scott

obviously, it depends on the conditions. the person i did it with thought it was a little tough for a very short while, and he has guided 8,000 meters. we couldn't pick a route on the headwall area because it was cloudy, so we just climbed where we ran into it. the next people to do it after us died. it took us less than 7 hours round trip from camp. not very hard, but i would still bring a second tool and a couple of screws.

I did it in early april a long time ago. it was apparently the first ascent of the season. it was cloudy just below the ice pitches. we had a pitch or two of 50 to 60 degree neve/ ice (we didn't belay) and then 15 feet of WI 3 that was running with water. it was blue glacier ice and was kind of hard at 9600 feet. this was the only part where we belayed. bring two technical tools just in case the upper part of the route was easy, meandering around crevasses, and very scenic. the summit was struck by lightening just after we got there. the descent must have been cake- we ran down i think- i don't remember it. this is a good route to do car to car. the glacier approach was kind of awful, too many crevasses in the dark, punching through etc. also, the night before a huge piece broke off top of the coleman headwall area and came crashing down, house sized chunks we wandered by the next morning. it was warm. i would bring a few pickets and two ice screws.

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Cycling is the best weight loss exercise I have ever done. If you follow a program like the one outlined in 'the cyclists training bible' by friel, you will get in great shape. ten weeks of lots of miles at 140-150 heart rate, then start to add different types of intervals. you can burn thousands of calories in a few hours.

I'd be right at home just outside the asylum...

Thanks for the information. I am thinking of living out of a truck w/ camper or renting a cabin outside of town. anyplace close by with shacks in the woods? I am just about sold on the idea.

I have an opportunity to work in Anchorage for the summer, but am wondering about climbing, mountain biking, kayaking nearby. Is the Chugach interesting? Glacier climbing? Any resources? thanks

its the mendenhall towers outside of junneau. really incredible granite, new route potential. helicopter approach and terrible weather.

and by the way, NOW would be the ideal time to get on either of these routes

now ladies...simmer down.

anyone know how the crevasse situation might be for an unroped climber? is it really well covered up?

The Smoot guide says its c3 or something.

What is the consensus rating for Liberty Crack? I have heard C3 to A1. I think it is C1+ or C2. What about the Thin Red?

I've heard that you should cut 250 calories a day from your diet. More than that slows your metabolism too much. Also, get a cheap heart rate meter. Long workouts in zone 2-3 on a bike will cut fat quick.

ok alex- i'll look at the index guide again. and dru- let it be known that i plan on nailing city park into an easy 5.11... i'm sure no one will mind.

By which I mean pounding pins. Suggestions for routes in Washington in the A2-A3 range that offer good introduction to nailing? I am not interested in nailing stuff that is now normally done clean. I have done clean to C2 but no real nailing.

I don't think you can safely use an ascender for lead soloing.

backing up further is up to the climber i guess. i just like to keep moving and not have to bother with another system. as long as the rope is well anchored, you could tie the rope into a piece 25ft up or so with a clove hitch after you pass it, and then clip a sling that is girth hitched to your harness to the rope with a locker. if you fall, you won't go past the piece the rope is tied into. this has the advantage of being a do it once and forget about it method.

For toproping, the soloist works really well. if you pump out you can sit on the rope like with an ascender. it feeds very well. i would tie the rope back into the pro with a clove hitch after you pass it) every 50 feet or so so that the weight of the rope doesn't begin to pull the soloist sideways. the trick with using the soloist is to get the right amount of tension between the harness and the chest harness so that the thing doesn't twist or turn sideways easily, but not so much tension that you can't do reachy moves. the soloist doesn't hold upside down falls. the silent partner does, but is tricky to use and will not lock up easily if you want to rest on the rope when toproping. it takes a real fall to lock up the silent partner. to back up a soloist used while toproping, just tie a looping knot in the rope beneath you- the soloist will snag on the knot if it doesn't catch.

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thanks. any input/ stories appreciated...

any thoughts on what routes are accessible, which of these are safest (least threatened from avalanche) etc?

potassium is supposed to help. eat bananas

Just keep calling-- someone will pick up eventually...

hey caveman someone is posting in my name. i did not write that post suggesting that you and fred beckey engage in lewd acts. i received your personal message reply and was quite confused. i am still confused. scott