Rodchester

No not really...we make the call on the spot. If we are on one of the volcanoes and it is cold -5 side up, down lower and it is warm... you get the picture. Not like the date (Spring or Fall)dictates, the temps do. Spring and Fall temps can really vary around here. And the 30 dgeree bagcan be cold....especially for the wife.

Nanatuk had 1.5 months, knew that there was a deadline, and represented that they could get it done 1.5 weeks prior to departure date....they didn't...and didn't bother to tell them for a few extra days knowing they were leaving on a big trip. I would be pissed off too. Tom but dropped the ball on this one. ibarash: My wife and I zip our sleeping bags together (Marmots). We have a decent system where we use two -5 down bags in winter, spring, and fall (In the Cascades) and one -5 down bag with one 30 degree down bag in summer. If its warm we put the 30 degree up, and the -5 on the botom. Cold, and we put the 30 degree on the bottom and the -5 on top. Works good, but the hoods don't line up and it can get kind of funky. But we make it work. Good luck....

I've met Tom and found him to be a good guy with a good company and good product....but he dropped the ball....period. It doesn't matter if you're dealing with the little guy or REI. They have to deliver, or you can't do business with them. If this had been REI eveyone here (MOST ANYWAY) would be screaming about the man keeping them down. And how you should buy from the little guy. I always thought that the argument was that the little guy gave you better secrvice and better info and better blah blah blah. Not this time. I still support and use small shops the majority of the time. But an error is an error. Where did you dream up this? They had an oral contract with a clear indcation of time based performance. Tom did what he had to business-wise and legal wise. He had to refund the money (VISA would have had a field day with that one and Tom could have had real problems). Further, Tom did exactly what he should have done....be open and honest about it. But he still dropped the ball. As far as getting an apology fromt he owner goes....of course. He is the owner and the guy running the show, answering the phones, taking orders, etc., its a small shop, that's how it works. No, I would expect the CEO of TNF to aplogize, but I wouldn't expect him to take the order either. Hope you were able to get a back-up.

I was there two weeks ago and did the East Ridge, rapping down the normal route (South face). The snow conditions are normal for this time of the year and both routes are snow free. The approach still had a lot of snow, but it was great step kicking. Better with snow. No need for crampons. I had an ice axe up the chute leading to the East Ridge and was glad that I had it, though a set of poles would have been alright. The South Face route is snow free from the normal start point. No need for ice axe or crampons. Do the East Ridge. A more fun/interesting route with less people on it. I would either start very early, or wait till a bit later. Be first or least one on the route. have fun

Oh, sure its realitic. I had a similar experience last weekend on Snow Creek Wall. And another time I was on rainier and Stallone and I were putting up this aid route on the Ingraham glacier..and this jet accidently dumped gold bars on us. And then the CIA parachuted in a team of genetically cloned Jenn Jamesons to steel the bars from us...and they were sucksessful...

Thanks I just spoke with a woman there. very nice and sounds like it is not probelm (with a signed waiver ... of course). But she said they don't stock the material. Anyone know where I can get spectra runner/draw material/webbing that isn't already sewn into a draw?

Ciffhanger was enertaining in a hollywood way, but laughable in a climbing sense. Wopper puts it this way: Climbing movies will never be good because climbing is only fun and intense for those that are actually doing it. Its boring to watch in real life, why would it look good in movies. and Blackhawk Down, now that is a good combo on a Rainy friday night.

I have a pair of aluminum Camps (New-matic style) that rock. I have used them on short steep sections of pretty hard exposed glacial ice...however...I tend to agree that concern is warranted regarding both aluminum strap-on crampons and softer boots. My 2 cents: take the steel and feel comfortable knowing you've got good footing. If you take the steel and don't need them, I'll buy you a beer next time I see you....

Its either everest or Mt. Baker..... yes I'm kidding

Does anyone know of a local shop in the Seattle area? I have a mix of old cams that I am rehabilitating with new triggers and three need new slings. In not in Seattle, then one that does it via mail? Thanks in advance.

Just be sure that they are legit and clarify in advance what services they are providing and what they are not. Nepal is a pretty easy country to get good locals as they are used to making a living based on tourism. However, there are still some operators that are just screwed up, some that are not legit, and often the cultural differences can lead to misunderstandings regarding services and supplies. Mountain Madness has a full time office in Nepal and keeps a regular staff there which allows them to have the best of both worlds. Good luck...

