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David_Parker

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Everything posted by David_Parker

  1. I always grab a few extra veggie bags at the grocery store when I go on a trip. My feet sweat a lot and no non-plastic boot is waterproof in wet glacier snow or walking in streams. I always bring 2 pair of socks (and two thin liner socks with some boots)and rotate them, drying them by putting them in my sleeping bag with me (not wearing them). But after 2-3 days the insides of my boots are usually wet so as soon as you put them on dry socks get wet! This is when I'll put the plastic bags over my socks so the socks (thus feet) don't get wet. I have noticed the tiniest hole allows water penetration but it sloows it way down. I also concur that in sub-zero, multi day trips you need to do the vb between the liner and insulating sock to keep your liners dry. They are the hardest to dry out once wet. It definitely helps to pull the footbeds out to accelerate drying of liners. You definitely have to figure out the system that works for you by trial and error.
  2. Yeah cool, since I just climbed it! (N. Butt)I'd love to have the most recent photo that shows it in the conditions it was. Mine is from the year before. Call me if you still have my phone #.
  3. I remember reading the story in AMC Magazine about the guy on Mt. Washington. LEARN FROM OTHERS MISTAKES... The doctors said if he had pulled it out himself he would have died, probably by bleeding to death, before reaching Pinkham notch!!! Good thing he left it in!!!
  4. arrrrrrrg! I can't make it and I want to go out in the boat! So no boat rides this week! And not next week either cause I'll be climbing! So keep downtown open for two weeks from now OK!
  5. cirpich, check your PM. I'm interested in more beta on the lightweight sleeping bag
  6. see post currently running for "stupidest things you heard in climbing!" The snow all melted....bring your waterski!
  7. quote: Originally posted by Alpine Tom: If it was on the upper slopes of Everest or someplace dire like that, I’d have a hard time arguing with them, but this is Mt. Hood, in summer. Wind is wind anywhere in the world, so even if you were on Everest or Mt. Washington in N.H., it's a 4 season tent. Get Ugly with them.... or consult the lovely Jules and ask for her assistance. I'll bet she can help set things right!
  8. quote: Originally posted by Alpine Tom: If it was on the upper slopes of Everest or someplace dire like that, I’d have a hard time arguing with them, but this is Mt. Hood, in summer.
  9. A sad story and my sympathies to friends and family. One thing I noticed was the knowledge the writer of the story seemed to have about the sport. Wouldn't it be great if our local climbing rescue stories were writen with such insight! Doesn't seem to make Nic look like an idiot or anything.
  10. Parapenting is great if approached as a sport in itself. But to think of it as an easier way to descend after a climb is contrived. It works well in Chamonix because conditions support it, but don't assume it works everywhere. The Cascades are a whole lot different than the valley in Cham. You have a big learning curve and beware if you lug that thing to the top of some mountain, you may feel added pressure to use it when you really shouldn't. My brother was quite expeienced before his wing collapsed after dropping below a ridge flying off La Sal in S. Utah. He cratered on a lake and was lucky he didn't bust through. I saw the video and it was disturbing. He was evacuated by snowmobile driven by Captain Morgan. He's ok, but has since toned way back. Eventually your going to have an accident...are you prepared?
  11. I heard nail polish remover will disolve the ink, so you should all go out and remove your rope markings with it immediately! I'm shaking in my rock shoes!
  12. quote: Originally posted by ehmmic: In Yosemite Valley asked, "Are you climbers?" while walking to the base of a climb with harnesses on and rack and rope. Answered, "nope. we just like this look." Tourons... And when returning from an ice climb in Provo Canyon, we were asked: "have you guys been ice hiking?" Tourons!!!
  13. quote: Originally posted by Keith: The Gore-Tex minimizes the break-in period as compared to leather. Traditional leather boots are stiff and can take many miles of blisters before they really fit your feet and get soft. Not so with Gore-Tex. Here's a tip (from real cowboys) to minimize the break in period for leather boots. Get the boots soaking wet and wear them until they dry out on your feet!
  14. quote: Originally posted by todd: 1 pair grivel light machines w/picks adze/hammer $250 o.b.o. 1 pair black diamond cobras w/picks 2 hammers $350 o.b.o. im in bellingham till 9/17. email at toddmiller75@hotmail.com You mean no body has jumped on this!!! That's a great price for the Cobra's! I should buy them and resell them for more!
  15. I bought a pair of Cobra's from a guy in Wenatchee (pls indentify yourself, I lost your contact info) and we exchanged cashiers check for tools in person. I actually drove to 11worth to do the deal. That was a big $$ amount and neither of us was willing to risk it any other way. Business is business. I also bought crampons from Will S. and we trusted each other to send check by mail and send crampons. No worries there. Mostly though, the buyer should send the money and when the seller gets it, send the merchandise. Person to person obviously is best. You could also involve a third person to act as an escrow officer. [ 08-06-2002, 02:09 PM: Message edited by: David Parker ]
  16. Why not leave a little bit of coffee or gatorade or tea in it and tell them it's NOT a fuel bottle, but a beverage container. The euros use metal containers for such all the time!
  17. I like the morraine better than lower saddle. Much less windy and only about 800 feet lower. Don't know conditions this year, but you might/should find alpine ice on the middle Tit and always ice on the Black Ice. Beware of tourons on the OS knocking down rocks though. Check out the less popular mountains. The Grand is good, but so are others.
  18. I would think with this years snow pack you will have no problems! Did it last year in late July with no problems with much less snow. Beware of anyone giving beta from just "looking at it" from Forbidden or sharkfin. The angle of that point of view can be deceptive and misleading. Go for N. Face couloir. You'll get past the schrund even if it looks "gaping" from afar. PM me if you want more beta. All you need is a permit, no charge. We approached via Sahale Arm first day and base camped at Sahale glacier base. Climbed over Sahale, across face of Boston Peak, across Boston Glacier, up N face couloir, down other side, across base of Davenport, back up to Sahale camp packed up and out on 2nd day.
  19. I now own Garmont Tower's and did my first climb in New Hampshire on Mt. Chocorua. New, out of the box: 9 miles total and no blisters! I'm stoked to have 'em and will put them to the extreme test this month on my next super alpine mixed climb. If anyone is SERIOUS about getting them, I can help. PM or email me.
  20. I like the HARD salami with the white condom
  21. Just bringing this to the top for Billy!
  22. For an awesome alpine experience, go climb the Beckey route in Lone Peak Cirque (up Little cotton wood.) NW ridge of Pfeiferhorn is fun too. Little Cotton wood has great granite. Try Dorsal Fin for a longer route. American Fork is fairly close for hard sport climbing in the shade. Trade shows next weekend so beware of mass crowds!!
  23. quote: Originally posted by Rodchester: [QB]Rescue under way on Glacier Peak 07/30/2002 The group consists of one man and two women, all of them in their 20's and experienced climbers. None of them were injured. QB] WTF??? Did they get hungry or something? They don't sound "experienced" to me. This kind of shit only fuels the fire for climbers needing to pay for rescues. If they aren't injured, maybe they should pay!
  24. Because I liked frosted flakes as a kid and I embrace all the qualities of a large, wild cat!
  25. My version is 4.0 so maybe some improvements have been made. The map I got of Luna Cirque seemed to show cliffs from the stand point the topo lines were one on top of another in 50' gradients. Also showed forest and open ground. They tout not just scanning USGS maps but actually updating data. I'd love to see TOPO! version of Luna Cirque to compare. Can you paste in an email to me or here on CC?
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