David_Parker

I can give beta here or in a private email. I did it in winter so my beta might be different than for summer, but shouldn't be that different! I could make it a trip report if I got really motivated and was encouraged by a few readers. DPP jjdparker@msn.com

I have had a wisperlight and an xgk and I use the wisperlight more because it fits inside my pot. I also like the control factor although I usually have to use the tiny wire poker to unclog the jet frequently (I have one duct taped to each one of my fuel bottles.) XGK users....is your fuel shaft on viagra...permanantly stiff!?? Mine is an old model and I always thought a big improvement would be a flexible fuel supply line. I suppose the stiff shaft alows for better overall support but I have not figured out a good way to pack the darn thing! I also don't like the pot support wires because they swing around way too easily. Overall I really like MSR because I can take them totally apart and put them back together in the field w/out major tools. My next stove will be one I can HANG! Any suggestions? BTW, my first stove was a peak one and after the thing leaked and caught on fire, I drop kicked it across the parking lot in Leavenworth! That thing is about as good as the Apollo 13 lunar modual! DPP

Aidan, I have done the Black Ice. Let me know if you want beta. DPP

May I suggest finishing college and then working your way as quickly as possible to being your own boss. Then you can be gainfully self-unemployed as much as you want! DPP

Glad to hear there is a "lead-only" area now. This should drastically improve the situation when it is crowded! Wish it was there when I went! What section of the park is it? Everything downstream of the bridge? What happens when someone raps down and "chickens out" by not pulling their rope? Do they get an ice axe in the forehead? Who is monitoring this? Hopefully it's just casual and by honor only! DPP

Shit, I missed it. Last time I was on a ferry boat. This time I was in an airplane. Oh well I'm in Canada now....ice heaven! DPP

I'm with Alex...for those dates you'll be lucky to have good ice even in greater Banff area. I will post a report or two while I'm there to give you an idea of how it's holding out. (I leave tomorrow) Otherwise, you might start thinking about alpine routes or climbing on seracs on a glacier or something! DPP

I'd be really curious to get some feedback on protocol for Abalakov (sp?) anchors for rappeling. When you set one up, should you expect that someone else might use it? If so, then should you put a rap ring on it or one of those screw-shut chain links from the hardware store so your rope doesn't burn the perlon? What do you do when you come across one in place? How safe is it? How many rope pulls render it "unsafe" if there is no ring or link? In the summer, is a bunch of perlon at the bottom of a climb any better/worse than conduit? I usually back up the first person rapping with a screw, but pull it for the last person. Is this the best way? What do you think?

sorry, I put this in the wrong section!!! I'll be more caeful next time. DPP

I'd be really curious to get some feedback on protocol for Abalakov (sp?) anchors for rappeling. When you set one up, should you expect that someone else might use it? If so, then should you put a rap ring on it or one of those screw-shut chain links from the hardware store so your rope doesn't burn the perlon? What do you do when you come across one in place? How safe is it? How many rope pulls render it "unsafe" if there is no ring or link? In the summer, is a bunch of perlon at the bottom of a climb any better/worse than conduit? I usually back up the first person rapping with a screw, but pull it for the last person. Is this the best way? What do you think?

Having just read Challenge of the North Cascades (highly recommended), I'd like to hear a little more about this Fred guy! How old is he now and does he still crank? Talk about a legend!!! They ought to make a movie about him! Is he writing an autobiography? DPP

You can try BD directly too. I bought one of my X-15's directly from Chris Harmston. DPP

Wes, since I just bought a pair of Cobras (serious wallet pain!) I was thinking it would be some relief to sell. However I do my fair share of Alpine climbing and I'm thinking of putting my alaska picks back on these and keeping them for such. So I guess until I'm really desperate, I'll hold on. I also have a son so keeping them may be prove beneficial. Just curious to why you seek this tool specifically. My hammer is 45 and my adze is 40. DPP

What is BRS? I have a pair of X-15's with all rubber shafts. Not sure if what you are looking for or if I want to sell. Just checking. DPP

I spoke with the web master and he said it was cool to do this but was to busy himself. Instead of searching through "local ice" and every week someone asking "what are conditions at Banks Lake?" I thought we could put up a few SPECIFIC THREADS for conditions. Certainly Banks lake is popular enough...of course it should include the area in General. If someone wants to post something on Lilloet or BC Coast Range Ice Conditions, start that as a NEW thread. Others can include "Cascade Alpine Conditions" "Volcano Conditions", "Back Country Ski conditions", Etc, etc..... Eventually Jon will fix this in the web page. This is just an idea and if it's bad then just say so and I won't take it personally. DPP

The last time I did aid was on Liberty Crack in 1986 and I didn't know about any of this stuff. Hell, I used a 16 oz. stanley hammer! I don't aspire to aid but I always liked it enough I'd like to try the Thin Red Line. So anyone wanting to try out this "new" stuff with me? I'm trying to break out of my old fashioned ways! How many maniacs (person from Maine..moi) does it take to change a light bulb? Three. One to change the bulb, two to sit on the porch and talk about how good the old one was! Is climbing with Cobras considered aide? Cheating? DPP

