RuMR Posted March 14, 2003 Share Posted March 14, 2003 (edited) Dr_Flash_Amazing said: This was several years back. Right before the last crux on Churning, the main hard crux, at the second-to-last bolt (6th?), there's this good rest on a pretty big pocket/jug for your left hand, which some say was originally chipped, and some say was just a pretty good hold. Churning having one or two suspiciously uniform pockets on it anyway, the former would not be a big surprise. Anyway! Rumor has it that Cory's girlfriend was working on Churning but was having trouble, and so for her birthday, he drilled out the aforementioned jug a bit bigger, so she could cop a better rest and get the send. Now, Churning is an immensely popular route at Smith, as you may have noticed, and it's a very fun climb. Needless to say, many local climbers were not happy to hear that a Smith Rock icon had been retro-chipped, and Cory was essentially run out of town. 'Cause who would want to associate with the guy who chipped Churning? Exactly. That Cory was the chipper is not in doubt. The circumstances surrounding the chipping (For his girlfriend's birthday? C'mon!) have probably been embellished, as they sound a little too convenient and foofy to be true (fabricated, perhaps, to further denigrate Mr. Jones?), but there you have it. Although according to Alan Watts recently, Churning is apparently at least as hard as it used to be, so enough other choss must have come off over the years to balance out the new comfybucket. Apparently a natural pocket near the top has also crumbled recently, leaving a shitty pinch which gives more bang for one's entry-level 5.13 buck. There ya hav'it! Churning is indeed an evolving living route!! BAWAHAHAHAHA Used to be that there was a giganto foot ledge from which to recompose yourself at the sixth bolt while hanging onto a juggo-hold...Chris Schneider broke off the foothold while he and shelly presson were working the route...CS didn't like SP and proceeded to smash said foothold into powder before it could get glued back on. Foothold helped a ton if you were short (like shelly)...route is actually much better now that the thing is gone...replaces a stance w/ a quik shake and then keep on keeping on until the seventh and then ultimate redpoint satisfaction!!! BAWAHHAHAHAHAHA I think the number of fingers crammed into the holds are artificially deepening the pockets and comfortizing them...you almost need a fricken Number-being-Served to get on that route... Check this story out w/ CrazyPolishedNob! I think he was there w/ a group of us when the schnyde lost it...Man, he was a tool!! Edited March 14, 2003 by RuMR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
COL._Von_Spanker Posted March 14, 2003 Share Posted March 14, 2003 Juneriver said: Are there glue-ons at 38? I know it's chipped... but I haven't seen glue-ons. Shit yeah there are glue on's. That one route on the road cut with the roof and the hanging chain has a stack of glued holds to pull over the roof. It's like three stacked together with epoxy. I think the route is overture; or it's an extension on overture. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr_Flash_Amazing Posted March 14, 2003 Share Posted March 14, 2003 RuMR said: Dr_Flash_Amazing said: This was several years back. Right before the last crux on Churning, the main hard crux, at the second-to-last bolt (6th?), there's this good rest on a pretty big pocket/jug for your left hand, which some say was originally chipped, and some say was just a pretty good hold. Churning having one or two suspiciously uniform pockets on it anyway, the former would not be a big surprise. Anyway! Rumor has it that Cory's girlfriend was working on Churning but was having trouble, and so for her birthday, he drilled out the aforementioned jug a bit bigger, so she could cop a better rest and get the send. Now, Churning is an immensely popular route at Smith, as you may have noticed, and it's a very fun climb. Needless to say, many local climbers were not happy to hear that a Smith Rock icon had been retro-chipped, and Cory was essentially run out of town. 'Cause who would want to associate with the guy who chipped Churning? Exactly. That Cory was the chipper is not in doubt. The circumstances surrounding the chipping (For his girlfriend's birthday? C'mon!) have probably been embellished, as they sound a little too convenient and foofy to be true (fabricated, perhaps, to further denigrate Mr. Jones?), but there you have it. Although according to Alan Watts recently, Churning is apparently at least as hard as it used to be, so enough other choss must have come off over the years to balance out the new comfybucket. Apparently a natural pocket near the top has also crumbled recently, leaving a shitty pinch which gives more bang for one's entry-level 5.13 buck. There ya hav'it! Churning is indeed an evolving living route!! BAWAHAHAHAHA Used to be that there was a giganto foot ledge from which to recompose yourself at the sixth bolt while hanging onto a juggo-hold...Chris Schneider broke off the foothold while he and shelly presson were working the route...CS didn't like SP and proceeded to smash said foothold into powder before it could get glued back on. Foothold helped a ton if you were short (like shelly)...route is actually much better now that the thing is gone...replaces a stance w/ a quik shake and then keep on keeping on until the seventh and then ultimate redpoint satisfaction!!! BAWAHHAHAHAHAHA I think the number of fingers crammed into the holds are artificially deepening the pockets and comfortizing them...you almost need a fricken Number-being-Served to get on that route... Check this story out w/ CrazyPolishedNob! I think he was there w/ a group of us when the schnyde lost it...Man, he was a tool!! Sweet! That story's almost as better than the Cory Jones one! It's cool that the dude smashed the big foothold up. Glued-on holds are usually fairly ugly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr_Flash_Amazing Posted March 14, 2003 Share Posted March 14, 2003 iain said: as my friend says ... Friend. Psh, yeah right, like, you wish! