our original experience with the approach had somewhat dimmed.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

One of my favorite Beckey statements is in the route description for Liberty Crack.

"Note that the last portion to the route base sometimes has plentiful dropped booty. A clever ploy is to bring a climbing slave rolleyes.gif" border="0 to return the approach gear back to the road."

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I enjoyed Fred's description of Spectator Spire in the southern guide:"...a climber-loosened rock crashed into the roof of a Buick parked below..."

"The ascent was made by mass tyrolean traverse..."

"A direct route has not been made, probably because of unsound rock."

FA: Who else?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Heard a rumor that Beckey insisted that the rack be carried outside the pack. When babes approached, Beckey would order that the rack be "jangled", thus increasing the chances of interrogation. I've found it to be more efficient to just buy them drinks.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

from the first ascent of Hozomeen, in reference to an earlier incident in a cafe where someone had spewed hot coffee on a waitress:

"We traveled late at night, stopping in cafes where we were not known."

Any Fred reference to "steep" or "steepening" should be taken very seriously.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

"Yes, but teflon doesn't stick!"

One of my favorites!

Here's some more:

"Good God, It's like a Buick dealership in here! Who let in the mocktards?"

"Oh fine. Be that way."

"Did you know "squeezin'" rhymes with "pleezin'?"

"El Torro, ho!"

"Oh my god, not another mountain!"

"Hey, a fish could live in there."

"Orbit is defined by various factors that DON'T include personal hygiene."

I forget the rest.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Create New...