David_Parker

A friend who doesn't climb anymore just gave me two PMI 1/2 ropes, 8.8mil, 60M, ultradry. These ropes were still factory packaged, however they are 3 years old. They were stored in a cool dry place. Should I have any concerns? Also, I'm curious as to the best way to mark the middle. Is magic marker or sharpie ok?

So far I'm solo driving from downtown Seattle (actually Bainbridge Island) I have room for 1 or 2 or would be willing to help with expences in your car. I'm thinking of leaving Fri afternoon. email me directly at jjdparker@msn.com.

I'm interested. See "MORE ICE WANTED" post. Perfect time to check each other out. I'm glad you are up front about this too because I have same concerns. Something tells me we're all qualified though...just a hunch. Anyone want to take a look at North face of Spider with me? Soon!!!!

Lisa, checking the weather forecast, you may have a lot of drinking pals! I assumethe party is rain or shine?

ONLY ONE WEEK LEFT! I'd say at this point it's a free for all! Anyone left on the list should jump in. Looks like we're set up for a great ending. Maybe Dru and Eric can save their concluding posts for the party so we'll all be in suspense. Anyone not on the list should jump in now. Unless anyone has any serious objections, I think we should finish this by Friday and then it can be read at the mega-fest this weekend. Nothing like a deadline, huh!

I personally think this fall is a great oportunity to climb some alpine ice routes. It's a fine line between ice being in, days getting shorter, and snows at higher elevations coming. Last years low snow pack means more ice is exposed. The time to act is NOW! With perseverance, you can get to/on it. Mt. Buckner was no problem. I'm looking to do at least one or two more climbs this fall of a north facing route with ice. I'm not particular...Shucksan, Baker, Spider, J-Berg, anything else you think of. Hell, I'd like to do Liberty Ridge right now. If you are thinking like me, get in touch!

Good point, but you won't have to worry about me personally. I'm the king of no trace! (except for billy-bobs!) That's Canadian for abalakov anchors, aka v-threads. Is a flag at a summit any more "trash" than a summit register?

Dan, it's been awhile since I summited R-dog. I have an itching to go to altitude again. However this route does not appeal to me. Any others you'd consider. I'm not sure of your experience so choose accordingly. Fuher finger, Ptaramigan ridge, ????.

I might have an extra set because I just helped a friend move who had about 3 pair and he doesn't ski anymore. Need dimensions though. Post here.

One man's garbage is another man's treasure! So are all those prayer flags in the Himalayas garbage too?

My son is six and we have been doing outdoor activities since he was 4 months old. I like what Dan said and agree. The most important thing is to have fun and when it isn't fun anymore (for the kid) it's time to stop, turnaround, go back, give him/her a hug and tell them they did great, etc. I got my son into climbing by buying him a box of climbing holds for his birthday. Then we built a climbing wall in my garage. It goes up 8 feet then another 8 at a 45 deg overhang. I have a top rope to put him on belay. The first thing I taught him was to fall. I wanted him to trust the rope and me. He's always been active and took to it right away. We've been to a few crags and even did an "alpine" climb. I try not to push him too hard but just enough to try to discover new "territory." But the most important thing is to have fun and the rest will come. Is it Ok to spray for my son? Yesterday he climbed two routes on the REI pinnacle, a 5.6 and 5.7. Not bad for age 6!

Dan, a very well expressed thread and I truly hope Alex's kids got the messages that you think (hope) they did. I just hope they didn't get them because someone told them that was what their father was like. I have to wonder how much time Alex actually spent climbing with his kids. Unless they climbed with him, his spirit to be known by them was distant. If Conrad is slowing down, hopefully he'll be able to bridge the gap and show them instead of tell them. I love to climb and I hope to climb a lot, sometimes with and sometimes without my son. My fear is that when I'm with him he has this tendancy to say "I know, Dad!" and I know you can only really learn by time on experience. I don't want to discourage him by telling him he doesn't know because he's only 6! Gotta love his attitude though. Sometimes I think kids learn they can't do things when previously they thought they could. Climbing keeps them sharp, confident, goal oriented and promotes self esteem. Keep climbing and teach your children well.

I believe the US Military would love to contact you. They'll be needing to test special gear that works in the Himalayan altitude, the sub-alpine, rocky canyons, deep gorges and deserts. You might not like the pack they'll have for you, but the rest of the gear will be heavy. The only glitch is that you have to give them something back, but you knew that, right? So in exchange, you'll have to teach recruits how to climb and place gear, 'cause it could prove to be useful in places east of here. If you're real good, they'll give you more gear and a promotion. I'm pretty sure the US Military likes boys with huge balls and you obviously qualify. Hell, you're probably as good as you think you are and the world is your oyster! Give some feed back if you're not to busy working. Be all you can be!

Way to go Bozo! Will you be my new hero?

