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testing cams


whirlwind

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whrilwind

 

certainly it may be damaged, but it is still quite useable.

 

i cant find the link, but chris harmston did testing on gear that fell off el cap. i think that like 95% of the gear with no visable damage passed all the testing. and some piece with visable damage still perfored well.

 

if the action of the cam and and the visual inspection are okay, i personally would still use.

 

anyone whos seen my #5 camalot will atest to that!

 

though go off what you personally feel is safe.

 

send it to bd or metolious

 

 

 

 

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erik said:

i cant find the link, but chris harmston did testing on gear that fell off el cap. i think that like 95% of the gear with no visable damage passed all the testing. and some piece with visable damage still perfored well.

 

My memory of those results is signifigantly different.

 

What I think they concluded is that gear with no visible damge passed the three sigma rating still. In other words it was as good as a batch of new gear.

 

This is better news than what erik said! laugh.gif

 

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Who would get rid of a #5 cam for any reason other than that it fell apart?

I've found some ratty cams and have replaced their triggers, but other than that I have no info on their history. I'm comfortable with visual inspections and bounce tests.

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it is true that a cam that is very broken can be used for aid climbing. i am often using cams with only three or two pieces remaining on the head and they are good to stand on in aid when you are doing simple moves and have no chance of falling and the cam is placed properly and tight in a crack. i find they work well and should not be throwgn away at all.

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One thing I like to do when I drop a cam from three pitches up is to switch it into someone else's rack when they are not looking. That way they don't miss their cam and you have a good chance that their's is in better shape.

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Norsky said:

Bird, I like your thinking. I have pulled this one on my unsuspecting dynamic duo friends on several occasions.

 

Yeah, the people I hang with always try to do that shit with me. It never works since their cams are all fucked up from them hangdoggin all the time. I can tell its theirs right away.

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