Rodchester

Chuck: Are you serious? Spain has been active in fighting terrorism WAY before the US bothered. The recent activity has been going on since Franco took over after the Spanish Civil War in the 1930s. The Basques have been very active, more so at times and less so at other times, in terrorism. Recall that Franco's right hand man was killed in a terrorist bombing. He had been hand picked by Franco to replace Franco and was he a real bastard. (I can't remember his name). After he was murdered, Franco relented more or less setting up the return of the Monarchy (Juan Carlos), who eventually turned the government back over to the people. ETA has previously worked with terrorist organizations from outside of Spain (but has kept thier own activities pretty close to Spain and the Basque area in France). This includes the PLO and the IRA. In fact, many NSPS types and intel wonks believe that the IRA trained and supplied ETA to kill Franco’s handpicked successor. It was done almost identically (method and means) to the killing of Lord Montbatten. Spain has been suffering from this for years and has always asked for help.

I disagree with you Mark. Respectfully, yes. We have been paying taxes and funding the FOREST SERVICE through the general fund and the Dept. of Agriculture for years and years and years. The idea has always been to make the Forest Service land open and available for recreation. This is a great idea. However, we are still paying taxes, but now its not free. If there is a shortfall in funding it is up to the legislature to gather taxes. (Recall that when this was set up, the fee demo, we had a surplus, that's right a surplus ). Agreeing with user fees for what has historically been funded by the general fund provides a pass to politicians, right, left, and middle to not do their jobs. Again, we still pay taxes, the politicians have just used the same money that would support the FS and put it toward PORK, because the “users” will pay. In effect the “users” are be taxed double. This is BAD. Further, and just as bad, is that it is slowly creeping up to the point where “public lands” (parks are another issue) are becoming for those that can afford the fees. This is beginning to leave out a good portion of the public and is only getting worse. We still pay taxes and now they want user fees also. This is not like a “sin tax.” This is historically non-fee public land with a long history of public use for recreation. Paying to get into, and use, the Parks is different. You are paying for the facilities. The Parks are financed differently through the Dept. of Interior. This has been the long standing tradition. If you can’t afford the parks you can go to the Forests. Oh, no you can’t, not anymore. And what are we getting for our money anyway? A trailhead that already existed? Bullshit. A new Crapper? Bullshit. Sure the funds are going toward the maintenance and upkeep of these, but the FS has always done this. . .through general fund tax revenue flowing through the Dept of Agriculture. . ..not through user fees. The Forests need to stay forests, open free to the public. The politicians need to do their jobs. Your position lets the politicians off the hook and double taxes me and other users.

After living in Ouray, Levenworth will weem cosmopolitan, a pretty scary thought. Actually L-worth is a really good idea. Close to Seattle, yet right in the heart of good crag climbing and the entrance to some GREAT alpine trad and mountaineering, and close to the volcanoes for mountaineering. I could think of a lot worse places. For a few months to a year, L-Worth would rock. How about spring skiing? When do the local areas shut down? Stevens?

Of course, gear/protection needs will vary with each route. That said, here is a rough OUTLINE for a basic alpine rack: ONE SET OF NUTS: There are many brands out there. I know some hear will disagree with me, but FOR THE MOST PART, nuts are nuts. On most climbs that you are looking at, a set of standard nuts should do you fine. I think if you buy them as a set you’ll get 20% off if you use you dividend before April 1, 2004. . . I think. The smaller sizes are mostly aid pieces, so don't worry about picking them up. HEXES: I have and will carry (when a large piece is needed) the large sized Hexes. I have the four largest BDs. The two largest are lightweight and work great when you need one or two large pieces to protect a move or two, but you don’t want to carry (or pay for large cams). CAMS: Throw in about four mid-sized cams and maybe two smaller cams, and you’re set on protection. (For the most part). DRAWS: About six 24 inch runners (get the Mammut Dyneema slings, they are strong and light ) and two biners per sling to make six good alpine draws. Pick up the Trango lightweight wire gate biners at Second Ascent, or some other lightweight biner (Omego JC Wiregate, BD Neutrino). Then get two long, 48 inch, runners, an handful of extra biners, and a few decent lockers. ROPES: I like the smaller diameter single ropes, like a 9.8 mm x 60 meter dry rope. If you need a rope, using your dividend and the 20 % discount may be the way to go. Of course, gear/protection needs will vary with each route and your ability/comfort level. On some routes you may just carry the nuts and a couple of draws, on some you’ll carry everything. Many here will say that this a big rack for what you’re doing. But if you are just learning to lead, having the gear to “stitch up” tricky sections with a lot of protection is good. Also, throw in some "leaver" 1 inch webbing and a couple of rap rings.

She's hotter than a half-fucked fox in a forest fire.

Bend is a cool town, but Bend is way too far from the great alpine stuff in the central and north Cascades. At least for my taste. Its not that close the volcanoes either. At least not closer than many other areas. And Hood gets really crappy in the summer. Hood is best climbed in the later winter or spring...like right now. So if you’re moving soon and will be here most of spring and really want to hit Smith. . .Bend rocks. But if your focus is mountaineering and/or alpine climbing I’d be further north so you can hit the North Cascades. I guess Bend would have good access to spring skiing. 2 cents Good luck.

I tend to do the same, but the differences in this case are HUGE.

I don't know. It does seem wierd that the forecasts are SO different. I surfed by the forecasts again and they are still radically different. I also surfed by The Weather Channel and it seems to agree with Intellicast. Anyone got any opinions or observations of weather forecasting services?