Nobody's been up there? Come on...someone?

Jenna Jameson...now that would include a traverse of two massive peaks. mmmm.....

www.mountainmadness.com Call 1-800-328-5925 and ask for Mark Gunlogson or Shane. They The Koflachs also Good luck....

Map, compass, and brain working as a team.

Doesn't REI always, or usually, land in the top-whatever places to work as rated by employees? How can that be if they are the evil empire beating thier employees and taking food from their tables while the darth vader music plays?

Everyone: Room to Read Fundraising Climb Be part of a fabulous climb of Mount Baker to raise funds to build a new school in the rural Arun Valley in Nepal This is a link to a Fundraising climb of Mt. Baker to raise funds for a charitable organization called Room to Read. They raise funds and build libraries and scools in nepal, India, Vietnam and other poor countries. They are very active in Nepal, and are a IRS certified 501 ©(3) tax deductable orgaization....so any donations are tax deductable. Whether you might want to climb to raise cash, or donate cash to a climber, please check it out. John Woods the founder is a straight up guy and VERY little of your donations go to operating costs. I know the number used to be like 95% goes to end users, or benficiaries as we have here. Lots of kick ass volunteers help to keep costs low. Room to Read Home Page Thanks for any consideration (Administrators: If I posted this in the wrong area please move it and accept my apologies).

Anyone been up there recently? Conditions? Thanks....

My point is that when decision times comes, what each individual says does not matter. They will go with what they see as the direction or desire of the majority. There is no way to make eveyone happy. They'll just have to get over it.

I'd bet that they are saying that 60 mph winds created a -30 wind chill temp.....

I'm with wopper on this one. If some of the members don't like it they can quit, or they can try to change it through the system. The fact is, individual members do not directly effect any co-op's actions or any regular corporation's actions. Whopper's point of buy gear elsewhere is the way to effect REI's decision. Remember, it takes a lot of bricks to build a wall.

You are correct...but won't they change again? ANd what will unions to do stop this / or change this situtation? I'm not totally anti-union. I just don't see it as an end all be all, like many do.

Summiting at 11 a.m. seems knid of late to me Not saying it is dangerous or that this is why they got cought, but it sounds kind of late. Don't most groups summit around 6-9 a.m.? Just curious on the summit times of most teams/climbers.

Well I do agree with AlpineK that Walmart has too often done some unethical things to employees....the time card thing is just pure BS. But as far as having thier own Industrial Insurance, that in and of itself is not a bad thing, its how they manage it that can create probelms. Anyone can be a self-insured company (You have to be able to demonstrate certain things like a certain cash liquidity, no chance of BR, etc.). I don't see Walmart as unethical per se...but some of thier actions have been unethical. And as far as the lawsuits go, keep um coming. They help to keep companies, like Walmart, in line. I know many think that sounds crazy, but when Walmart starts shelling out more in jury awards and attorney fees, they'll change thier ways fast...because its more economical to change. Times change and we can't try to stay the smae. Don't fight change, you'll loose.

Look at the tecnica Ascend at PMS. I have a pair, and so soed the wife, and we both are very happy with them as a mid-duty boot or light mountaineerring boot. Fine for everything from long ass approaches, to trekking, to alpine rock routes, to basic mountaineering (Olympus, Glacier, Baker) and the main routes. I wouldn't want to front-point water ice in them, but for the basic stuff they are great. PMS - Boots Tecnica Ascend (Replaced by the Dunagiri GTX. Some stock still available.) $215 The all new Ascend Bio-Flex TCY model sets new standards for high-end backpacking footwear. The Tecnica Bio-Flex closure system combined with a highly abrasion resistant upper, will outperform normal leather boots in this category. The Ascend Bio-Flex TCY features a Vibram Ice Trek outsole, which is pneumatic crampon compatible, and an asymmetrical tongue. Color: Anthracite/Red Size: M: 7-13 Weight: 3 lbs. 10 oz. Upper: Kevlar/Nylon Lining: Tecni-Dry (TCY) Power Core/Insole: R Super Removable Footbed: Excel Outsole/Midsole: Vibram Ice Trek