Wooooah guys, this is a good topic. It is NOT inviting more commentary of whether bolts should be or not to be. It is dealing with reality and the reality is I don't place bolts, but I do clip them. I don't think I'm the only one. Many of these bolts are anchors at belay or rap stations where the rest of the route is clean. If it's a time bomb then I want to know about it....and I support replacing it. Like it or not, the bolt is already there! We're talking about routes in guidebooks that note the mere existance of bolts. Some books even qualify the manky ones. If it needs to be replaced, then I support it and will gladdly contribute. I cancelled all my climbing rag subcriptions over 10 years ago because of the bolt or not to bolt issue raging so hard. It got boooooooring!! But again, this is reality.....NOT booooooring. Lets here it!! This is a contructive thread worth keeping the trash talk out of!!!!!! If you must spray, put it on a different thread before we get off on a tangent.

Phil, You are right, different beta from different folks, but I'm definitely not spraying. Who you believe is up to you but if I was looking for beta, I'd go with the person who was there, on the climb. If I had questions, I'd email him. I don't think summitseeker even made it to the base of the route. In another post I think he mentioned they looked at it through binocs from Boston peak. Not exactly a straight on view. They also expressed concern about having to end run a bunch of huge crevasses on the Boston Glacier, so they didn't even start across. The Boston glacier was not even close to being problamatic 2 weeks ago. My assessment is I could go the same way again and that was actually a high route just below ripsaw ridge. There weren't even "marginal bridges." Yes the last week has been warm, but this is a north face. On the N.face proper there was a place where the snow hour-glassed down, but it still looked continuous and passable to me. We did the couloir and once on it, i can say emphatically there were no places that would be melted down to impassable rock. Not even close. The snow was hard but easy to one kick and "punch" in the picks of our tools while holding them at the top of the shaft. Much of our foot work was pied troisieme. Only a few short sections had turned to alpine ice that required swinging and front pointing. I wish there had been more. This is why I say it could be better now...to me more ice and less snow is better. I realize for some this may be pushing their skills and I take that into consideration when posting. This is a long route because you have to (should?) go over and down the other side. Personally I can't fathom trying this in a day from Boston Basin. How the hell do you get back? Maybe this is the conclusion (mistake) they realized and so they bailed. It makes them feel better to say it wasn't in shape. I think my partner would confirm all this. Dave

Bring them for sure. If you don't need them, so what if you brought them. Leave something else behind if you can't handle the extra 2 pounds. If you climb before noon, you'll probably want them. Why take the chance? It's an awesome view up there! Dave

Hey summitseeker, just thought you should be aware N. Face of Buckner is VERY IN! I know because I did it only 2 weeks ago and it will only be better now. I'm curious to know what makes you say it isn't. I don't think it is prudent to report things like this because someone reading your post might cancel a trip there and later regret your false beta. Just something for you to consider. Dave

Rodchester, Barrabes has it for $164 incl. shipping. See previous post with link and please verify this is same model you were talking about. Your description was very helpful and now I'm really interested. Sounds like the pack I'm looking for. Thanks

HEy Wopper or Rodchester, Tell me more about NF jetstream. Does it have?...gear loops, extendable top lid, bivy extension, wand pockets, suspension frame or sheet, daiseychain. I want basic pack with essential features only. (some of above I can live without). Also, NOZONE owners, why is this the best pack? It certainly is a lot more $$$$! I'm a serious buyer right now!

I have a book by Norman Croucher..."A man and his mountains." Give it a read, I enjoyed it!

Did it two weeks ago. (see above post). Ditto! To elaborate: We had great weather. We did not try it in a day and would not suggest such! Why kill yourself? (not litterally) Crossing Boston was piece of cake, passing schrund no problem, climb awesome, descent arduous. I would not wait until next year! It's perfect right now!!!

I just blew out my alpine pack and am in the market. It seems the sizes published by various manufacturers is not consistant. The nozone looks about right, but also seems to be a lot more expensive than other similar packs. Mountainsmith makes both the Boundary and Wizard. Both seem really nice. North Face has the Prophet series, but I'm just not able to do powder-puff blue. Sierra trading post has the NF Gompa for $99. Just not sure it's big enough. Also, the NF has the Springbok which is a little beefier and so weighs more, but still reasonable. Some features I'm particular to: Lighter weight, two ice axes, extendable/removable top lid, gear loops, compression straps, larger bivy extension, hydration friendly. Wand/ski pockets would be nice. Any opinion on frame vs. sheets? Also, the BD ice pack looks pretty good too. Wish there were a store where i could see them all at the same time. I'm looking for feedback!!!!!!!!!!

Interesting story here: I see Jason Keith's name as the contact person from the Access Fund and this guy is my long time friend! I didn't know he was working there though. Jason is a native of the PNW and now working for a good cause. So I call him up and tell him my dilemma about the Park land vs. the Forest and BLM and he says this is a very interesting and important matter. If You contact Jason at jason@accessfund.org, he can send you attached word documents with important info. Read it and you will know enough to say no to fee demo. I made the call to Sen. Patty Murray's office and some idiot was on the other end. I asked him what Patty's stand was on this issue and he said "I don't know!" I told him to thank Patty for saving the Hanford Reach and hung up. But he did confirm that they were tallying phone calls so please call!

I'm hoping to make it. If I do I'll bring my bongo drums, enter the diving contest, and climb Givler's because it's there. I would think fires would be allowed by then so can bring wood too. Any thoughts on the fire subject? It would be weird without a campfire at night. But who knows,really?