Rodchester

The ability to exhaust exiting stock is very common place in these types of purchase and sale agreements. Otherwise the deals wouldn't go through. This is not just the outdoor industry, but most all industries that produce a product. Sorry to hear about Twight getting the raw end of the deal, but its not illegal. While the deal may screw some, it benefits others . . .even some of the small guys. Also, the stock will eventually be liqudated, and Twight, assuming his relationship with Grivel NA continues, will be back in business. It just sucks to hang on in the meantime.

Illegal sale? Check that? My understanding from people in the industry and from people at Mammut-Europe is that Mammut purchased Climb High with the eventual goal of it serving as the North American distributor for all Mammut products. Because Mammut makes and sells its own line of hardware in Europe (actually they have someone else make it and then stamp the Mammut name on it) and because Grivel is a major competitor, they could not continue to carry Grivel. Grivel was also not interested in having their primary competitor distribute their product in the states when Mammut is going to make a push into the North American market. This is simply an evolution of the business and neither Grivel nor Mammut were interested in working with each other. Would you trust your distribution to your competitor? The stock “on hand” was purchased in the sale and a right of exhaustion was likely given. This is typical in the business. Otherwise you’d be buying stock that you can’t sell. That is why Climb High is blowing out the old stock. I am aware of this through some business connections in Europe and some sponsored climbers that I know and work with (on the business side) Grivel now has a new NA distributor and continues to do business. Although I have no idea what that arragment is, or who it is with. It is possible that some athletes and or other sponsored programs were not picked up by the new owners, Mammut, or that the new Grivel distributor was not interested in picking them up. There is however, nothing illegal about it. Illegal sale? If you know something I don't, fill me in.

As long as it doesn't effect the quality, I like it!!!

Looks inetresting...but does the boot take other crampons, or do you have to use the Montrail crampon? It seems like the boot would also take other crampons. But I'm not sure. Anyone actually seen or tried these things?

Mexico and Ecuador....cheap and fun fun fun.

Why aren't the 500s good for what he is doing? They are just fine and easy to use. They also have the advantage of accepting a mountaineering boot better than any other non-silveretta AT binding.

or try www.speedclimbing.org Looks like Dan is not as alone as he seems to think that he is.

The real question is: What the OFFICIAL time? In order to find out, go to www.speedclimbing.com

I have the same set up, but formally had an old pair of 400s on true touring Hagan boards. That said, I ski just fine in them on the blues, greens, and on some blacks. No doubt that at high speeds you can really feel the boards flopping and chattering. The set up is not as good as a good alpine set up. But I still have plenty of fun. You'll be fine.

Best Alpine Biner I am a huge fan of these Trangos lightweight wiregates. They are as light as the BD Neutrino but considerably larger and easier to use. They are also economical. Weight: 35 gm for the WireGate Major Axis: 24 kN Minor Axis: 8 kN Gate Open: 8 kN CE Retail Price: $5.95 I know that mgear.com had some on blowout as a quickdraw and that Second Ascent carries singles. I tried a couple and now have quite a few more. For alpine they rock. Has anyone tried the newest Trango ? It claims to be the lightest full sized biner... Dimensions: 93mm x 57mm Gate Opening: 26mm Rope Bearing Radius: 4.5mm Weight: 30gm (1.09 oz) Major Axis: 24kN Minor Axis: 7kN Gate Open: 9kN Price: $7.50 Available: October 20, 2003

I have an older version of the Lazer called the Tambo and it is a pretty damn good boot, well balanced between performance downhill, performance touring, and weight. I'd say take a scale in with you or ask to use the shop's postal or mail scale. I think the weights on the BD site are all in size 8, kind of small size, but it is clearly listed.

I agree with the sentiment expressed by many here: Why not go with shell and a separate insulation layer for a more versatile system? I have climbed a lot in other climates, Rockies, South America, New England, etc. In New England it gets considerably colder that here in the PNW. I used the separate shell and insulation setup in New England (–38 degree with 100 mph winds on Mt. Washington ) and I use it here to. This way I can have a shell (hard or soft) with no insulation for wamer but wetter and/or windier days, insulation for colder days with low winds and no or little precip, and both for wehen you really need it. With an all in one coat, you have one choice instead of three. Why would you sacrifice the versatility? What do you get for giving it up? Nothing that I can see. Am I missing something?

Makes REI sound like it is staffed with highly trained professionals......

