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NikiY

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Everything posted by NikiY

  1. I'm selling a pair of Petzl Dartwin crampons. They are close to 10 years old and need to be sharpened a bit. I'm asking for $75. I'm in Seattle.
  2. I'm selling a pair of Black Diamond Reactor ice tools. These are close to 10 years old. The picks should probably be replaced but they are otherwise in good condition for their age. I'm asking $150 for the pair. I'm in Seattle.
  3. https://www.myballard.com/2019/04/29/ascent-outdoors-and-ascent-cycles-now-closed/
  4. I visited Seattle in 2013 to climb Rainier with a friend. During the climb my friend's face got pretty sunburnt and he ended up with some serious racoon-face. When we got back to Seattle we stopped in at Second Ascent and the guy behind the counter also had a pretty serious goggle tan. They made eye contact and silently nodded at each other. Since then I have moved to Seattle and spent an obscene amount of money at Second Ascent. I'll really miss having a gear shop just a short bike ride away staffed by people who really live climbing and skiing.
  5. More info: https://www.seattletimes.com/life/outdoors/sudden-closure-of-outdoors-retailer-ascent-outdoors-and-ascent-cycles-shocks-employees-and-customers/ Apparently it was due to financial issues. They will be missed for sure! I hope the employees manage to land on their feet.
  6. Partner for Mount Hood May 3rd-5th

    What route? Are you planning on bringing skis?
  7. Looks like archive.org got a snapshot of the album: https://web.archive.org/web/20121120162948/http://outdoors.webshots.com/album/582299949YUiFTg
  8. Climbing Rainier with RMI(5 day)

    Sorry, should have been more specific. They may teach you stuff, but that is not their *goal*. This is probably true of most guides taking people up the DC though. Again, this is hearsay. I don't have any personal experience. Edit: Put another way, there are people who hire guides because they want to become more competent climbers, and there are people who hire guides because they want to get to the top. From what I have heard, RMI caters to the latter. I don't think there is anything wrong with that, but it's something to keep in mind depending on what your expectations are.
  9. Climbing Rainier with RMI(5 day)

    Probably not, especially July/August. There is only one steep section (pan face) and it will almost certainly be melted out by then. If they are going to be providing you with water I would assume that it has been treated in some form or another. Additionally their equipment list on their website does not include a filter. No personal experience with RMI, but I've heard that their groups are very large and that their goal is just to get you up and down the mountain, not to teach you anything.
  10. Looking for specific harness...

    Fortunately I noticed it immediately and was able to just pull it out with minimal damage to my hair! I try to tuck my hair into my shirt these days...
  11. Climbing Rainier with RMI(5 day)

    I'd ditch the water filter. Once you get above snowline the only source of water is melting snow, at that point you may as well just boil it. Also the guides will likely take care of that for you. The guides also typically take care of tents/shelters and will likely discourage you from bringing your own tent. In mid to late summer the snowline could be as high as 8000ft (parking lot is at 5400ft) so depending on how comfortable your mountaineering boots are for hiking on trails you might want to consider some lightweight approach shoes. Don't under-estimate how hot and sunny it will get. I'd recommend a sunshirt, sunhat, thin gloves and good sunscreen. Cover up as much skin as possible and apply sunscreen to the rest frequently. A sunhat that you can fit under a helmet (I have an OR sun runner hat) is a huge plus.
  12. Looking for specific harness...

    I am a lightweight someone with long flowing hair* and I extend my rappel because of that. My hair dangles down close to my waist, and well past a belay device clipped to the belay loop, especially when rappelling (due to change in posture). When I extend it, my rappel device is about eye level and further away from my body. My hair is actually further away from the device this way. * I typically braid my hair which helps, but the end of the braid can (and has) gotten stuck in a belay device before.
  13. Gold Bar dry? Still snow?

    I can't comment on Gold Bar, but I climbed at Index last weekend and it was mostly dry. Climbed at GNS and the Inner walls. There was a good amount of snow on the ground at the Inner walls and the top of toxic shock was wet (but then again, when isn't it wet). Otherwise everything I climbed was dry.
  14. What hapened with the site?

