erik

look on petzl's website http://petzl.com/FRENG/tech/techframe.html they have a fall force calculator and all the math an aspiring math/physics dork could ever want. plus all sorts of other cool tech stuff. i learned i how lead real rock from this site and pics from a black diamond catalogue.

me got a couple ole' coon skins dat you tie off wit a bungy cord. they are recyclable. i have had fun wit dem fer years.

there is a reason he is the last one!? count me out though i am too busy lcimbing outside in the bad weather to go to the gym. i do applaud your idea.

john, i don't think dru works at the burger place. so it will probably be just a burger. dru erik

john does she have a younger sister

mr goodtime, the approach is just another approach. sure there are bad sections and there are good sections, but in the end if you find the right game trails and there are some peices of flagging out there(though who knows where they end up) it is just another standard approach to the mtns. it is not long and you can plan your approach from the road. good luck and have fun.

you can have my simuli rope. it is sitting in the back of my truck right now. 100ft long. and ready to be retired. price two pints of stout. email and we can meet up. esnyder123@hotmail.

W you type faster than me. so i will second your motion. to transending! here here! competion bad- isn't that what wars are? [This message has been edited by erik (edited 04-11-2001).]

i clmbed the north ridge in 97' may or june. me memory is fuzzy. we left helitrope around 2pm and camped way out on the coleman. thomas is right about navigating the glacier, especially this year. we positioned our camp, so we would not have to carry over. worked great. we left camp at 1am and arrived on the summit around 7:30ish. the route is straight forward with the single in pitch going very easily, though i would say when we did it, it was closer to ai3 or so. we took two tools and one ice screw. it is nice to be on top of the mountian when all the rest of parties from the easton and coleman routes show up and you are already there. then you get to desecned before them. we desceded quicklry back to our camp and hurried home. reachinf back to the car around 1ish. for less the 24hrs on baker. next time i do it, i will be going from the parking lot in a push.

scott, in placing most larger cams you have to be carefule. you should place it tighter then you think. that it atleast what i have learned and it seems to work well. i have yet to get ANY gear stuck. (knock on wood!) fred as far as trango cams, i would have to agree w/ any else. if you are money concious then they are the way to go. though rumor has it that they don't last. better informed you are the better shopper you are. though when it comes down to it, spend YOUR money on what YOU think is best.

i don't think any rating system really matters in the long run. i personally give a shit what any climb is rated. i can do it or not. ratings is a way to measure yourself against other climbers. that is not what i climb for. once the world ends we won't need to worry about ratings. or guide books. it is a nice idea, but so is the metric system.

next time anyone sees mike, buy him a beer. he has put a lot off effort and taken a lot of heat for the whole thing. mike had the best intentions and still does. right now as we toil away at our jobs, he is really working by replacing the ladders. i think that the new setup will be quite nice and make the ladder alot more friendly. newbies got a lot more to worry about then clipping sub-standard bolts. about 50% or more of the bolts were actually 1/8" sketch masters and not those bomber 1/4"s. plus redoing the ladder today is alot harder since i have his lead line in t-town, so he has to use some 43m 4x4 tow rope. jah

got a princeton-tec l.e.d. headlamp. very nice. after needing to replace my zoom(for like the 5th time) i decided to jump onto the techie badwagon and get a l.e.d. lamp. i looked at the tikka, the size really turned me on. though after inspection of this little lamp, i saw the following...no gaskets, triple aaa batteries, no adjustibility & you can't replace the bulbs. you cannot have a lamp thats not water resistant in the pnw, so instantly the tikka is shot down. after looking at the tec light. i saw all the features that worked. plus you get a stardard bulb that focuses. another thing that i learned is that it has a voltage regulator so the batteries run at full power until they die. my super tech friend, says that thats not a good option, since you don't know when the batts die. i repsonded, "hey, bro after a trip i am going to change the batts anyway, especially if i know that i will use it alot. the light emmited is adequite for all but the big search. i would recommed this lamp to anyone. plus princeton-tec makes it in the u.s.a. and stands behind their warranties. my $.03

bd helmet is pretty nice- though you are right about the headlamp attachment points. when i was first looking at the helmet in a large super store that specalizes in expensive car camping with a weird shaped altar to plastic, i accidently broke it off. so careful, since this was not broke in a live action sequence. oyu might die!

jf, l-town is ready to go. been out there a couple of times. dry and no snow. s.c.w. is still pretty adventursome right now, but anything south facing is bone dry. see you out there. jah

charlie, did you and v.p. pull the column over or what!? mike saw you guys going out there, i guess i missed you as i came down the trail eariler. hope you had fun in j-tree jah

i talk the shit and take it as well, sometime not well, but i can't be a spoilsport. i personally wouldn't be in your shoes as i got rid of my confrontational side in the valley last fall. once i did that me soul was light enough to send routes a grade harder. jah

yeah wallstein! i thought little kid questions belonged in the newbie section. do i get a sticker if i get to the top!

ray 110% the time i take no offense to any of your comments, as i to love to give a good ole' fashioned ribbing myself. but to name people, that you are not sure thats who it really is, now that is rude. i personally really..really do not believe it is yoder...he is not mean spirited! i have known him for years and look up to him as a climbing mentor..nothing he has ever taught falls into that category. unless you really know the facts i would not speculate.(except on route beta thats fun ) wether you and him don't like each other has no bearing on the post or anything. so i please ask you to retract your statement about him. i don't think he even knows about internet anyway. thanks ray

yeah that fall that seb grieve took in that movie is just about the sickest one i've seen. though a couple weeks ago some dude took a fatty on j-gardens....good thing his much smaller belayer was tied into that burned stump. by the way who burned that stump...very unattractive.