Read the other post/thread. The bill does not include extending the Fee Demo to the Forest Service and BLM lands. That means it continues in its present incarnation until it laspes, which is this fall (October I believe?). So this pass appears to be designed to get you into all fee areas, Parks, Forests, etc. for this season. After that the pass may still exist, but you won't need it (or any other pass) to get into / use Forest Service areas. It is crazy. I agree it is hard to understand all of the Fees and where and when they apply. Hopefully after this October things will be easier.

Wow...that is cheap. Looks like a great deal for a beginner set, or m,aybe as a third tool. Here is another good deal on a straight shaft classic alpine hammer. Alpine Hammer

FYI for anyone interested: Red Rock Rendezvous

Looks like the two forecasts disagree. That's wazzzup. Yep, the NWS even says 11000 ft. on Saturday night. But Intellicast says in the mid 20s F at Timberline. I saw something on the news last night about how inaccurate the NWS is against many of the private run weather services. I wonder if this is what they were talking about? I guess we'll see.....

Forgive my confusion, but it seems like you are describing this week's conditions... I'd say there is a warming trend, but not really warm...and by week's end, the precipitation will have been over with by more than a few days. With freezing temps at night, get an early start and you should be fine. Weather at Timberline I'd say this could be an excellent weekend on Hood.

The individual that is going to follow and clean is fairly new to alpine climbing and I haven't been in the area (believe it or not) and so the first time into the area I would like to do a bivy/camp in the basin. I figure once I'm familar with the area I'll come back and do the other ridges in a day (one day at a time of course). Anyone done the Southeast Ridge on Sharkfin Tower? Would this be an easier one-day intro to the area? Nelson says it goes at 5.0 and is 2-5 hours from the Basin. Also, for the North Ridge, is there a better way to approach and camp in another Basin? Or at least easier to get permits to camp in another area? Options? Ideas? Thanks to all.

I have a pair of BD Shrikes with the bent shaft. I am happy with them for water ice and for some alpine. The type of bend in the shaft (At the hand as opposed to at the head) does make it hard to plunge the axe when self-belaying or probing. I wish I had one old fashioned alpine hammer at 55cm with a straight shaft. You can get the BD Shrike on sale cheap right now. They take most any BD pick (except for the VERY old original X-Tool picks). BD Picks can be purchased just about anywhere, at least in N.America. Shrike Sale At that price they are hard to beat. Good luck.

I could swear that I saw one at Marmot???

Go early...it can be a bowling alley with you as the not-so-quick-to-move-pins in warm conditions. Have fun....

looks like a cold, overcast amd windy vantage weekend. Looks like a beer weekend.

I think Russ is correct thatthere are many old axes laying around in garages and closets. That is a perfect example of Stubai stamped within a mountain, meaning it is not that old. I'll bet its a 1960s model...interesting adze. That is in great shape.

I know that overnight camping in the Basin requires a permit year round. But what I want to know is, when is the high season for the area when permits become difficult to obtain? ROUGHLY when does it become a pain to get permits? Also regarding Forbidden Peak (West, East and North Ridges): Is there a time in the early season when one can USUALLY get a permit when these routes are USAULLY in "season-shape?" Also, any opinions on each or any of these ridge routes is appreciated. Thanks in advance.

The reality is that there are many of these old axes laying around. I have a pretty rare one that is a WW II German mountain troops actual issue with the German Army serial number clearly visible on it. I have another Stubai that I believe is from the early 1930s (based on some research) that is only 50 cms in length. The short axes are VERY rare. back then everything was long, walking axes. My pint is that these tend to run between $100.00 for a standard old axe and up to about $500.00 for a VERY rare axe. In the years to come, assuming you can authenticate that it was used by old Fred, it may be considered rare. But overall these axes are more interesting pieces that you hang on your wall, as opposed to a museum wall. Does anyone know of a Cascade Climbing museum, or mountaineering historical society? Do the Mountaineers have anything like that? Others? I have been trying to find an old hemp rope....that is very hard to find. That said, I agree with most here...don't touch the wood shaft.

Cpt. Cavie: I just spoke with a Japanese speaker in my office. He did a QUICK review of the linked page. If the axe has Stubai stamped on the head inside a mountain, it is newer (post WWII). If the axe has Stubai stramped inside of a triangle, it is older (usually 1950 or older). So: Triangle or Mountain?

DT: I guess that I did not state what i meant clearly. The topic is how one attaches the belay biner and belay device to the harness. Specifically questioning the way that some people clip the belay biner through the leg loops and the waist belt (mirroring the belay loop) as opposed to attaching the bely biner and device to the manufactured belay loop. That clarified, I should have said: I was at Second Ascent the other day and saw a good diagram and visual explanation oo why you shouldn't route a belay biner and device through the waist belt and the leg belt as suggested by some here. It creates a three way load on the biner (as stated by some here). Biners are tested and designed for a two way load. The weakest part of the biner is the gate. When you use the biner in the way suggested by some here, and a leader falls (or any weight is placed on the rope) it could create a three way load (waist belt, leg webbing, and the rope). Should anyone of these three loads land on the gate, failure is POSSIBLE. I do agree that clipping into a locking biner for glacier travel (should use two) that is clipped into the harness' belay loop is not going to generate enough force to USAULLY cause concern.

Well, I guess its kind of like the old Monty Python skit..."Bring out your dead." The clearly dying guy is being put out into the street to be picked up (picture the time of the black plague) by a guy shouting "Bring Out Your Dead!" The clearly dying man protests: "But I'm not dead yet." In theory this thing could be revived. But I seriously think its dead on FS and BLM lands. So guess its not dead yet. . ..but it will be son. In the meantime, keep your fingers crossed.

Nope...just asking ML what she means. That's why I used the confused icon.