[TR] Vesper Peak - No Colusion with the Russian on Ragged Edge 07/27/2018

[pup_on_the_mountain]

Trip: Vesper Peak - No Colusion with the Russian on Ragged Edge

Trip Date: 07/27/2018

Trip Report:

 

OlegV (The Russian) and I climbed Ragged Edge (Original start) on Vesper Peak Friday. Thanks a lot to Darin and Gene for putting up such an enjoyable route in a truly splendid setting. They are wonderful, tremendous, people!

 

We had debated whether to bring ice axe and crampons. Our man Tom came to us and emailed us saying he had gone in there in June, and there was still a lot of snow. Tons of snow in June, folks! So we would want to take the axe and pons. But the Russian was very powerful in their assertion that there would be no snow, and that we'd want to go light. Now, my sources are very good people, and I trust my sources very much, but I can say this for sure. I didn't see why there would* be any snow up there!
 

But the Russian tore his old trail running shoe on the approach. SAD! (image by the Russian)

 

When we got to the lake in the bowl below Sperry and Vesper on Thursday, it was still covered with snow. There was just about one small patch of dry flat ground by the side of Vesper creek for us to bivy (image by the Russian):

We were worried we'd be screwed by the snow. Lots of snow up there still, folks! Lots of it! But we had made the best approach from the trailhead - of all time! No one before us has made such a tremendous approach!!

*I wanted to make a small clarification about my previous statement. I meant to say "I didn't see why there wouldn't be any snow up there". That should clear it all up, folks.

I was in my Nepal Evos (don't have a lighter shoe that's as comfy ).That came in handy the next day to deal with the snow. We followed the trail up the East shoulder of Vesper. Where we wanted to cut across to the gap, the snow angle was not too bad. I cut steps, and the Russian was able to follow just fine.

 

Luckily, the North side was all snow free! Who would've known?! Nobody knew, folks, nobody knew! There was just a small patch on the approach ledge, which we bypassed easily:

 

Since we wasted enough time dealing with the snow, we decided to go for the original start as soon as we came up to it. The climb was a lot of fun. Thanks much for the bolts and the fixed anchors - just at the right places! And we could get a bunch of gear in otherwise. Here are some pics from the climb:

 

The last pitch, with Copper Lake in the background:

 

(At) The Summit with the Russian. Notice the Russian looks a lot more calm, composed, and in control !

 

The Russian made a bunch of video recordings. Who would record their partner? SAD! But in all the recordings, my voice is there in only one of them!

It was great to get my fat ass up in the hills again after two years. But trust me folks, it's all a witch hunt, and there was no collusion with the Russian! Your favorite CC.com-er has done nothing wrong!

We took our time lingering in the 'pine (wanted to avoid traffic driving back to Portland). But then we got delayed for almost an hour by construction on I-5. SAD! The 24-hr espresso drive-thru in Everett, and lots of fun conversation with the Russian kept me awake for the drive home. Among other things, we talked about obesity, epics in the mountains, Dan Smith, Maria Butina, etc.

But there was no colusion!
 

Gear Notes:
We brought too much, placed much. Leave the axe and pons at home.

Approach Notes:
The 2.2 miles of dirt road to the trailhead (from the Mountain Loop Highway) is in bad shape for compact cars. I had to be super careful not to bottom out my Impreza! A highe(er) clearance vehicle is recommended.

Edited July 30, 2018 by pup_on_the_mountain

[OlegV]

United we stand, divided we fall

[JasonG]

This TR is filled with truth and greatness!

[NikiY]

Which Dan Smith? Not the Dan Smith? https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dan_Smith_Will_Teach_You_Guitar

[pup_on_the_mountain]

I meant @DPS, a CC.com veteran and common climbing partner and friend of ours. He will teach you air guitar .

@JasonG, this TR is filled with winning! So much winning that we got tired of it. I told the Russian to "Stop it! I can't take it any more!" 

[JasonG]

3 minutes ago, pup_on_the_mountain said:

this TR is filled with winning

Some might say you guys were Bi-Winning @pup_on_the_mountain@OlegV. 

[Rad]

Love it! I'm glad you and your small hands could make it to the top.

I think there must be a nuclear reactor on the N Face of Vesper because that aspect melts out faster than the E slopes of the mtn, as evidenced by your photos and my experience and the fact that climate change is a liberal hoax perpetrated by fake media.

[ivan]

oleg, you're looking good - don't appear tired of winning yet at all - you going to get in on this mostly-russian j'berg climb?

[OlegV]

56 minutes ago, ivan said:

oleg, you're looking good - don't appear tired of winning yet at all - you going to get in on this mostly-russian j'berg climb?

I am just happy Bala led the last crappy pitch and I was enjoying a view of the North face 

[OlegV]

Few more pictures.  Bala chopping steps and following a fun pitch 4

[DPS]

I want to go on record as having only served briefly on the periphery of this campaign.  Additionally, I was only friends with that young Russian woman.  NO COLLUSION!

[DPS]

I want to go on record as having only served briefly on the periphery of this campaign.  Additionally, I was only friends with that young Russian woman.