David_Parker

I have run across gear many times and it has usually been, with little strain on my brain cells, easy to tell if the gear was abandoned (with no expectation of return)such as in a hasty retreat or it is stuck (booty) OR the gear was left to aid in retreat or facilitate a return or ascent and the party that left the gear is most likely somewhere in the vicinity. Also, it's pretty obvious when a rope has become "stuck" during pulling it from a rapell and that is a different story. I found a bunch of pickets and a couple water bottles once at the top of the Sherpa glacier and there were no footprints headed up Stuart but than I heard voices over on Sherpa and it was obvious they didn't need that stuff until on the way down. Needless to say, I didn't take it. At Burgandy Col, a party left a sling with a rap ring to descend the steep snow to get around to Chianti Spire. We used it to rap too, but left it on the way back, knowing we beat the party back and assumed they would retrieve it since it was theirs. It seems pretty obvious to me that this gear in question, whether left for 2 hours or 2 days was going to be retrieved and should have been left, not taken. If I fixed the first 2 pitches on Liberty Crack so I could do the ascent in a day, I would be pissed if someone took my rope. But also, I would not leave it for more than overnight; not a week. So what to do with the stuck rope from a rapell? If you can get it unstuck and down off the mountain, you could be helping someone tremendously......if you can find them. Otherwise, they may be coming back the next weekend to get it. Then what? A note on the stuck rope would give them a good chance of getting it back without having to come back. Either way, to me it is not booty. Leave it, or if you take it, do so with the intention of doing your best to find the owner by posting here, notes at REI, Marmot, and any other logical place locally. I left a full day pack, a pair of sneakers and a trecking pole at the Ross Lake trailhead on HWY 20. I crossed my fingers someone honest found it...which is what happened and I got it all back. The Karma gods are watching! PS: I put my telephone # (when practical) on lots of my gear.

We went across/down through the "tunnel" formed by a huge block. Then upwards and right and around another minor corner to a groove that had some crack and some friction. This came onto another belay ledge and we then traversed more right, ( my beta was if in doubt, go right) and we found a huge flake and attacked from around to the right by going up a 15 ft chimney with a chockstone. You really can't go any further right at this point. There was no pro until we were able to put a double length runner around the top of the flake but there was no way you were going to fall out of the chimney. We then committed to reaching over and making the move onto the summit block (5.8). Easy traverse over to summit.

Andy, you almost got it, but if you quote you might be a little more careful! "There are only three sports: bullfighting, motor racing, and mountaineering; all the rest are merely games." -- Ernest Hemingway Don't know who said this but here it is.... "A ship in the harbor is safe, but that is not what ships were built for." and.... "If you aint the lead dog, the scenery never changes!"

I think I'm MORE confused now that I have been looking into this more. Are they collecting the fee through the parking permits? It's totally weird to me. I go climbing in the N. Cascades National PARK and MUST register. Paperwork, time, etc. There was no Fee!!!!! Here is where I would gladley PAY!!! The trail is maintained, there are designated campsites that can not become overcrowded and I suppose since I registered and did not return when stated, someone might come looking for me eventually. But the real KEY here is that I am going into an area that is preserved (protected) FOREVER...no logging, mining, raping, pilaging, destruction of habitat etc. For that I will gladly pay a user fee and they don't ask for one! But the National Forest and BLM land is WAY DIFFERENT!!! They use it for natural resourses to service the public as a whole. The guy who builds the 4,000 square foot house should pay too. Private enterprise uses the land for profit. The ammount of habitat destroyed by logging and mining and grazing is way more than a trail through the woods! I WILL NOT PAY!!!! I will pay to use a forest service campground if it is maintained and has toilet, running water etc. But if I drive to a trailhead, hike into the forest, carry all my stuff, leave no trash, why do I PAY? Don't we need to distinguish between the different land types (Park, Forest, BLM)????

Lake of the Angels in the Olympics. You can climb Mt. Stone and get a great view. I think you approach up the Hamma Hamma River road.

We're all liars and the Cascades are really in Nevada. As far as Burgandy, I smoke dope so the approach was a piece of cake. The first pitches we simul-climbed so I can argue it was one big long one. After the sandy ledges there are lots of options and route finding becomes more difficult. Due to traversing, it's hard to count what is a pitch and what is a belay move. Shall we tell you the ending of all the movies you want to rent too?

I was just at the Garmont rep's house and saw the full line of shoes/boots. In micro increments, they have everything between running shoes to light hikers to leather ice boots. I got a pair of very sturdy approach shoes and I love 'em. I would definitely check out Garmonts!!!

Don't you know a walking crystal meth lab when you see one!!

N. Face couloir of Mt. Buckner

A reliable source told me Peter Potterfield is going to run it now!

Give the credit to Charlie because I think that was the answer you were looking for. I just knew that Clint actually went up onto the mountain and that is impressive to me. The guys no phony! You could say the only real training you can do for the Eiger Mord-wand is to get on it! Either that or go do a big ice climb with sections of loose rock while someone consantly dumbs buckets of rocks down on your head or squirts you with a fire hose!

Clint actually trained on the Eiger. Also, one of the climbers involved in filming or the training died in the process.

