Dr_Flash_Amazing Posted February 26, 2003 Share Posted February 26, 2003 Hello, tradsters - The Doctor has been pondering (just pondering, mind you) the possibility of putting a trad rack together. You know, so Dwayner and that weasel Pope will quit pushing the Doctor down in the sandbox and stealing his lunch money, all the while cackling "tights-wearing sport weenie!" So, in doing some preliminary browsing, DFA stumbled upon ABC Huevos, which are dirty cheap, and Metolius Curve Nuts, which seem nifty. Does anyone have any experience with and thus thoughts about the Huevos vs. other more expensive and well-known nuts? And also about the Curve Nuts? OK, thanks in advance for what will surely be a ton of very helpful information. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted February 26, 2003 Share Posted February 26, 2003 huevos are a stopper ripoff i believe. dunno any more about em. all those nuts work the same metoolius curve nuts are kinda cool but i have heard get stuck more easily like most super curvy nuts do. i also heard they arent as good as hb offsets for weird flared pin scars and suchlike but maybe on tuff they are ok. you planning to fix a bunch on e face monkey face for a few weeks? cause i heard you use like triples of #3-5 RP for that so you better buy some. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chucK Posted February 26, 2003 Share Posted February 26, 2003 Hexes are the BOMB at Smith dude Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr_Flash_Amazing Posted February 26, 2003 Author Share Posted February 26, 2003 Thx for the beta! Yeah, East Face, RPs, big project, Alan Watts to belay, check the mags next month, etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr_Flash_Amazing Posted February 26, 2003 Author Share Posted February 26, 2003 chucK said: Hexes are the BOMB at Smith dude Oh, yes, there will be no rack without Hexes. Or maybe them Metolius hex jobbies. Do BD Hexes only come wired now? Anybody used the Metolius ones? Any advice on cheapo cams vs. their pricier brethren? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
allthumbs Posted February 26, 2003 Share Posted February 26, 2003 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iain Posted February 26, 2003 Share Posted February 26, 2003 I say get any ol' nuts that are on sale and put money into good cams and double the cams w/ mid-range hexs, which you will hardly ever want to use anyways once the cams arrive. I have the WC rocks w/ a scattering of metolius curves and like them both. the colors on heuvos and older dmm wallnuts are a nice touch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iain Posted February 26, 2003 Share Posted February 26, 2003 bd only sells wired hexs now but the uncorded ones are available all over the place for cheap. (try gearexpress.com under their "blowouts" section) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vegetablebelay Posted February 26, 2003 Share Posted February 26, 2003 Or try here! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chucK Posted February 26, 2003 Share Posted February 26, 2003 Dr_Flash_Amazing said: Any advice on cheapo cams vs. their pricier brethren? If you climb a lot with your rack you are going to become very attached to it. If you buy the good stuff (Camalots, Aliens, TCU's, Friends), over the course of many, many ascents the extra pennies/ascent you spend will be recouped handsomely by the warm feelings of satisfaction and security you will feel using the best sh*t. Conversely, if you buy "good enough" gear, you will get a dig in your ribs everytime you pull those babies out. Check this out too. If you're really tradding just to please Dwayner and Pope, then you probably won't be doing it very long. In that case disregard the above advice and minimize your monetary exposure by purchasing the cheapest shite possible. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eric8 Posted February 26, 2003 Share Posted February 26, 2003 I'll second the notion to get whatever nuts you can get a deal on. I have a set of Metolius curved nuts and some regular black diamond stopper. I a bomber nut is generally bomber whether or not its curved. For cams you can save money by buying forged friends in the larger sizes like 3,4. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr_Flash_Amazing Posted February 26, 2003 Author Share Posted February 26, 2003 Thanks, y'all. Good point about cheap nuts and good cams. DFA is usually of the belief that you get what you pay for (even though you usually have to pay too much for it), and would probably spring for the spendier swag, but you never know, so he had to ask. And a perusal of Metolius' web site reveals no more slung hex things either, only cables. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Attitude Posted February 26, 2003 Share Posted February 26, 2003 Climbing reviews your nuts. I own a set of Huevos (4-12) and they work fine. I've also used BDs and can't tell the difference. You can get a full set (1-13) from gearexpress.com for $60. