scott

even though it seems to dodge the issue, i don't mind if it is well bolted-- not too many bolts and no bolts where there is gear. i don't know if the place should be rap bolted, though. climbed on lead and then bolted- ok. but working from the top down on a mountain route sounds kinda fishy.

it hasn't been repeated.

one other thing to think about is icefall from near the coleman headwall. the night before we went in a piece the size of a house came down. we walked over the pieces the next morning on our way to the north ridge. try to move through there real quick. most of the route is very easy, but it sounds like getting on to the upper glacier can vary. we belayed for one 20 foot step that was pretty steep and was hard blue ice running with some very cold water. once above that it eases again-- we cut left before the summit. my partner punched through to his chest twice on the way across the glacier. have a good time all the time

. [This message has been edited by scott (edited 05-23-2001).]

if you mean the pete doorish route- i don't think it has seen a second ascent. it is hard aid- but might go free at 12b or so. someone has maybe done the first couple of pitches at mid 11-.

someone want to remove the above post?

someone want to remove the above post?

it could be. rather than get off thread, i'll kick this one inside. thanks.

. [This message has been edited by scott (edited 05-23-2001).]

did you get a chance to talk to river? i climbed with someone named river a few years ago in juneau and wonder what happened to him.

. [This message has been edited by scott (edited 05-23-2001).]

. [This message has been edited by scott (edited 05-23-2001).]

. [This message has been edited by scott (edited 05-23-2001).]

. [This message has been edited by scott (edited 05-23-2001).]

/ [This message has been edited by scott (edited 05-23-2001).]

. [This message has been edited by scott (edited 05-23-2001).]

does charlet sell a classic pick to fit on their tools? i don't think you can self arrest with a drop pick. do you use the adze? this is the only drawback i can see to the charlet multi-shaft tool.

this sounds like an i.t. band problem. it is the most common athletic knee injury, the major symptom is pain in the back of or side of the knee. the tendon runs from your pelvis down to your knee. the problem is partly caused by running or climbing/hiking until you are tired, which causes your knee to bend slightly inward. i had this problem, stopped running for two weeks and got new running shoes with inserts, haven't had it since. it happened when i increased my milage too quickly. there is also an elastic band that goes around your leg that is supposed to help this problem. there is info on the web about this. take ibuprofin and cut back for two weeks. ice helps too.

look at wildthings belay jackets. they are primaloft, very light, and some have wpb shell.

**** edited, hey we really don't need that up here cowboy [This message has been edited by tim (edited 02-12-2001).]

. [This message has been edited by scott (edited 02-08-2001).]

. [This message has been edited by scott (edited 02-08-2001).]

. [This message has been edited by scott (edited 02-08-2001).]

xxxx [This message has been edited by scott (edited 02-03-2001).]

see my post and reply if interested. i am free weekends, will probably climb over MLK holiday. have skis. thank you.