Arizona

Jim, It sounds like you made base camp at Holden Lake vs. Holden Pass. So you did not have to get back to Holden Pass on the way down and therfore probably could stay right. However we were thinking of making base at the pass and roundtripping from there. This requires staying left and pesents different logistics in descending (so we don't have to go down to the lake and then back up to the pass to retrieve gear). So do you see that big crevasse blocking return directly to the pass?

Has anyone been up Bonanza recently. With our low snow year, I'm expecting that the big 'shrud on the Mary Green glacier may be very difficult to cross, especially on the descent. I'd like to hear from someone who has seen it up close and personal! We may go up over on the company glacier and so won't know what we'll be dealing with until we come down on top of it. Thanks

ALERT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! It's an alert from DCH and also an alert I may need a partner! What DCH says doesn't make me not want to go. But I won't go alone! My partner left a message thursday nite that there may be a last minute conflict for this weekend. I'm looking for back ups. Doesn't have to be this route though. I'm easy...but was just looking for an "icier" route. I'm thinking mush may not be an issue this weekend due to recent weather. Should be "alpine" though! I'm packed and ready to go! Anyone?

I'm going anyway it looks like, so I'll wave to you! I heard you really have to be almost under it to really see if it's continuous. Hopefully someone knows, but we'll deal with it one way or another! Thanks

I'm sure it won't be long before these pants show up at sierratradingpost! (hopefully)

Yeah, but Kyle, how many chicks fit back there?

Anyone know for sure if the snow/ice is continuous now? What if it's not? Is it unprotectable wet slab? What about standard N. Face?

Hey Cappy, Try "Shakleton's Boat Journey" by his first mate Worsely. It's much less "dry" and gets to the juicy stuff much faster!

Good one matt! I'll have to remember that one! I just remember when I was in France the Citroen was the classic ski bum car. I liked the guy with the top down, skis sticking out, driving in a snowstorm with his goggles on towards Les Grandes Montets!

Your absolutely right, I do need to get out more! Wish I didn't have a job though. I've owned at one time or another practically all the above options. I sleep outside in all but the nastiest downpour. The megamid goes up and down fast! Also, the tranny fluid thing works as a good water repellant! I'll take the stars (and clouds) any day. You guys remind me of that add for Volkswagon where the guy and chick have a tent set up and they sleep in the car. lol. As far as stealth, I've never run into an authority figure between 9:00pm and 7:00 am. If I'm sleeping at a trailhead between those hours, I don't need to be in the car to avoid harassment. Besides, what's he gonna do, give me a ticket!!!! I'll add it to my others I don't pay. I'll pack my bivy sack while you make the coffee! I'm not leaving without it! Chances are I'll be kicking your ass out of bed. I don't sleep alot. I don't think gearbolt was thinking about living out of his vehicle. That is a different story. I'll go with Will's post. All things considered, I think I'd go back to the VW bus, Eurovan thing. There are definitely times when it would be nice to have one, especially when on a road trip with my wife and kid where you just stop to sleep and get up and leave in the am while trying to get to Utah. I've seen conversion kits from Canada for Dodge Caravan and other similar minivans that were really nice too. Unfortunately (or fortunately!), I'm not just a climber. I need to deal with sea/whitewater kayaks and bikes, sometimes both in one trip. This influences my personal choice.....4 runner! For climbing trips with my buddies and my turn to drive, I can also take my wifes Forester with rocket box. That thing really boogies over the passes! Drive safely and remember, If you're not the lead dog, the scenery never changes! cheers!

Lets get this subject off the Twight thread. It deserves it's own! Shackleton's story is truly one of the best. Go check out the exhibit currently running at the Burke Museum for some of the original photographs AFTER you read it. Has anyone read the story about the guys who were supposed to meet Shackleton with a cache? Apparantly they went through their own hell also. The Long Walk is good too. Here are some more... Boon Island by Kenneth Roberts Heart of the Sea...the true story that gave Melville the basis for Moby Dick Mauson's Will...incredible survival story in Queen Maud Land while Scott and Amundsen were racing to the pole High Mountains, Cold Seas....about HW Tilman and his incredible adventures While I think Touching the Void is also a great story, it certainly isn't the greatest. I find these sea and polar stories fantastic as well. You just have to keep reminding yourself they didn't have goretex, plastic and nylon.....only canvas, wool and fur....bahhhhhh!!! I'm looking forward to hearing about more adventure books out there...

Carolyn, for really beautiful backpacking and nice summits, don't overlook the Olympic Penninsula. Coming up from Portland, cut over at Olympia onto #101 or go across the Tacoma Narrows bridge further north. You can then cut back to the N. Cascades via the Port Townsend Ferry to Whidby Island and drive off the north end over deception pass right onto Hwy 20. The hike into the Brothers above the lake (about 1/2 way)through the valley of silent men is one of the best I've ever seen in this state. Mt. Deception also has beautiful approach. Mt. Anderson has 2 fairly mellow glaciers to cross with a fun little section over flypaper pass. Also, another nice approach. Just a thought! For packing, definitely get a big, STURDY duffle bag. Carry your day pack with personal stuff on the plane. PS: You might not go back to Minnesota after you've been here!