Favorite Rainy Day Aid Routes???

[dalius]

In your experience, what are some of the better aid routes to be doing on a rainy day? (assuming that you're into something silly like that) I.e. those that stay drier than others due to overhangs or some other kind of coverage.

 

Index is what I had in mind, since it's the closest aiding I know of to Seattle, but if there's anything else you know of, give a shout.

[Attitude]

[COL._Von_Spanker]

city park stays dry in the rain.

[dalius]

COL._Von_Spanker said:

city park stays dry in the rain.

If that's your definition of dry, then I'd like to know what you think is wet! I've aided that in the rain and water was flowing like a river down my sleeves.

[DCramer]

Lambone’s recommendation of the Narrow Arrow Overhang is just about the perfect reply. All the routes to from NAO to Thin Fingers can be fairly fry, but the NAO is dry for the belayer, if he/she is right against the wall.

 

Don’t forget the Zipper roof; however, the free climbing to it may be wet. Clay (a free route) would probably be mostly dry as well.

 

Arch Enemy on Rattletale would also be dry.

 

High winds could change everything.

 

 

[COL._Von_Spanker]

I aided it in the rain and the crack was dry most of the way, though I got wet. Belayer go wet.

[dalius]

COL._Von_Spanker said:

I aided it in the rain and the crack was dry most of the way, though I got wet. Belayer go wet.

 

I guess it goes to show how much conditions can vary. Looks like it all depends on a)rain intensity and b)wind strength and direction.

[Jason_Martin]

When I did City Park in the rain the entire crack was flowing with water. The crack was nowhere near dry. And like another response here I ended up with enough water down my sleeves and in my shirt to have a miserable day.

 

Jason

[chelle]

Got any friends who kayak? Borrow a drytop with gaskets in the sleeves. It'll keep the rain from going up your arms.

[Dru]

pink nicros route in the gym (A0)

[chelle]

DCramer said:

Lambone’s recommendation of the Narrow Arrow Overhang is just about the perfect reply. All the routes to from NAO to Thin Fingers can be fairly fry, but the NAO is dry for the belayer, if he/she is right against the wall.

 

NAO is a fun route. Watched the guy I was belaying take some nice whippers under the roof.

[ScottP]

I haven't done it in the rain, but the Dark Crystal route might be worth a look. It climbs into and traverses an arch/roof of sorts, and if my memory serves me well, the belayer might be able to find a place to hunker down out of the wet, if you are going to be using one.

 

[dalius]

DCramer said:

Lambone’s recommendation of the Narrow Arrow Overhang is just about the perfect reply. All the routes to from NAO to Thin Fingers can be fairly fry, but the NAO is dry for the belayer, if he/she is right against the wall.

 

Am I right that Lambone recommended p2 of NAO? Is the lower pitch getting up to it dry and aidable? I'm checkin' out the '93 guidebook and it looks like a good way up would be Narrow Arrow Direct p1, C2, then under the roof and up Narrow Arrow Overhang p2, C2? I'm having a hard time trying to figure out where that pitch ends and what from there? Can you rap off, have to keep climbing, more aid? The '93 guidebook isn't exactly the clearest guidebook ever written!

[Lambone]

Yeah, it's hard to figure out which is which from the topo. The one I was refering to is the first pitch off the ground. Not far left of Thin Fingers. It goes up and heads left under an arching roof/flake. it is labled as as the C3 Variation in the guidebook. The anchors are about 15 feet up a straight seam above the arch. This pitch is mostly protcted from rain by the Large Roof above (The tru Narrow Arrow overhang?)

 

There is another pitch to the left which may be the Direct Narrow Arrow, I'm not sure. My partner did this one time in the rain and almost decked when he blew an Alien. We were buzzin from cheap beer...

 

The second pitch (above the C3 variation) looks fun. there are some fixed pins in a thin seam in a shalow corner. I want to do that sometime, but it's hard to tell where it goes above the roof from below.

 

Can you clarify any of this DCramer?

[glen]

We were buzzin from cheap beer...

 

Lambone, would you be referring to the phenomena known as "Aiding on Rainier"?

[glassgowkiss]

aid on rainy day???? check you head

[DCramer]

This wil probably confuse you more than if I said nothing.

 

The route Lambone refers to is the right variation start to NAO. The right variation and the Narrow Arrow Direct share the same start. Look for a pair of left and right facing corners that form a stem and end at a small ledge. There should be a new bolt in this section. From the ledge, the right variation moves up and a bit left to a thin crack which leads to the right side of a small roof. The crux as I remember is moving under this roof. The Direct continues straight up a left facing corner and ultimately the top of the NA itself. (Look for a couple of bolts, this pitch is now free) The left variation start to NAO starts up a left facing corner and then climbs directly up to the left side of the small roof mentioned in the right start description. (There are numerous bolts on this pitch) This pitch is 11b/c and if dry is a super fun free climb but as an aid lead is not half as fun as the right start. The first pitch ends at a small ledge about 15’ below the “overhang.” The second pitch ends shortly above the overhang. The anchor may be bad. The roof is 12b or C2. I am about 90% sure the 15’ below the overhang has been freed as well.

[bigwalling]

Daryl,

 

So how dry does Arch Enemy stay? Always wanted to try it. Looks pretty spicy because of the expando! IS that flake all nailing? Or can I get some cam hooks into it?

 

 

 

 

[DCramer]

Jake

 

I think that with the exception of the first 40' the route stays pretty dry. Not only does it look spicy; it is spicy! I haven't climbed it but several people have told me tales of falls with pro "zippering." The flakes are truly expando. Don't think I will be on it any time soon.

 

It is the most Yosemite looking aid route at the Town Walls and I have always thought that the route is very photogenic. So If anyone wants their picture taken, I'd be happy to rap of and snap some shots while they were on it.

 

For those looking for an FA

Directly below the first belay on the Goddess Kring route is a crack similar to City Park. As with City Park the crack doesn't reach the ground so so tricks and a drill will probably be needed to reach it. It does get a bit funky near the belay actually disappearing in places, but for the most part it is a pretty nice crack.

 

Darryl

 

 

[Greg_W]

I've heard that the first pitch of Iron Horse is a good clean aid and it stays fairly dry due to overhangs above.