jja

Climb: Midnight Run on Chair Peak-North Face Date of Climb: 2/12/2004 Trip Report: Being the cube person that I am, it sucks having to work through week long high pressure systems that end on friday. A headlamp climb seemed in order. Luckily the gun-totin gaper was thinking the same thing. We met at the alpental parking lot at 5pm. There were two guys coming down from the neb route that we talked to a bit, then we started hiking at about 5:20. Did the approach w/o snowshoes with only the occasional post hole. It was a clear, cloudless night. The wind picked up considerably as soon as we crested the hill into the basin below chair. Geared up and headed over to the nf. Made a worthless belay at a spot that will soon become a moat, as the man of many avatars headed for the open book, I promised to jump into the moat if he fell. After about 50m greg set up a good rock belay about half way up the dihedral/open book thing. When I got there I used my halogen head lamp to try and scope out the route. The different snow cover (little to no ice) from last year and headlamp shadows had us scratching our head for a minute as to which way would be best. I traversed a little bit left then headed up on some runnels. Most of the face is alternating bands of old wet slide paths, and wind swept powder features. Some of the snow was really funky, but most of it was secure. It seems that whenever it got steep good neve or ice would show up. Ended up simulclimbing the rest of the face. Headlamp battery died and used my last sling about 50ft from the top. Up top at 10:30 Coolest moment: Just before topping out coming over the crest between the nf and neb and seeing the ice fog spilling over the snow lake divide, the star filled sky, and the glow of the lights from alpental. Since it was blowing like crazy we decided to forego the walk over to the true summit Mark Twight style and just begin the descent. Back at the car at 12:40. Shit eatin grin on my face all day at work today !! Gear Notes: Placed one picket horizontally, probably useless. Placed one screw in actual ice. Clipped a fixed pin, used nuts for first belay. Slung trees for everything else. Approach Notes: Good trail, a little bit of post holing here and there, but no biggie.

The rumor's are that this story is being shopped around by Chris Lehane - democratic muck raker extrodinaire, and past consultant to the Kerry campaign, before he got fired by Kerry and hired by Clark.

XXXXX DRUDGE REPORT XXXXX THU FEB 12, 2004 11:45:28 ET XXXXX CAMPAIGN DRAMA ROCKS DEMOCRATS: KERRY FIGHTS OFF MEDIA PROBE OF RECENT ALLEGED INFIDELITY, RIVALS PREDICT RUIN **World Exclusive** **Must Credit the DRUDGE REPORT** A frantic behind-the-scenes drama is unfolding around Sen. John Kerry and his quest to lockup the Democratic nomination for president, the DRUDGE REPORT can reveal. Intrigue surrounds a woman who recently fled the country, reportedly at the prodding of Kerry, the DRUDGE REPORT has learned. A serious investigation of the woman and the nature of her relationship with Sen. John Kerry has been underway at TIME magazine, ABC NEWS, the WASHINGTON POST, THE HILL and the ASSOCIATED PRESS, where the woman in question once worked. MORE A close friend of the woman first approached a reporter late last year claiming fantastic stories -- stories that now threaten to turn the race for the presidency on its head! In an off-the-record conversation with a dozen reporters earlier this week, General Wesley Clark plainly stated: "Kerry will implode over an intern issue." [Three reporters in attendance confirm Clark made the startling comments.] The Kerry commotion is why Howard Dean has turned increasingly aggressive against Kerry in recent days, and is the key reason why Dean reversed his decision to drop out of the race after Wisconsin, top campaign sources tell the DRUDGE REPORT. Developing... ----------------------------------------------------------- Filed By Matt Drudge Reports are moved when circumstances warrant http://www.drudgereport.com for updates ©DRUDGE REPORT 2004 Not for reproduction without permission of the author

Your's for just $599 !!

Glad I'm not the only one.

juan, did you need shoes or skis for the approach? thanks.

.