    I think the problem is http vs. https. When I try to access the site via http it won't load.
  15. Trip: Chair Peak - NE Buttress Trip Date: 01/27/2019 Trip Report: After four failed attempts I finally managed to climb the NE Buttress of Chair Peak with @JonParker. Jon posted in the climbing partners forum looking for someone to do Chair Peak with on Sunday January 27th. I have been trying (and failing) to climb this mountain since I moved to Seattle 3.5 years ago so I messaged him immediate. With the low-moderate avy forecast and good weather predicted we left Seattle fairly early in the hopes of being the first group at the trailhead. Our plan worked and after about 2.5 hours of snowshoeing we made it to the base of Chair Peak. We noticed what looked like some wind loaded snow on the left above the ice pitch, but we reasoned that it would be avoidable as long as we stayed climbers right. We partially geared up and Jon suggested that we solo up the start of the S-couloir to this anchor maybe about a 1/3 of the way up. It looked like a decent spot to start the route so I agreed and headed up. The climbing up to it was easy snow - except for the very last move which was a fairly airy step on unconsolidated snow and made getting to the anchor a bit thought-provoking. Of course that nice flat looking spot with the anchor was anything but flat, so we faffed about with tangled ropes as Jon got ready to lead the first pitch. The rest of the S-couloir was a mix of snow and ice, with one or two mixed moves. Jon managed to get in a nut and two screws (one of which I pulled straight out, the other one felt more solid however). I took the next pitch which was pure snow climbing. I headed up to a group of trees and slung two of them for pro and then continued up to a fixed anchor on rock and belayed Jon up. We still had about 60 meters before the ice pitch so Jon again took the lead, placing a couple of nuts and belaying me off a picket just below the ice pitch. I headed up the ice which was very soft and sun baked. It made for really easy sticks but I had to dig 6-8 inches to get to ice solid enough to hold a screw. Above the ice it was just a straight-forward wallow up moderately steep snow until I ran out of rope and built an anchor out of a picket and my ice ax. At this point the party that started after us caught up and I got to chat with Scott while belaying Jon up. Jon led up the final stretch of snow until he got to a nice flat spot to belay from. We unroped here and soloed up to the true summit. Gear Notes: Pickets, ice screws, nuts Approach Notes: Source lake winter trail, floatation recommended.
  16. Banks lake ice this weekend

    I'll be there this weekend with my partner. I'm a solid WI3 leader so you'll likely see me on the easier stuff. Probably going to go to the devil's punch bowl on Saturday. I'm usually in a green jacket or blue puffy, the old orange Petzl Sirocco helmet and I have long braids. If you see me feel free to say hi!
  17. Chair NEB 1/26 or 1/27

    PMed you.
  18. Thanks for sharing! I know it can be hard to share a trip report that ended in a rescue but it's really valuable to the community. Glad you got off the mountain safely.
  19. I met a guy in the Alpental backcountry last year who had tech inserts in a pair of Koflachs that he used with a split board. Probably the weirdest setup I've ever seen. But it's definitely possible!
  20. Eliot Glacier Ice

    What is the beta on these climbs? Is the approach (minus the road closure) straight forward?
  21. Need ice tool suggestions for harder routes

    I've been using a combo of Grivel Tech Machines and a Light Machine. For waterfall climbing I use two tech machines, for alpine climbing I use one tech machine with the light machine. It feels like the best compromise to me - the light machine isn't great at climbing nor is it great for the approach/decent, but it climbs a lot better than most mountaineering axes and plunges/self-arrests better than most technical tools. Plus the tech and light machines use the same pick. A similar combo would be Petzl nomics and a sum'tec.
  22. Hey, I'm not passing the buck. Like I said it's not as simple as my pithy statement makes it out to be. It's more that I think individuals need to focus more on organizing to influence these corporations than they do about not using disposable straws.
  23. While I do believe that individuals should do what they can to reduce their carbon footprint, it's worth remembering that 100 corporations are responsible for over 70% of global emissions: https://www.theguardian.com/sustainable-business/2017/jul/10/100-fossil-fuel-companies-investors-responsible-71-global-emissions-cdp-study-climate-change Of course those corporations mostly exist because individuals buy products from them so it's not as simple as that pithy statement sounds, but the idea that climate change, etc. is a moral failing on the part of individuals is pretty laughable.
  24. I saw the same gear posted on the TAY FB group recently. According to the comments they belong to a guy who used to ski Chair peak so regularly he just stashed his gear up there so he didn't need to carry it up each time. He injured his hip and never bothered to reclaim it.
  25. WHO'S STOKED FOR POW?!?!

    I had some great skiing on the Muir snowfield last October, and by the looks of it this October should be good too!
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