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoshK Posted February 26, 2003 Share Posted February 26, 2003 what does everybody dislike the wired hexes for? I've actually grown to like them more personally. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Winter Posted February 26, 2003 Share Posted February 26, 2003 DFA if you're gonna get hexes, Climbaxe sells slung Camp hexes which are cheaper and cooler than the wired BD hexes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chucK Posted February 26, 2003 Share Posted February 26, 2003 Get the darkblue Tri-cam (#2??) for a pocket on the first pitch of Sky Ridge. Yeah, and I sorta like those wired hexes now too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Winter Posted February 26, 2003 Share Posted February 26, 2003 Speaking of Sky Ridge ... is there any pro before those first anchors? I got to the notch ... then climbed the ridge with a couple of gingerly face moves and I was at the first anchors like 100' off the deck with no pro. What I miss? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chucK Posted February 26, 2003 Share Posted February 26, 2003 Some bolts and a #2? blue tricam pocket. Also, a big outcrop to sling right when you leave the ridge to climb up the face. There was a fat bolt at that spot when I climbed it (many years ago) but no hanger. Maybe there's a hanger there now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbw1966 Posted February 27, 2003 Share Posted February 27, 2003 I'm surprised no one has mentioned them, but I have a set of the Kong stoppers and love them. Cheap, bomber and the new ones are color coded. What I also suggest is climbing with people who have different stoppers on their racks. I have another set of stoppers (DMM Wallnuts) that I picked up after using a buddies. They are the bomb. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chucK Posted February 27, 2003 Share Posted February 27, 2003 Ditto on the DMM Wallnuts. I picked up one on Outer Space the same size as the #7 WC. It's my favorite stopper . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr_Flash_Amazing Posted February 27, 2003 Author Share Posted February 27, 2003 The Kongs are probably the same as the ABCs, yeah? Aren't they all from the same Korean slave-labor manufacturing plant? Kong, CAMP, ABC, and Climb-Axe? Oh, and after scouring the 'net yesterday for slung hexes, the WC Rockcentrics came up. Anybody have any exp. with those? Also, what's the beef with wired hexes? DFA would assume the cable gets in the way in some placements? Or is it 'cause the cable levers them out of placements? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr_Flash_Amazing Posted February 27, 2003 Author Share Posted February 27, 2003 chucK said: Ditto on the DMM Wallnuts. I picked up one on Outer Space the same size as the #7 WC. It's my favorite stopper . Cool. The Wallnuts were one of the less pricey nuts out there, if the Doctor recalls correctly. Duly noted. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erik Posted February 27, 2003 Share Posted February 27, 2003 Dr_Flash_Amazing said: Also, what's the beef with wired hexes? DFA would assume the cable gets in the way in some placements? Or is it 'cause the cable levers them out of placements? yes and yes and it adds more weight Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iain Posted February 27, 2003 Share Posted February 27, 2003 I end up placing the smaller wired sizes as nuts a lot of the time and the swaged cables are not nearly as strong (they put in a lot more flex than the typical nut cable). I only have the small gold one (#3?) and a larger (#7?) wired. the latter has been useful in places where you can reach up and slot it behind stuff. you could not do this with a corded hex, but then again you're not exactly placing gear in the best fashion when you are reaching up and blindly slotting things. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snoboy Posted February 27, 2003 Share Posted February 27, 2003 (edited) I've always climbed with wallnuts. I supplement with met curveswhen I want more than one set. I think whatever nuts you own will be your faves. Just stay away from anything really weird. You get used to the peculiarities of each shape. Cams- buy the best. Don't bother with hexes unless you are broke or trying to save weight (ie. alpine). Best to me eqauls small aliens, midsize metolious, and large camalots. I think large cams are the place to save money if you need to. There really isn't much diff in a big camalot and a big forged friend. When you are trying to dink in a little placement you will be blessing the guy who invented aliens/tcus though. YMMV. Oh yeah, one more thing. BUY SETS. Don't mix and match! Edited February 27, 2003 by snoboy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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