i did this route a few years ago. we approached via the stuart lake trail, but went left (east) off the trail well before the lake and crossed several boulder fields, popped out near the sherpa glacier. it is great climbing, the descent down the sherpa demanded some attention, an hour or two of unroped downclimbing. still the quickest way down and out.
if you get good beta on the approach and know about the snow conditions on the approach, i would go for a day car to car. if not, bivy in the morain near the route and next to the north ridge.
one of the most visually interesting places to be, a pretty wild looking area up there.