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jja

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Everything posted by jja

  1. Who needs a webcam when we've got Dane !!
  2. Nice tr crackman. I think my experience is the mirror oppostite of yours. Leuthold's was the first thing I did in the PNW with great weather on the first time out but every time I've been on Hood since the weather has beaten me. By the way, I can't figure out how to get that thing to work either, I think it has something to do with using a url that doesn't have a www(?). Cool pics anyhow.
  3. jja

    Sportiva Ice

    I used trango s's on chair saturday as well, absolutely love these boots , I don't know what took me so long to get a pair of leathers! the M10's I had might of made those tracks, I had the plastic dealies on the bottom, and they're hinged in the middle (semi-rigid) so they do real well in snow.
  4. Alex, I can never figure out which name matches which ice , I guess I'll wait till the book comes out in Sep. I took this picture on 1/11/03 it's in a cliff band below the east face of chair at the top of the avi slopes that spill down into the source lake area. Does this thing have a name? From a distance it looked like it might go, and that the hidden ramp on the right might be iced up too. -john
  5. jja

    chair peak

    oh yeah, barry - you rock as a partner, and uhm - I've got one of your biners. (send me your address and I can drop it off when I'm in Tacoma)
  6. jja

    chair peak

    Yeah, we passed about 6 people on the ridge to get to the start of the first pitch only to find a pair already on it and another party of two waiting. But we lucked out big time! The leader of the two waiting made a few moves then backed off, and offered us the pitch. Thanks guys !! Then the people we had passed started to show up, so when we went up there were 6 people at the belay - but I didn't see anyone else come up behind us, so I don't think any of that group did the route. Just glad we motored on the approach and passed all those people. Agreed - the rock moves looked much worse than they were, but I would of liked something more than a questionable #1cam nonetheless.
  7. jja

    chair peak

    What time did you start the 1st pitch Lambone? We were at the first belay at like 8:30 and waited a bit for the party in front of us before they decided it wasn't for them. By the by, we talked with some guys who did the butt, and they said there was a good deal of ice/firm snow with not much rock - go figure. Great day and most importantly, cluster fuck free!!
  8. jja

    chair peak

    Franklin Falls - bring a snorkel NE slab tooth - bring some skill NY gully - bring some mojo Upper International - bring good skis
  9. jja

    chair peak

    dude, that looks killer !!
  10. jja

    chair peak

    so who has the link to the webcam that's up there?
  11. jja

    chair peak

    More pointless approach beta follows: Didn't feel like running tonight so I hiked up to chair instead. Left the car at 7:10pm was at the bottom of the first pitch on the nf at 9:35pm, bulletproof all the way. The good news is it's cold up there and everything is frozen, crust and all. Had my tools and crampons with me so I made a few moves onto the ice, thick enough for stubbies for sure, maybe even a 17cm. Though secure, the ice did feel a little areated(sp?). ... So there I am, on ice, with tools, crampons, a descent rope in my pack, headlamp, great conditions, no wind, all the stars out, all alone, having that debate in my head, should I or shouldn't I. - Oh wait a minute, I did forget something - balls!
  12. ... and trotsky was assasinated in mexico with an ice axe
  13. "Quantity has a quality all its own." So spoke Joseph Stalin, Master of the Socialist Worker State, ruler of the Russias & Commander of the vast forces of the Soviet Army.
  14. just wondering if I'm the only one spending way too much time surfing at work
  15. There are 33 registered users online right now.
  16. Step 1. Go to google.com Step 2. Type mule knot and click Search Step 3. Click on first search result Step 4. See cool pic, post url on cc.com Absolutely no thinking was involved in any of this
  17. this is a mule knot: http://wac.icomm.ca/classes/climbingclass/knots/Mule.html I didn't know what it was either, I've always done the wrap around the leg thing - but this seems way better.
  18. Last March I left a pair of bd flicklocks, a full water bottle, and a half eaten prosciutto and provolone baguette in the basin below the east face of chair. We came down in the dark and I couldn't find them. I've got new poles now, so all I really want back is the rest of the sandwich.
  19. After getting a pair of the new trango's my scarpa inverno's feel like climbing with cement blocks on my feet - and I'm not putting up any mixed testpieces, I'm just a gumby ice thrasher. The only thing I worry about the leathers is cold feet, I get them fairly easily. So far so good, but I haven't used them in really cold conditions yet. The best solution it seems would be to have both plastic and leather if you can swing the bucks.
  20. If the 700 mile drive sounds appealing the road to the parking lot was drivable in a taurus, and the warm weather (in the 30's during the day) has fattened up the ice - compared to a couple of weeks ago according to the locals. climbing driving
  21. yeah, I'm bringing all those things - headed out to les' now for new snow tires too. I called 2 climbing shops in bozeman and they said the road was still "casual", but it's gonna snow - if it's bad we'll park the car and hitch.
  22. well, it looks like hyalite .. I wonder how badly I'll get the taurus stuck
  23. Does anyone have recent knowledge of Lillooet conditions ??? This afternoon we're heading to either lillooet or hyalite, for two days of driving - uhh, I mean climbing. I'd much prefer to go to lillooet if there is anything to do, just rambles and marble would be good enough, since we would be on the duffy road in the storm for too long to do anything else anyway. Good Beta = Round on me at Mugs and Jugs !!
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