David_Parker

So I have been reduced from Volcanos to bouldering! My wife changed our trip to Mexico from the mainland to Cabo San Lucas (Baja). So does anyone know about climbing in that area? I've never been.

No Joke!!!! I stumbled across this site! http://www.pubclub.com/ They have a motto: "When I read about the evils of drinking, I gave up reading."

Did you have a shovel or just Ice tools?

Hey Dan, if nobody posts here, you will eventually fade away! I often have weekdays available because I'm self-employed. At least I'm able to react instantly to weather and climbing conditions. I can't meet you at Cascade Crags, but I did stay at a Holiday Inn once, so I can climb ice!

Owl and Thistle (serves Guiness on Tap) has been mentioned many times and has yet to recieve our gratuity. Really convenient for me! It's right downtown near the ferry terminal. Also, there's an exit close by off 99 (the viaduct). I'm up for it this week! There's another Irish pub (used to be called Tir-Na-Nog) on the same block, or Kels up in Post Alley. Shit, maybe we should do the first Cascade Climber Pioneer square/ Pike Market/ Bell Town pub crawl! [ 11-26-2001: Message edited by: David Parker ]

I have this rope and bought it for ice climbing. It is slippery but I think it won't get iced up as easily as other not so slippery ropes. It is supple too. Don't have a comment about twisting. Hasn't seemed to be a problem so far. I think Sterling makes a good rope.

XL schoeler pants by cloudveil for only $99.00! http://www.sierratradingpost.com/product.asp?base%5Fno=46272&str%5Fbase%5Fno=42359%2C42368%2C42369%2C42400%2C42464%2C42542%2C42548%2C42553%2C43270%2C43509%2C43620%2C46102%2C46192%2 C46201%2C46205%2C46208%2C46233%2C46250%2C46253%2C46272%2C&header%5Ftitle=&page%5Fname=prod%5Flist%5Fdisplay%2Easp&search%5Ftype=L2%7E328&size1=&size2=&gender=0&ShowImages=yes&sq=20 &cont=1&intPgNo=2&mscssid=LXRQ0FDG9ESR2GGA0G0KN0SFNRNHFCT9

Here's a link to some pretty well priced gloves!!!!! http://www.sierratradingpost.com/prod_list_display.asp?dept%5Fid=L2%7E224&dept%5Fname%5Fp=Men%27s+Clothing&mscssid=LXRQ0FDG9ESR2GGA0G0KN0SFNRNHFCT9

Hey Eric, Is that a picture of your brother you keep posting on the C-note? I think you are presumptious to think that a black man represents all the inmates on Death Row in the US. I mean there are whities on death row, right? Are you a biggot?

Thanks for keeping us up to date Jon!

Hey, those aren't for Calvin are they?

Personally, I can't fathom ice climbing and not being able to move my hand onto the head while still in the leashes. Not to mention sometimes having to hit up on the head to clear the tools (yes I do sometimes bury it too far), I think it is essential to be able to grab the head to pull it out if it is down below your waist or use it as a hold. For example, when surmounting the bulge at the very top, often the ice runs out and turns to unconsolidated snow. In this case, best to get one last stick and use that until the axe is all the way down at your knees or even feet as you climb past. Often, by then, you can stand up and walk.

OK, here's another question directly related to newtons and ice screw belays. Assuming you have a two screw equalized belay and your tool(s) is/are hooked up as a "backup" and you are belaying the second coming up, do you belay directly off the anchors with munter or reverso (less dynamic) or do you belay off your harness with rope running through anchor down to second (more dynamic)? Obviously we know the answer for when the belay is for the leader going up. Does one (single) or two (half) ropes change your opinion?

Hey Cavey, does that mean you get laid tonite?

You're on the right track! Patience will reward you. There are lots of climbers here to give you beta. Prepare yourself for wise-ass remarks but don't take them personally! The West Coast Ice by Don Serl (Merlin Productions publisher) should be readily available. If you can't find it in Seattle at a climbing store like Feathered Friends, Pro Mountain Sports or REI than you should have no problem finding one in Canada at MEC or like. Pray for a cold front!

Often the glue is stronger than the material(s) you are bonding....wood, concrete, plastic, fiberglass, marriage......

To anyone who wants to try the gym in Bremerton: I have only been to a gym once in my life but was thinking of trying it for a while. If you want to try the gym in Bremerton, you can park downtown, ride the ferry to Bainbridge and I'll pick you up. It takes about 35-45 minutes to drive to Bremerton from here. We climb then I bring you back. We could even do a Tuesday night pub-club on this side for a change!

