sobo

After placing a few of these over the years, I'd like to think I got the mad skilz to do it right. My holes tend to be a damn-near tolerance fit, and that's in granodiorite, to boot. Agreed; no argument there, bill. Although I must "confess" that some of my earliest bolts are still in use and bomber, from what I've heard... They go in like butter in limestone/karst, like a bitch in Tuscarora sandstone (think Seneca and New River Gorge), and reasonably quite well in Idaho granodiorite. I've placed a few at Lightning Dome on the S Fork of the Clearwater, and it takes me about 20 minutes from the first bash to clipping in the draw. YMMV. Might have to take you up on that. And I have never been accused of being new skewl...

Mark, I'm no photographer or producer, but here is my set-up: The complete Mammut bolt kit (exploded view) The 15 mm Mammut bolt (exploded view) The bolt is about 1.5 inches long after the bolt is fully sunk in the hole and the "snap off" portion of the head is broken away. The cutting head is integral with the bolt - no drill required. Driving the Mammut bolt with hammer and holder The "snap off" portion of the bolt head is jammed tight into the holder once the hammering begins. The holder is rotated slowly about the intended hole while you repeatedly hammer the strike plate. This striking and rotation performs the cutting action. Once the hole is drilled, blow it out, insert the truncated cone into the cutting end of the bolt, and reinsert the assembly into the hole. Drive solidly with the hammer against the strike plate until the threaded end of the bolt is flush with the rock face. The bolt is now set. Tightening the stud After the bolt is set flush with the rock, strike the holder solidly with one glancing blow parallel to the rock face to snap off the spent bolt head. Thread the stud through the hanger and into the bolt and tighten with the Allen head end of the holder. The bolt is now ready for use. Removing the spent bolt head Use the tapered drift pin to remove the spent bolt head (the "snap off" portion). This requires the use of the hammer to beat the drift pin through the drift pin hole and force the removal of the spent head. The holder is ready to drill the next bolt. Don't know why you would say this. These things are all the fuck over Europe... It is indeed a drop-in style anchor. The obvious difference is that a separate drill (power or otherwise) and bit is not required since the bolt itself is the cutting bit. I don't know of what other drill you speak that I allegedly described. I was describing only my Mammut kit in my earlier posts. And I don't know what relevance hand drilling at job sites has to do with hand drilling for rock climbing anchors. And I've never power drilled a climbing anchor - never intend to neither (but that's another discussion).

Chin up, pink. It's not you that they don't like, it's your... Naaaaah, you're right. they don't like you. Nighty night!

what's wrong, pinkie? feeling lonely cuz no one will talk to you?

YEA!!!1 Minx is here! :kisss:

I wonder if that kind of scare tactic constitutes a crime in this day and age. I imagine it would have to come with some sort of written (or phoned in) threat of the "danger" to actually qualify as a felony.

nobody talks about climbing on this site. It's cc.com Oh wait! Nobody actually climbs on this site. We just talk about it some. And rag on k'bone a lot.

Fuck, gurl! 5 hours!!!1?? Did they pay you for that time?

I heartily enjoy it. It makes me feel better about myself. Like driving an ugly sports car...

Run, Forrest! RUN!!!1

Well, granted if it's overhanging, I can see that you only have half a rope with which to work. But that wasn't made abundantly clear in tomtom's explanation. The way tomtom explained it, it was as if one could never tag gear more than half a rope length. Clearly, I have tagged gear for longer distances than that. But then, I haven't climbed El Cap...

This confuses me... is not the tag rope the same length as the lead rope? If so, then why can't gear be sent up to the leader all the way to the next belay? What am I missing?

That was truly a fine read. Thanks for that Lowell. And a multitude of thanks to Wolf Bauer, of course, for all that he has done for our chosen distraction and for mountain rescue. :tup:

Rudy, Do you want to carry this conversation on here or in your thread in Spray? I went to Spray...

"Would you like a rap rings with that?"

He had the audacity to present his decisions in an honest way. He chose NOT to lose his life in the effort to extract the tourists. In so doing, he was the last hope for those who were still out flapping in the breeze. He got roasted in Krackower's book and the US media continued the cold war hangover. I agree. He had his shit together, fer sure. And Krakauer's lambasting him for not using oxygen to save more tourists was a low blow. And the media siding with Krakauer, well, that was just plain disingenuous. For you folks that have only read Into Thin Air, you need to read The Climb for the other side of the story.

"The wait to get on Infinite Bliss is fucking unreal these days!"

This is cc.com. I just skim things then jump to conclusions. And that way you get your exercise and so keep boi-boobs down to minimal levels.

Hey Keith, don't blame me! Brian started it! neener neener

Dad was a civilian in the Corps of Engineers, working in the Middle East for several years in the mid-to-late 60s. Came back home and the Corps wanted him to go back. Mom said "no way, you take me with you." Dad said "no way, they'll stone you for not wearing saris and veils." Dad goes back to the Powers That Be at the Corps, and explains the situation. He's given five alternatives: 1. Go back to Saudi alone and fuck your family, 2. Stay in Walla Walla and watch your career take a dive, 3. Go to Tennesse and play with the Corps on their TVA shit, 4. Go to Chicago and do some Corps shit in that shithole, 5. Go to Pisa for 4 years. A no-brainer, wouldn't you say?

Not one goddamned bit. My folks did it to us for a 4-year stint in Italy when I was 9. And for another 1-year stint when I was 15. Didn't hurt any of us one goddamned bit. Do iiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiit!

fukkin lucky bastard

Don'cha just luv a woman who's secure in her own skin? :kisss:, arch

Is this to where you've narrowed your search for your sabbatical?