best of cc.com "Forgotten" Alpine Ice Cascade Testpieces (FACTs)

[kukuzka1]

http://library.alpineclubofcanada.ca:8009/book-acc.php?id=CAJ073-1-1990#page/80

 

Here is a link to the story, was actually in December not February and the route is called Surrogate Panama

http://library.alpineclubofcanada.ca:8009/book-acc.php?id=CAJ073-1-1990

[Carbonj]

We were at base of dragontail when Tim Wilson and John came down after doing that route and Tim said it was pretty cool, weird thing was one of them seemed to be telemarking with ramer bindings. Also in 88 or 89 mike martin and I did a similar climb of N ridge of stuart, left side of lower ridge to notch then to the gendarme out on the NE face, it was late march so not winter,but winter conditions it snowed a foot that night after the climb, cool avalanches.

[Kyle M]

Thanks @kukuzka1 and @Carbonj for your input! I'll add these to the list on my blog.

[JasonG]

Wow, those accounts by Mr. Davis were great!

[kukuzka1]

I do not know exactly where their route goes but I am guessing this is the aprox line as he mentions in the post when they emerged onto the north ridge they were surprised they missed the access gully to the upper north ridge and they were close to the gendarme. I think I have seen photo with some steep good ice in the lower ridge. PHOTO CREDIT ED COOPER   Also at the base of the gendarme they finished on the NE face

Edited September 3, 2020 by kukuzka1
Photo credit

[kukuzka1]

On 8/27/2020 at 9:36 AM, Carbonj said:

Also in 88 or 89 mike martin and I did a similar climb of N ridge of stuart, left side of lower ridge to notch then to the gendarme out on the NE face

So you guys climbed left of the lower north ridge start?

[Carbonj]

Yep from what I remember, went up Ice Cliff glacier,up gully to notch on N ridge to gendarme then left up NE face. Everything was plastered with snice, the cruxes were the ridge snow covered rock and the top of NE face digging thru the cornice. The coolest part of the climb for me was when I was leading on the ridge deeply engrossed in little if any pro and huge shadow came over me, looking up I was staring at the largest and very close golden eagle, I could look right in those eyes don't know who was more surprised thought I was gonna get nailed by big chunk of rock or ice.

[glassgowkiss]

"Intravenous"- someone should do a direct finish

For Aint over motherfuckers I can loan warthogs to whoever wants to repeat that rig. 

Big prize in the range should be NE face of Triumph 

Edited November 25, 2020 by glassgowkiss