"I would never use a technical ice tool as part of a belay,"....Dan E I think everyone is in agreement that an ice tool should not be relied on for an anchor. However if climbing a hard, narrow ice route and your belay has minimum ice, certainly it could be a case where it is better than nothing. Lets say you are out of rope, have a narrow runnel of ice that won't take a screw and some rock all around but it's say Canadian rocky rock. You pound in a pin, place a marginal stopper or cam and you pound your tool in as far as it will go in the thin runnell. Now you equalize it all with a cordelette. Now the tool is part of the belay. Personally I'd clip the head over the spike if possible, but I'd go with the spike if that was the better choice to keep things in balance. The spike sounds like it is strong enough in this case. Either way, I think there are instances when using the tool as part of the belay makes sense!! Just try not to place the pick so it is under serious torque if pulled on in a fall. If you carry spectres, I'd use that over the tool. Bottom line, you have to be creative when it comes to pro ice climbing. I've used an abalakov as pro before. Basically that is why I climb ice with the attitude "the leader must not fall"!! I don't like testing this shit!!!! PS: Can someone tell me how to put a photo in a post. Not a link to a photo, but so it appears here automatically.

Kill 2 birds with one stone....buy a couple of the Grivel ultra light ice axes. Your kid can use them for ice climbing and you'll have a second tool for alpine climbing! I'm not so sure if I will "push" my kid to ice climb. He certainly knows I do it, but I think I'll wait until he expresses interest. Steep snow on mountains will be just fine for awhile!

I just spoke to my friend in Canmore and he said he's already climbed hydrophobia and the sorcerer this year! Fuckin' Canadians have it made! Even a 2nd class drive into the Ghost! Anyway, other than that he said he's been getting in shape by dry tooling at the rock gym. They use wood blocks and the ones on the overhanging section have holes drilled in them. So the question is, do any of the gyms around allow or have drytooling sections for ice climbers. By the way, they don't use their crampons! They use rock shoes. But I guess it's a great work out!

Went to Mt. Rainier on Sunday and hiked up to Muir with my gay skis. Needed crampons for sure to get up last 1500' of the Muir "icefield". Smoked a bowl which didn't seem to bother the 2 other guys in the hut (I asked if they minded and if they wanted some). Not exactly sure if you could call it skiing, but actually made it all the way to the parking lot. They need snow baaaaaad! Still it was a beautiful day and it felt good to hike up to 10,000'. I think the mountain was very climbable this weekend although it was hard to tell how windy it was up higher. Hey Lambone, be more specific about climbing conditions on the Coleman Icefall. Were you on seracs or water ice. Was it worth the trip or did you just HAVE to swing your new tools because you were finding they didn't satisfy you in bed!?

Cold hands are just something your going to have to deal with. What do you expect when you raise them above your head for extended periods of time. It's not necesarily the gloves fault you have cold hands. One thing I've noticed is that thicker gloves tend to make you grip tighter because you loose "connection" with your tool due to the thickness and grip tight = colder hands. The lighter you can grip and hang by your leashes the better. I usually carry a spare pair of warmer gloves or even mittens for belaying and try to get away with as light as glove as possible for climbing. I tuck them inside my jacket so they are real handy. This keeps them warm and easily available in case I drop one. Obviously you'll use different gloves according to temps and how wet the waterfall you'll be climbing is. This is why you need a quiver of gloves to choose from. I thought I had found the ultimate glove with the Marmot glove with all leather palm, but it proved to be too thick and thus above mentioned problem. That was a lot of money to spend to find that out. At least they are great for skiing. I think if you have a serious problem with bashed knuckles, you need to revise your technique, not add pads. One reason for bashed knuckles is your leashes are too short. I like mine at the very extreme end of the shaft so there is room for a little bit of flick at the last moment. This will keep your knuckles off the ice. The only time I bash knuckles, (and I climbed with straight shafts for 15 years!) was when they hit a bulge. You may be swinging too hard and trying to bury your pick too much. Snowboarding gloves are built very similar to ice climbing gloves but seem to be cheaper because for some reason "ice climbing" gloves just HAVE to cost more! Look for gloves where the tough stuff on the palm and fingers actually wraps around the end of the fingers. If there is a stitched seam right at the end of the fingers, it will blow out sooner. Check em out. You should be able to find some for $35-$50. Then don't be afraid to try the other stuff like atlas, wool, leather etc. Good luck!

quote: Originally posted by BigWallBigBallsRocky: i will take my snowboard out and swat you two-plank losers with it. All we have to do is start walking up hill and you're dust!

Can I or Would I? That is the real question. I probably could, but wouldn't. I couldn't guarantee I wouldn't fall and I don't think I would want to fall there, so I wouldn't. I like steep stuff, but I'm a little more sane than I used to be. One of the reasons I gave up alpine skiing and turned gay was because I was going to end up dead if I kept doing the stuff I was doing in my 20's on alpine skis. I'm just an old fart now. SO WHO'S SKIING THIS WEEKEND!!!!

I use two magnets to part the wire hair!