Wake Up! It’s time to go to work! Thursday again! Time to head out for the weekend. Phone calls made, plans hammered out, logistics figured. Leavenworth again! This ideal little town nestled in the rain shadow of the Wenatchee Mountains is blessed with an absurd amount of granite to climb. The canyon slopes are just littered with domes, cliff, boulders and buttress all begging for the modern free climber to ascend. The history of Washington rock climbing is deeply rooted in Leavenworth, the establishment of free climbs on Castle Rock in Tummwater canyon dates all the way back to the late forties. Fred Becky, Pete Schoening, Jim Yoder, Peter Croft and many others have left their mark on the cliffs; establishing climbs that are still today test pieces and classics alike. In my opinion this is the choice place to enjoy a four-day hiatus from the “real” world. Mike and I head out to John’s house to gather him up, always an ordeal. After all the barating, eating, slack line walking, hacky sack and coffee we pull out of the compound and head for the hills. Being chased from the West Side by a constant rain, we make no haste in escaping to the east. The constant debate over the safety of white water kayaking, the ethics of climbing and how hot Steph Davis really is, lets the drive pass like a sport climb approach. Monroe, rain…Index, rain…Stevens Pass, more rain…and finally Cole’s corner, moonlight. Once again the eastside of the mountains shines through as a refugee camp for moss brained westsiders looking for dry stone! With the approach of Icicle junction I can relax now, 5 more minutes and I can escape the confines of this infernal beast and let the beauty of the mountains envelop my spirit and use the privy. Creeping into the campground (if a diesel can!), it looks about half full, though only a few cars have that dirtbag look to them. Admittedly I don’t count Subaru Outback’ as a climbers’ car, or at least brethren so maybe there are more climbers. 11 p.m. and the drive has left me restless (I slept most of the way), I guess we are going to have to get more beer cause I’m drinkin’. Drinking without a campfire, for some reason drains any life out of the party, so maybe we won’t have to get more beer. Zipped into the sleeping bags once again brings on chattiness, route ideas are tossed around, shit talking ensues and we are asleep. When working I can guarantee that I will wake up an hour late. But when climbing without effort I wake up an hour early. A bad thing? Nah, it just gives me time to read my book and drink my tea with a little peace and quiet. Then again watching the sunrise is pretty nice too! The second round of boiling water and jostling of the coffee press sparks Mike and John’s interest in the day. “BOYS” I yell. “Time to wake up and go to work.” John springs from his bag and tackles me, “DIE T-BALL!” With a couple kidney punches I pass on the job of coffee boy to him. With coffee made and a breakfast of yogurt and granola handled, let the hacky sack begin! We have devised a warm up ritual that allows the energy to follow from our bodies and regain the balance we lost sleeping on the cold, hard ground. After running from one end to the other end of the campsite attempting for that all elusive ‘hacky’ it is decided that we need to slack line. But first more coffee! These spring time trips with the cold mornings really take some getting use to. In the winter you know it is cold out and make the “smart” decision to stay in your bag a little longer. Winter at least shortens transition time. Wake up! Go climbing, that’s it. Now the altar of the sun must be set up! Us westsiders really appreciate this religion, as the Mother Nature controls sun worshipping on the westside much like the Chinese control Tibet. It exists and we let you now that, but we don’t want you to see it. With the slack line set up and the hauling systems removed, it’s time to practice my circus tricks. Admittedly Barnum and Bailey are not coming for me soon, but I can at the least salvage Rock Monkey honor by giving it my best. Watching Mike waltz up and down the line as if strutting like a runway model, I decided that it is time. With the eloquent language of a Hillbilly, “Pack it up girlz we goin’ scalin’!”

good deal dru, we can call it the trans ameri-da fell good expedition for lackys and their little sisters. maybe with an angle we can pick up some sponsers. i once had an idea for the clean up of everest ad other big mtns, though it got shot down by some oversensitive capital hill types. "Booty Call 2000" imagine all the gear we could get from exisiting cache's and bodies littered all over the mtns. i felt that it follows in other famous recent expeditions to exploit the dead and famous. bad taste i'm sure! but we all gotta laugh sometimes!

haven't seen this thread show up yet, so here it is. i have to truthfully admit that i have never taken the "BIG" ride, though i took and gumby lead fall on stern farmer, my first aid lead about 5 yrs ago. cam hooks, brass nutz and 185lbs beginner equals upside down & a spooked me. though the fall was short, it did enough damage that i have always frowned upon the aid leads since. though currently i have opened myself to new things again and have taken aiding back into interest. so physically the fall was nothing, but mentally it was a big one. free climbing, somehow falls don't seem as bad. maybe it is the fact that usually you know when you are going to fall. though now a days i don't see as many falls, just more cries of "TAKE!" who else has a better story than mine? probably shouldn't have started this one, cause i'm sure it will catch up with me soon. who wants to belay me this weekend?

whillans! save us from this!

dru, good news just heard back from olde' english and the "royal british climbing group for the mentally inept history buffs" they are on board.