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iain Posted March 14, 2003 Share Posted March 14, 2003 I'll be sure to dump some choss on your noggin as I run the christian bros traverse on a crowded weekend Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr_Flash_Amazing Posted March 14, 2003 Share Posted March 14, 2003 Good luck. You think DFA hangs around by all that trad climbing crap and easy slabs? Ha! Not bloody likely! You'll have to hurl your precious choss across great distances to maim the wily Dr. Flash Amazing! Bwa HA ha ha ha HAAAAA! Ehhh ... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iain Posted March 14, 2003 Share Posted March 14, 2003 don't worry I'm going to check out the latest lawson 5.8 multipitch testpiece over yonder monkeyface. good choss to be had. all in the name of contributing to the slow heat death of the universe. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr_Flash_Amazing Posted March 14, 2003 Share Posted March 14, 2003 Word on the street (i.e. smithrock.com) is wear your lid for that rig. Sounds like something of a pile. What you should really check out is Lawson's water groove route over there, either on Kiss of the Lepers or on an adjacent formation. It looks like the coolest damn thing. Comes in at .10c or something. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iain Posted March 14, 2003 Share Posted March 14, 2003 "somewhere over on Kiss of the Lepers" = fun times! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Norsky Posted March 15, 2003 Author Share Posted March 15, 2003 glassgowkiss said: as far as churning- the hold chipped wasn't the rest bucket, but the little pocket/crimp before you get there. there were definite marks. it used to be an ok hold and then snyde broke it. there was also a little foothold right at the bucket (6th bolt), which completly broke off and with the gas pocket crumbling made it into a real 7c+. on the other hand dime edge is not dime size anymore. and yes- sean olmsted (aka skippy) drilled 2 pockets back in 89. cory's churning chip job wasn't the single episode of his route "improvement" and i must say he was a shifty little twarp. also joe brooks and his ascent of bad man- where sudenly a 2 finger pocket (in the middle of the crux) apeared after his ascent. his new route/ abortion on the right side of agro wall was a total fuckup of established 12 a (highway to hell?). what do you expect though- blue warter (blew in water) ropes were paying him $1000 for every 5.14 he did, so for that much money most of the dirt bag climbers not only wouldn't hesitate to alter established routes, but they would let you shelaque a big syrup load down the throat at the back of hidden forest cave I love the Smith dirt! I had no Idea my original post would elicit so little concerning my question, and so much Smith Lore. Please DFA, et al, give me more! What did Scott Franklin do to Scarface? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cracked Posted March 15, 2003 Share Posted March 15, 2003 Overrated it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iain Posted March 15, 2003 Share Posted March 15, 2003 and word is the Bauman bros chipped Cinnamon Slab back in the 60's do tell! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cracked Posted March 15, 2003 Share Posted March 15, 2003 What about the (I think) glued on head-size boulder on Spiderman? That's a bit of a blemish. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted March 15, 2003 Share Posted March 15, 2003 cracked said: glued on with guano.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glassgowkiss Posted March 15, 2003 Share Posted March 15, 2003 (edited) Norsky said: I love the Smith dirt! I had no Idea my original post would elicit so little concerning my question, and so much Smith Lore. Please DFA, et al, give me more! What did Scott Franklin do to Scarface? what does exit 38 and smith have in common? they are both choss piles. unlike smith located in sunny and usually warm central oregon, exit 38 is a drury overrated choss heap overgrown by moss and overrun by seattle wannabe wankers. so who gives a flying fuck if some hold was chipped or broke off? as far as scar face- darius and scott ripped a big flake (near where you climb onto the slab) with hydraulic car jack, hence the name. about rating of the route- according to scott the mono pocket used to be much smaller-one finger-one digit. tomas hunzeker working this thing to the ground (actually it was a route, that ended his climbing career, as well as his psyho druggy wife) brushed the fuck out of it, creating almost a 2 finger deal. when scott did it a few years later he stated it wasn't 8b+ anymore. in one of the old, old "rotpunkt" magazines (german) there was a series of photos with franklin wearing pink lycra doing the crux. there was a close-up of the one finger pocket and you can tell it was much smaller back in '89. Edited March 15, 2003 by glassgowkiss Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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