Norsky Posted March 14, 2003 Posted March 14, 2003 I swear a hold was chipped or broken within the past year around the 3rd bolt. Anyone have info? Quote
allthumbs Posted March 14, 2003 Posted March 14, 2003 next time I'm there at night, I'm riggin the wall with dynamite Quote
Szyjakowski Posted March 14, 2003 Posted March 14, 2003 Norsky said: I swear a hold was chipped or broken within the past year around the 3rd bolt. Anyone have info? Someone was probably practicing pin placements in a snowstorm........... Quote
Dru Posted March 14, 2003 Posted March 14, 2003 i heard a hold was chipped on most routes there so what else is new Quote
Dr_Flash_Amazing Posted March 14, 2003 Posted March 14, 2003 It's bad form to chip more than what the first-ascensionist chipped. Â Exhibit A: The Cory Jones/Churning fiasco at Smith Quote
eric8 Posted March 14, 2003 Posted March 14, 2003 Moderators please edit dfa post to read "Its bad form to chip" Come on it would be really funny. Quote
Dr_Flash_Amazing Posted March 14, 2003 Posted March 14, 2003 It wouldn't be that funny. It is bad form to chip! Quote
Dru Posted March 14, 2003 Posted March 14, 2003 Dr_Flash_Amazing said: It's bad form to chip more than what the first-ascensionist chipped.  Exhibit A: The Cory Jones/Churning fiasco at Smith  havent heard the dirt. SPILL!!! Quote
ScottP Posted March 14, 2003 Posted March 14, 2003 Any time I go to Exit 38 I get culture shock. Quote
Dr_Flash_Amazing Posted March 14, 2003 Posted March 14, 2003 This was several years back. Â Right before the last crux on Churning, the main hard crux, at the second-to-last bolt (6th?), there's this good rest on a pretty big pocket/jug for your left hand, which some say was originally chipped, and some say was just a pretty good hold. Churning having one or two suspiciously uniform pockets on it anyway, the former would not be a big surprise. Anyway! Rumor has it that Cory's girlfriend was working on Churning but was having trouble, and so for her birthday, he drilled out the aforementioned jug a bit bigger, so she could cop a better rest and get the send. Â Now, Churning is an immensely popular route at Smith, as you may have noticed, and it's a very fun climb. Needless to say, many local climbers were not happy to hear that a Smith Rock icon had been retro-chipped, and Cory was essentially run out of town. 'Cause who would want to associate with the guy who chipped Churning? Exactly. That Cory was the chipper is not in doubt. The circumstances surrounding the chipping (For his girlfriend's birthday? C'mon!) have probably been embellished, as they sound a little too convenient and foofy to be true (fabricated, perhaps, to further denigrate Mr. Jones?), but there you have it. Â Although according to Alan Watts recently, Churning is apparently at least as hard as it used to be, so enough other choss must have come off over the years to balance out the new comfybucket. Apparently a natural pocket near the top has also crumbled recently, leaving a shitty pinch which gives more bang for one's entry-level 5.13 buck. Â There ya hav'it! Quote
eric8 Posted March 14, 2003 Posted March 14, 2003 Dr_Flash_Amazing said: It wouldn't be that funny. It is bad form to chip! Â opps guess i muffed that one. Quote
Dr_Flash_Amazing Posted March 14, 2003 Posted March 14, 2003 Serious muffage. In need of a Brazilian, to be sure. Quote
ScottP Posted March 14, 2003 Posted March 14, 2003 Dr_Flash_Amazing said: This was several years back. Â Right before the last crux on Churning, the main hard crux, at the second-to-last bolt (6th?), there's this good rest on a pretty big pocket/jug for your left hand, which some say (snip to save the pain of having to read it again) gives more bang for one's entry-level 5.13 buck. Â There ya hav'it! Â Â Â Is it just me, or is sportclimbing lore pretty inane? Quote
JoshK Posted March 14, 2003 Posted March 14, 2003 ScottP said: Dr_Flash_Amazing said: This was several years back. Â Right before the last crux on Churning, the main hard crux, at the second-to-last bolt (6th?), there's this good rest on a pretty big pocket/jug for your left hand, which some say (snip to save the pain of having to read it again) gives more bang for one's entry-level 5.13 buck. Â There ya hav'it! Â Â Â Is it just me, or is sportclimbing lore pretty inane? Â TONIGHT AT TEN! LIES, DECIET AND MURDER AT THE LOCAL CRAG! WHEN SPORT CLIMBING'S BEST TURN BAD! Quote
catbirdseat Posted March 14, 2003 Posted March 14, 2003 salbrecher said: Isn't Exit 38 an old rock quarry? No, some of it is natural rock walls, but some was the result of blasting for a railroad cut, some one hundred years ago. The weathering over the years has made it hard to tell exactly which faces were blasted and which were there already. Quote
Dru Posted March 14, 2003 Posted March 14, 2003 catbirdseat said: salbrecher said: Isn't Exit 38 an old rock quarry? No, some of it is natural rock walls, but some was the result of blasting for a railroad cut, some one hundred years ago. The weathering over the years has made it hard to tell exactly which faces were blasted and which were there already. Â its a safe bet the glued on river rocks weren't there originally. Quote
Juneriver Posted March 14, 2003 Posted March 14, 2003 Are there glue-ons at 38? I know it's chipped... but I haven't seen glue-ons. Â Quote
Dru Posted March 14, 2003 Posted March 14, 2003 i heard there are some at deception crags which is same deal. Quote
glassgowkiss Posted March 14, 2003 Posted March 14, 2003 (edited) as far as churning- the hold chipped wasn't the rest bucket, but the little pocket/crimp before you get there. there were definite marks. it used to be an ok hold and then snyde broke it. there was also a little foothold right at the bucket (6th bolt), which completly broke off and with the gas pocket crumbling made it into a real 7c+. on the other hand dime edge is not dime size anymore. and yes- sean olmsted (aka skippy) drilled 2 pockets back in 89. cory's churning chip job wasn't the single episode of his route "improvement" and i must say he was a shifty little twarp. also joe brooks and his ascent of bad man- where sudenly a 2 finger pocket (in the middle of the crux) apeared after his ascent. his new route/ abortion on the right side of agro wall was a total fuckup of established 12 a (highway to hell?). what do you expect though- blue warter (blew in water) ropes were paying him $1000 for every 5.14 he did, so for that much money most of the dirt bag climbers not only wouldn't hesitate to alter established routes, but they would let you shelaque a big syrup load down the throat at the back of hidden forest cave Edited March 14, 2003 by glassgowkiss Quote
iain Posted March 14, 2003 Posted March 14, 2003 hey dru some canuck is up in aggro gully lately working some 14c linkup with villian. crazy canucks! Quote
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.