texplorer Posted January 30, 2003 Posted January 30, 2003 Have any of you climbed the Titan in the Fisher Towers of Utah? I would like to get some real person beta- Quote
cracked Posted January 31, 2003 Posted January 31, 2003 Contact Jim Beyer, have a hardman discussion. I suspect crampons and tools might be the best gear to climb the mud curtains. Quote
Dr_Flash_Amazing Posted January 31, 2003 Posted January 31, 2003 Bring an umbrella to keep off the small debris and dirt, and 1/2"x12" expansion bolts. Quote
texplorer Posted January 31, 2003 Author Posted January 31, 2003 I have heard all this stuff before but I suspect the stories are bigger than the actual experience. I know its bound to be dirty but I hear that the rock underneath is actually pretty solid and with it being a 50 classic and all I would suspect it to be climbed often. Quote
Off_White Posted January 31, 2003 Posted January 31, 2003 Doctor, them are called dirt pickets. Quote
erik Posted January 31, 2003 Posted January 31, 2003 That Ancient Arts route looks gripping. Â SUPER FUN AND SUprisingly mellow.... Â the last bit is the best...i should try and scan the pic of my friend peeing off the top... Quote
iain Posted January 31, 2003 Posted January 31, 2003 Summit shots of that climb are some of the best I've seen in climbing. I need to get out to SE Utah again, it has been a long time. The Escalante area is totally mindblowing. Quote
erik Posted January 31, 2003 Posted January 31, 2003 The Escalante area is totally mindblowing. Â you are telling me Quote
texplorer Posted January 31, 2003 Author Posted January 31, 2003 Ancient arts is a fun mellow climb. We took video of the last bit at the top ascending the spire. Quite funny to watch your knees tremble later. Quote
dberdinka Posted January 31, 2003 Posted January 31, 2003 There's a recent thread on supertopo.com regarding gear for the climb. You'll also find a 1st hand report and topo at bigwall.com and some good info at climbingmoab.com. (It's on my list too) Â Last fall I spent a little time there as well. Ancients Arts was super fun. I also climbed Kingfisher and found it much more gripping. Rock was muddier and the fixed gear was a total nightmare. Bent angles and bolts you could pull out by hand. I imagine the Titan is similar! Quote
Dru Posted January 31, 2003 Posted January 31, 2003 a buddy of mine did sun devil, but i hear stevie haston "freed" it now, so you are no longer allowed to nail Quote
erik Posted January 31, 2003 Posted January 31, 2003 a buddy of mine did sun devil, but i hear stevie haston "freed" it now, so you are no longer allowed to nail  i heard he fucked it up when he went for his free attempt. pulled all the fixed gear and put in some new stuff that works for his freed attempt.   Quote
Luna Posted January 31, 2003 Posted January 31, 2003 I climbed Ancient Art on Fisher Towers last year. Grim dirty thing with a heck of a view. The Titan is worse. Talked to some folks who tried it too soon after a rain and the were able to pluck a bolt outt of the rock (mud). Bring goggles and a scarf to cover your mouth to keep the dust out. Quote
dberdinka Posted January 31, 2003 Posted January 31, 2003 I climbed the Colorado Ridge Route. After Ancient Arts, it's considered the other easy climb in the area. Total of 3.5 pitches, a vast majority is C1 on fixed gear. Well if you actually fell it would probably be C3 as you'd be ripping gear out for sure. The position is incredible though, right along a vertical to slightly overhanging arete until you aid out a good size roof 500' off the deck. I should scan some photos... Quote
specialed Posted February 1, 2003 Posted February 1, 2003 Bring lots of sawed-off and baby angles for shallow angle placements Quote
Terry Posted February 3, 2003 Posted February 3, 2003 Tex I did the Finger of Fate in the early 80s. I suspect that things have changed a lot. Even if they haven't my memory is about as suspect as the rock. We drove a lot of bongs, had a constant shower of red grit, flinched at the anchor bolts that had an inch of play in them and enjoyed every minute of it. I do have a bunch of slides which might jog the memory. I've heard that the incipient cracks we encountered have grown over the years due to the traffic. Terry Quote
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