Mike, how far up the ghost can you get and is 4x4 required for any/some of the way? I want to do Synchronicity but my partner only has 2 wheel rice burner for a vehicle. Did you stay at rampart while on the icefields parkway part of your trip? If you climbed professors then how did terminator or welcome to canada look?.... How was top pitch of Louise? Also, Bourgeau left is very thin at the bottom right now (I have a photo) but a great climb I would highly reccomend with easy approach and safe from avy danger.... Can a 10 m climb really be 5 or 5+. I did his/hers last year in similar conditions and even TR'd on the rock to ice routine, but Even though a few moves were hard it just seems it needs to be longer to get that rating....ahhhhh.....ICE...who gives a shit really, right? BTW: For you guys drooling over this stuff, GO GET DRURY for a close to home Canada experience. I saw it yesterday and it still looks great!!! DPP

Thanks Tom, it was worth the drive the Leavenworth! DPP PS: Drury still looks great guys...go get it!

Hey Mike, obviously you have internet access which is great because now you can give us daily reports on conditions. I'm heading up there on Wednesday, 28th for nine days. I'm armed with new Cobras thanks to this web site and they will first touch Canadian ice! Be safe and keep the reports coming! How about a report on your drive since it was so hyped up! DPP

My vote is overwhelmingly for the NAI. Like Peter said, the focus is beyond book learning and puts you through the necessary skills in field work. I can't stress how important this is. The best point I got out of my course (Utah, 1984) was how to not be in one!!! I can't believe the idiots around here that think because they have a beacon and shovel, they have a pass to travel in hazardous terrain! I guess the point that was driven home to me through my course was your brain is the best tool to save you from an avalanche and the NAI will teach you what you need to know and you will get hands on practice out in the field....practice, practice., practice!!! DPP

I have the Motorolas and they are GREAT! I use them for a variety of situations but not yet for climbing. Skiing at Whistler I was able to communicate most of the time. Range is at least 2 miles but much less if the 2 radios are in a basin separated by a ridge. Line of sight is important for max range. Erik and I decided it would have been nice to have these on Dury as we could not communicate when we were at each end of the rope both on the way up and down. It would have been handy for the rap that left him short and I had no clue what he was doing down there! Anyway, they are light, weatherproof and I can imagine hundreds of situations where they will be handy. Ditto to Alex's comments. I just have to try to remember to bring them along! I got mine at Costco for about $70.00 pair. There are a bunch off channels and sub-channels that come in handy when at places like a ski resort where lots of people are using them. My first test was when I was at the sea kayak symposium with my 5 year old son and I wanted to stay in touch with him while I paddled around. Perfect! DPP

I believe the thread was about bolts on sport ICE climbs. It appears to have crossed over to rock climbing. Ice is Ice and rock is rock and mixed is mixed. Lets try to keep things separate and particular to what we are discussing. I don't know of many rock climbers who head up expanding flakes KNOWING that it may have a distinct possibilty of falling off. If they did, they probably wouldn't want to be attached to it in any way....which was my point in my previous post. You can not make a general rule that pervades all. If you are ice climbing or doing a mixed route and come across a bolt, don't be offended by it! You may be better than the first ascentionist and if it is more sporting for you, don't clip it. But in ice and mixed, what you are climbing is probably a lot different than the 1st ascentionist or your friend who did it last week climbed. Also, bolting ethics seem to be different in different areas. Dan comes from NH, a VERY traditional ethics area. A bolt on the mixed pich of the Black Dike would be chopped in an instant! (The first ascent was soloed!) But if ice formed at Smith Rock, couldn't we expect to find bolts? Lets try to keep an open mind and not get so worked up and impose our personal ethics on everyone. Be yourself, lead by example, but don't expect everyone to follow.

THE BOLT SAVED MY FRIENDS LIFE! There is a climb in Provo canyon that rarely forms. It appears every so often on the 3rd pitch of Stairway to Heaven. I'm not sure who did the first ascent, it may have been Alex. Regardless, when Alex came to do it, the dagger was not touched down. It required a delicate placement, followed by a one arm pull up, locking off and placing another tool higher until he could establish some feet (oh so gingerly). To protect these moves and the climb, Alex placed one bolt fairly high in the rock behind the dagger. There may have been another bolt from a previous attempt lower down. The climb was done without incident. A few years later, my friend Cord decided to give it a go. He clipped the bolts and gunned for the top. Somewhere near the top, a tool placement fractured the whole thing and Cord and dagger came down hard. Fortunately Cord was NOT attached to the dagger with any ice screws. Had he been, I would not be climbing with him today as he would have been 3 pitches down at the bottom of the climb dead. He was seriously injured with a broken hip the worst of his injuries. I think there are times where good climbers are the unfortunate recipients of objective danger. Ice climbing is dangerous and just because we do it doesn't mean we have a DEATH WISH. Isn't that what bolts are made for??? DPP PS. The climb's name is Prophet on a Stick. Alex's last name is Lowe.

Next thing I knew an hour had passed by!!! Back to work..... DPP

While I appreciate sarcastic humor as much as anybody, I don't think some of these posts are very appropriate, especially since they are coming from people with an alias. This is contributing to the general downfall of what could be a great website. Perhaps we can just start a thread to contain all this stuff. Then when someone like Pete, (who appears to be a "real" climber), tries to get some serious beta, he doesn't think we're a bunch of Mark Twights! DPP