This saturday (1/31) I lost a bd express ice screw at honeyman falls. It's a 19cm screw with red and yellow tape on the hanger. Don't think we left it on the climb, so it probably fell into the deep snow at the belay. Did anyone up there on Sunday find it? thanks, -john

What a cool weekend, just got back now. After a neurotic fit on friday afternoon worrying whether the roads would be open or not, me and timL got a 5am start on Saturday. Pulled into town a little before noon, and went and did honeyman falls. Being a lightweight I bailed early on the debauchery at the reynolds on Saturday night. Sunday was one of those days. Starts with: what do you want to do?, I dunno what do you want to do?, I could do whatever, want to go into the bridge? ... this kind of day inevitably leads to MC. Left MC early and went and scoped stuff out in bridge river and the approach to synchro. We decided we'd do the drop down to the road approach and cross the river. Left the car Monday at 6:45 and followed a boot track down to the river, crossing on a log. (possible to jump ice islands too, did this on the return) Got to the first bit of ice at 8:20. What a great climb this is!! We had really good conditions. The climb was wet only in easily avoidable spots. The ice was mostly refrozen sun baked stuff. Not bad really, had to dig for pro in spots. I haven't done a lot in lillooet, but so far this is for sure the best. Seems like the phantom sheep pornographer struck the unsuspecting again: The "ramp" pitch of synchro: Near the top of the upper tier of synchro:

ken / fern / anybody else, if you're staying at the mile-0 drop in and say hi. I've got a white taurus, I'll write the room number on the trunk. we'll be there sat and sun night. (playing hooky on monday, yee-haw!) -john

my guess is because only like 15 people showed up last year. I don't know what the finances were like, but I can't imagine that they didn't lose money.

Roads are open !! LAST UPDATED: Fri Jan 30 AT 18:57 PM HWY 1: TRANS CANADA HWY: HOPE, BOSTON BAR, LYTTON, SPENCES BRIDGE TO CACHE CREEK: Bare with compact snow and slippery sections north of Lytton. HWY 99: SEA TO SKY HWY: HORSESHOE BAY TO SQUAMISH: Bare. SQUAMISH TO WHISTLER: Compact snow, slushy and slippery sections. WHISTLER TO PEMBERTON: Compact snow, slushy and slippery sections. Single lane alternating traffic at Rutherford Creek Bridge 24 km north of Whistler 24 hrs a day until further notice. Traffic light controlled. PEMBERTON (DUFFEY LAKE ROAD) LILLOOET TO THE JCT OF HWY 97N: Compact snow and slippery sections. *ROAD 40: LILLOOET TO GOLDBRIDGE: Compact snow and slippery sections.

especially since the website shows the overnight temps have been around -15c all week, and never above 0. still gonna try and get up there for sun, mon.

Was planning a 3 day ... oh well, Lillooet will have perfect weather to climb and nobody there we're going to see what everything looks like tomorrow, and maybe go up for sunday, monday.

aaaaaaaaaaaaarrrrrrrrrrgggggggggggghhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh!!! does anyone know if there is anything in and worth doing on saturday that is south of the closings? whistler or pemberton on the 99 side, or hope or yale on the 1 side? I'm assuming that with good weather forecast for saturday, sunday and monday, that the roads ought to open up by saturday afternoon .. sound reasonable?

.. just followed your link, guess bridge river is closed for now. Oh well, we'll be there through monday, so saturday maybe we'll just tool around on the in town stuff or marble. ******************************************************* LOCATION: Road 40 - Lillooet to Goldbridge INCIDENT: High avalanche hazard. STATUS: Closed TIME OF CLOSURE: 0558 hrs January 30th, 2004. TIME OF OPENING: Unknown. UPDATE TO FOLLOW: Yes.

aarghhh!!! Where does 99 get closed? are these the gates on the hwy going north from pemberton? Does 99 South close coming out of lillooet? Is the synchro area still accessable? Bridge river should still be open right ? will you be there this weekend?

news in winter ... hmmm. The standard descent off of news involves three full length raps down a tight slot, then a loose gully, then the free hanging rap off a giant boulder. Does anyone know if this descent route has been done as a winter ice/mixed climb? It looks like it would be really sweet if it ices up.

When's it gonna be on tv?

maybe, but I think it is smith in the winter. Here's that pitch in the summer:

says yes and yes

but is it in lillooet area or WA? WA has ice ?? .. it's in banff

more east coast (nh) ice

here's a super easy one