crazyjizzy

The kayak place in Redmond ( can't remember the name, close to V-world), used to rent ww kayaks.

Jason (ie: shit for brains), Like ChucK said, you were not respomding to my point before you started off telling us how great you are because you are a PROFESSIONAL MOUNTAIN GUIDE. A CZ has added mechanical advantages, but also increase the need for pulleys by 50%. A team of two in a big creavasse is always fucked. You have to anchor the rope, place a main haul anchor, pad the lip, etc. All this with only the gear that the upper person has available. And your point about CPR, face it, in the aforementioned scenerio, CPR is only going to prolong death. I bet I know alot more than you do, but those pictures of you in Red Rocks sure are cute. I am kinda ugly and scraggly. [ 05-24-2002, 04:34 PM: Message edited by: crazyjz ]

Jason (ie: shit for brains), I have probably been climbing longer than you have been alive. I have also been on expiditions on several continents. Bite me. [ 05-23-2002, 01:01 PM: Message edited by: crazyjz ]

Thats right! All by myself! I left without ponying up my share of $. I had it in my pocket, and forgot. I'll give some bucke to AlpineK (cause he makes more PC's than I do), and he can either buy himself some Pabst Blue Ribbon, or contribute $ for me at the next Pub Club. Either way, AlpineK in now responsible for my debts.

Ade, Are you saying to use a C instead of a Z? A C is 2:1, while a Z is 3:1. Will, A ZC is 6:1 ( 3:1 x 2:1) AK, You rule, great pics dude. Jason, If things are so fucked up that you have to use a ZC with only one person, and only one rope to yard someone out, then I am afraid that someone is dead.

Smoot wasn't invited to that kegger. It was Pat McNerney batchlor party, and Smoot tagged along as Jim's sycophant. If Dean wasn't so drunk, he would have given the boot to Smoot.

I love that man!!!!

Whats the name, and/or address? Thank you so very very much.

Good God, what a stupid wussy question. I dropped my belay seat on each of my first three El Cap routes, each time wearing a Whillians. A belay seat ( also known as a butt bag) will be fine for anything up to Mescalito. What you refer to as a belay seat is really a bosuns' chair, and is almost always not needed. What would the late Batso say.

The flight services will sell you gas that is already up at the Kahiltna. They will also have an idea how much you will need, based on years of experience. Don't sweat it.

Lets call Liberty Bell "Mt. Big Jon"

Eric, Your right, we didn't do the Inferno Route. We did the longest route on Kang., the 1965 route. It was good, with lots of varied climbing.

Ray, The "Harder", "Heller", Dragontail thing is WAY over your head. I live in a dimension with very few others.

I remember the old parking lot, and I remember Otis's van before the tires were slashed, and all the shit was burned up. The same could be done to Bite Me's car.

Ray, You said it was "Harder" when "they did it". Wasn't it "Heller"? I bet this one goes over everyones head.

AlpineK and I did the Inferno Route in September of one year. It was a great route, and I have no idea where all this scree was. We thought the approach was casual.

For a Guide/Writer/Grad Student you aren't very smart. How did this end up in Gear Review, and why aren't you capable of basic research like this. Your a "Guide" for Gods sake!

How about the Original Route on Proboscus? Twelve pitches, 5.9 A3, with aid on only three pitches. Kroese's book has the topo. And of course Lotus. And the Butt on Mt. Sir James McBrein. See the 1974 or 75 AAJ for Galen Rowells write up.

Offwidth: The MAIN problem with desalinization, is that it takes ALOT of POWER!

I am neither for nor against this power plant, I do other stuff for a living now, but I am still interested in the "power" of power wheeling. 1) This plant will be a co-generation facility. What this means, is that excess thermal energy developed during the course of buisness will be turned into electricity. Cogens in the NW are typically located in refineries( Texaco, and BP both installed gas turbines in the early ninties), stokerboilers in garbage burners (dead, dead, dead), hog fuel stokerboilers at sawmills and pulpmills(all over the place, including Kimberly Clark in Everett), gas turbines waste heat boilers at lumber kilns (Sumas Energy 1), and gas turbine boilers at large food processors. (Umatilla). By law (1974), the local grid is required to purchase this power at a very favorable rate. This was not meant to give rise to Enron type monsters, but was meant to fill a electrical power void felt in California from 1974 to 1986. This worked well, until 1999. 2) Although most everyone is rather intellegent, the power buisness has always acted like sheep. In large part, the reason the west has had an excess of electricity until recently was the fact that everyone over-reacted to Californias power short fall in the late seventies. This was the era of WOOPS, cogens out the ass, and coal burners all over Wyoming, Utah, Arizona, etc. Washington didn't need nukes, we wanted to sell the power to CA. 3) First generation cogens, which relied on waste wood from sawing and pulping, are closing all over the west. Several of these are located in the Bend, Redmond, Prinville areas. This netloss should be balanced out. 4) The choice is a lot of little plants or a few BIG ONES. 5) We all use power, unless you have a bicycle power computer. 6) This plant which we are talking, is clearly a co-gen. Wether it is slated to be sighted at a preexisting industial facility, or a new one I don't know. 7) The water fight is a strong one, although it is easy for these plants to buy water rights from a failing sawmill (for example). 8) Alot of the anti propaganda is pure BS. "Next to " Smith Rocks? 1,500' plume? Bullshit!!! 9) I don't care either way, but people should know more of the facts of the power industry. It is not all BIG PLANTS. I have worked on these gas turbine plants that abutted residential areas, and farms with no problems.

Wrong, wrong, wrong. I do post creative threads! I have been busy garnering support for a new powerplant in your backyard. That way, you will be able to quit your job at Dairy Queen, and get a real macho job cleaning out Sani-Cans. With all the construction workers in town, I'm sure your mom will be able to get a gig too!

Nine miles is along ways, it's not a coal burner, it's a natural gas plant. I would guess that it will take up about ten acres, and be about eighty feet high. There are farm buildings much bigger. It really should have no impact on the park at all. A more reasonable arguement against it would have to do with its impact on ground water. Save yourself for the good fight.

I was in the power plant buisness for years. Most plans are mearly pipedreams, and a 1500' "plume" is highly unlikely. Sighting considerations are enormous, and lastly, media reports are most often in error. I would say, that in reality, there may be a preliminary plan to build a gas turbine/steam turbine combo in the area near the highway, but not next to Smith. It is a little too early to worry, when things cost a million dollars per megawatt, plans evolve quite drastically.

AlpineK is tough, but not that tough. When he got an attitude cause Rat threw his 'biner into the weeds, things got nasty. We all headed up to private Idaho, but after a couple of routes, it was decided that a real fight with real anger, and possible blood shed was better than climbing. AlpineK may not be as tough as he was in 1991. That was the year of turmoil in Moab, the Rake incident with "That Fuckin' Mallet", Otis's Van with Barnes, and Kit and Charlie teaching us shit. I think that AlpineK and Allison are just smitten with each other, and are just acting like sixth graders.

Germans and rules, that has really helped the world huh? German style "rule" following won't go as smoothly in a land of iconoclastic individuals like us in Freedom(Snohomish) County. God Bless me , Bronco, and rat (temporary resident of Freedom County).