scott

the left side of the upper coulior is in the shade in the morning- if ice has formed on the right side, it will probably start falling when the sun hits it.

hb offset brassies for the second pitch- a couple of the smaller (but not smallest) sizes- and smaller (purple and blue) tcu for the second pitch. you only need one hook, a black diamond skyhook is it. and the pitch over the rotten block- stay in the corner and go over the little roof- don't go out left toward the old bolt anchor with (last i checked) red webbing on it. this was, i thought, the freeclimbing crux for me and was about 10- or 5.9 A0. the fourth pitch is kind of steep and hard for 10b. i guess you should bring an extra head and chisel and hammer in case someone pulled the fixed gear off the third pitch as a souvenier. it isn't A3. its 5.9 C2 and goes quicker than you would think looking up at it. [This message has been edited by scott (edited 06-11-2001).]

steve house

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the answer is yes, it can be comfortably done in two days, but it helps to know the approach. the snow conditions were excellent- very good neve. the schrund just under the upper coulior is passable. the sherpa glacier descent will likely become more difficult as it seems to be icing up.

yes, i often mistake one for the other...

i grew up near the bronx, so when i came out here i had no idea what the hell mountains were. i got lost alot. my first winter outing was in the middle of a snowstorm. i took my girlfriend and dog up to big four- then wandered directly under the avalanche funnel on the north face. i was about fifty feet from the base when i heard a sound like a 747 crashing directly above me. what the hell is that i thought. it was a large avalanche and when i realized what it was i turned and started running. "run away, run away!" i yelled to my wife and dog. "it's an avalanche!" "run away!" i ran about ten feet and my leg postholed up to my hip, leaving me thrashing around like a fish, waving my hands and yelling "run away!" my dog made it the farthest away, my wife didn't sink in and took off. when the noise stopped, the slide had missed me by about thirty feet. they came back and laughed at me, even the dog was laughing at me.

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i would reply, but frankly i'm afraid of you.

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well, you can mention how you might be able to avoid such stuff falling on your bean. snow conditions do change! has anyone found soft, wet snow or has this week of mostly sunny skies firmed things up a bit? what about those bergschrund problems? have the recent warm temps caused lots of large slides? ok- is it really pushing it to do it in two days? i have to be back at work on monday. i'm somewhere between speedy gonzales and the turtle who won the race. conceptualize "average" and let me know- i'll decide whether or not i'm average. in any case- contrast your response with the others- can you see any difference? just how specific should the questions be? [This message has been edited by scott (edited 05-10-2001).]

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the metolius rock rings are a good choice because they allow more natural movement of the elbows and shoulders. i don't suggest hanging statically- it seems to damage my joints. try campusing once in a while- much better than hanging.

i'll second that. super mountain 9's are my favorite boot so far- great lacing system- good support and flexibility. can climb steep ice with them and they hike fine. one thing to notice is the seam on the heal where the sole is attached- it irritated my feet at first. duct tape on my heal did the trick.

they are a great steep face climbing shoe- they can handle thin cracks, but they are too aggressive to jam wider cracks. size them small. great for sport and steep granite.

lets remember that when hemingway was young, his mother made him wear a dress around the house.

i think he is ok, stitches on his head- he'll be back climbing in a few weeks.

would you can it with the way homo pussy crap?

will you chop the route from the ground up?

do i have to wear a hairshirt too? [This message has been edited by scott (edited 04-16-2001).]

what about ground up from hooks with a bosch, then redpointed?