What kind of boots? For mountaineering, hiking, backpacking, boots and approach shoes I'd check out Second Ascent in beautiful downtown Ballard.

MattP: I agree...but you can also place it as a huge anchor, or umm. Hmmm, hard to describe here. I have on more than a few occasions placed it from behind two or more large boulders where the sides of the large Hex don't even touch, but the load is on the face of the Hex with the drilled holes with the wire or cord. This is not camming in any way. I've used it this way in belay anchors, not on lead. Not sure if I've communicated that very effectively. So I count this as number four method. noncamming each side long and short, are two and three. And number one is camming mode. Right?

four. That's why I used the word "basically." There are two sides thus two sizes. However, it is correct to say that they can be placed four ways (that I can recall right now), but the size stays the same. Semantics, I know.

Are Hexes lighter than Camalots? #11 Hex - range 2.56/3.91 - weight 206 gms/7.27 ozs #4 Camalot - range 2.9-4.9 - weight 349 gms/12.3 ozs #3.5 Camlot - range 2.4-4.1 - weight 302 gms/10.8 ozs Of course the "range" of a Hex is static, basically two sizes. So it seems that the larger BD Hexes made now-a-days are lighter than the modern Camlots. I think the weight difference increases as the sizes get smaller. I do like to carry along a large Hex or two (#10 & #11) when there is some need for a larger piece at one or two points on a alpine route. I don't own the small and medium hexes.

The tension can be adjusted very easily. Simply open the flicklock, and adjust the tension by turning the nut. Or you can ignore steps 1-4 by buying flicklock poles for rougly the same price.

I have used four different brands/models of adjustable poles (besides a few non-adjustable ski poles). About five years ago, maybe six, I purchased REI best poles. I purchased them figuring I'd just reurn them whenever they broke. They did, and I did. So often it started driving me crazy. Finally I asked for store credit and purchased a pair of BD adjustable flicklock poles. The BD poles were the avalanche probe poles, two section with flicklock. I figured since I skied AT too, they'd be great for most anything. I was right. One thing though, because they are a two section, they don't collapse as small as I would like. So I purchased a pair of BD Expedition three section flicklock poles, the ultilmate poles for trekking, backpacking, mountaineering, climbing approaches, etc. The flicklock system is FAR AND AWAY the superior system. The twists suck. They break. Plain and simple, they break. In winter snow melts, gets inside, refreezes and frost heaves, destroying/damaging the mechanism. This is true of ANY company's twist system. I have never seen a flicklock system break. I have rarely seen a twist system that didn't break (At least under hard use and winter conditions). REI, Leki, whatever, if its a twist, I'll break it. The tension on the BD flicklock can also be adjusted and slippage is non-existant. Once in a while you find something so simple it amazes you that anyone would use anything different. The BD poles with flicklock system is one of those things. BD Poles BD Trekking Poles Good Luck

If I had to buy now and pay retail I'd buyt he REI one in second. Best buy FOR THE MONEY.

BD Lockdown, hands down.

I was there in 1998 and only paid $450.00. I have friends that go there somewhat often and I tried to go back this past summer and found that the rates have really gone up: 9/11, cost of fuel, economy in general? I don't know, but they are more expensive and that sucks. Peru is such a great country and the Blanca rocks!!! Sorry I couldn't be a help to you. I just wanted to let you know that others have had similar problems in the recent past. You may want to wait until January to check. The airlines usually don't schedule out more than 6 months and if the travel volume is low, maybe then they'll lower prices to induce travel. Let us know, because I really want to go back with the wife. Good Luck!!!

A buddy of mine did it and I was surprised how easy it was. Now he is a carpenter, and very used to these kind of projects, but it still didn't seem that tough. (I actually watched him do the whole thing from A-Z). He has been fairly happy with the outcome, though I know he has said he would do things a little different next time. He is in the Valley right now and will be there for a couple of more weeks. I'll have him check in with you when he gets back (He trolls here and occasionally posts under the name "Kris").

Few places on earth offer the conditions of Mt. Washington NH in winter. I've been there three times in late January and found it to be surreal each time. Winds so fast and loud that you cannot hear those standing right next to you as the SCREAM in your ear. Winds so strong you often are forced to crawl. Cold...holy shit cold. It is defintely not a place to play around. Beautiful environment, but very deadly. If you want to mother nature, check it out.

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