David_Parker

I'd recommend staying off the glaciers if he is inexperienced. I support the suggestion af a climb in the Olympics. Beautiful approaches and moderate snow slopes generally. The Brothers is a great 2 day climb and the approach through Valley of the Silent Men is one of the prettiest I've seen. On the other hand Sahale has a pretty benign glacier and puts you in a spectacular position! [ 06-10-2002, 09:11 AM: Message edited by: David Parker ]

Yeah, I caught the third overtime period of game three. Glad the winning goal was a great play and not something controversial or a dribble past the goaley. 3rd longest game in Stanley cup playoffs!

Yeah, but I wouldn't want to look at the SAME bitch's ass; I like variety!

quote: Originally posted by Dru: they got practice with heli evacs from pulling 100 gapers out of Muir Huit after they got chronic smoke inhalation.... Dru, are all Cunnucks as funny as you? That's hilarious!!!

Somebody PLEASE accurately show the number of dollars spent looking for lost hikers vs. climbing rescues. The key word in the article is in the first line...."dramatic." Yeah, climbing rescues are dramatic and the press is always all over it like a cheap suit. Maybe a percentage of the revenue they generate from their high drama stories (including all sorts of bad information) should help pay. Also, maybe they could fire all the Larry the Tools, eliminate enforcement of bullshit fees and put their salary towards the costs. Aren't most rescues involving helicopters military based operations. I don't have much sympathy for them paying, given their HUGE budget that we pay for! Man, those guys are eager to go out on something like this. It's all training for them. Realistically, high profile mountains like Rainier and Hood are umpteen times more likely to have an accident/rescue and so part of the permit fee could include insurance! I'd pay a higher fee as long as all the gapers did too. Eliminate the fee based on going above a certain altitude and make it inclusive of leaving the parking lot. Not that I'm for any fees like that, but it's the singling out of climbers I don't particularly care for.

On this date, 58 years ago, the "greatest" battle ever fought for freedom took place on the beaches of Normandy. I have been reding quite a bit about war recently and specifically WWII. To me these soldiers exemplified the true meaning of heros. While todays war is more like a video game and we are almost shocked if someone on our side actually dies, I wonder if, as time passes and especially the veterans of D-Day pass away, we will ever have real heros any more. (I grant the firefighters similar status, but they don't really "expect" to die). Also, while "D-Day" has been specifically asigned to June 6, 1944, the actuall term was assigned to any similar type attack and that the battle for Iwo Jima should not be overlooked. It took less than 24 hours to secure the beaches in France. It took 36 days to take over that small Island in the South Pacific with far more casulties. I bring this up because of recent deaths in the mountains and the fact we all know as climbers we may be actually closer to death at times than we think. But how would you feel if you were one of these guys and your chances were far greater? For me, when the shit hits the fan and I think things can't get much worse, it helps to think of these guys. I thank my lucky stars I was never forced into battle. I often wonder what I would have done if I had. It makes me feel wimpy sometimes. No real "question" here, just interested in your thoughts... and asking you to take a few moments to remember our real heros, the ones that died "today" so that we may live "tomorrow."

Really, I don't play the #%&$(& sport, but I did a long time ago. But in GOLF, you don't remember every shot (especially when you suck and most are bad). But it's that sweet 7 iron on the 16th that landed 4 feet from the cup that makes you think it was a great round even though you shot 109! The comparison is, we are PASSIONATE about climbing and that's all that matters and we DO think about our next climb because it is mysterious until it's over. Life is about persuit of your passions and the MYSTERY makes it attractive....so we continue to climb, have sex, drive fast, party down and feel ALIVE! It's not that complicated really.

I suppose one way to figure out what you get out of climbing is to think about how you feel about a climb you did last year. It's been long enuff now to have it reduced to the simple things while the details may now be more obscure. So what is the OVERALL feeling you have now? What details come to mind first? For example, I did N. Face of Buckner last year which I remember as an awesome 2 days. I remember how tired I was climbing the last 1500 feet out of Horseshoe basin to get onto the Sahale glacier again. I remember the cool move to downclimb around a serac. I remember negotiating the schrund to gain the upper slopes. I remember the place where the couloir petered out to rock and the climbing turned mixed. I remember just how awesome the whole view from Johanesburg to Spider was. I remember digging around in the old mine we came across. I remember hanging my head upside down in a pocket hole in the meadow on Sahale arm with a stream running thru it to cool off. To me, these images are much more lasting than even the step across move on Canary I did only last week. So I guess for me the longer the trip and the longer the time spent in the climbing environment in a more remote place, the more "feeling" I get out of the deal. That's why I prefer an alpine climb to a crag climb (ice or rock) any day. Yeah, for me the journey is the deal. But I fully admit the summit IS important and I feel LESS if it isn't part of the climb. Maybe the summit is the measuring cup, but it isn't worth shit if there's nothing in it! [ 06-05-2002, 02:16 PM: Message edited by: David Parker ]

I have Merrill super comps (leather) and use my old smc strap ons. The 75 mm toe fits between the two forward posts (metal thingies) perfectly. Probably not much good for extended front pointing, but just fine for frenchie stuff. Some older crampons have adjustable width bars between the 2 front posts. Search second hand stores like the one in Ballard. The key to combining steep icy slopes with tele skiing is tricky. It helps to have good french technique down. Too many climbers start front pointing way before they need too!

erik, i believe your mom probably taught you how to tie yer shoes. I don't know what you're talking about. Dr. Scholl blister pads come in flat blue box and they are oval, very sticky, second skin substance. These can be used as preventative or even after blister has formed. They have stayed on my feet for up to 3 days. If they're still on, keep it on. Healing takes place underneath. Follow directions for best results. The empty blue box makes a great joint case!

Nature is truly amazing sometimes. Very often the remedy grows right near by the poison. If you encounter stinging nettles, search for sword ferns always nearby. Rubbing the sword fern leaves where you have been stung seems to help subside the stinging. BTW, nettle tea is also good for flu symptoms.

Do you think if the Ranger hadn't put you and the car together, he would have issued the ticket? From what I understand, they have to have you admit the car is yours or see you get in it. The ticket goes to the person, not the car. At least that is precedent in Arizona.

That couloir is a great ski. I did two laps in it many years ago!

[/QB] I hate to admit it, but I'm not sure I'd know what to do with those!!! Where do you begin??? What happens when she stands up?? [ 05-17-2002, 09:32 AM: Message edited by: David Parker ]

UPDATE: 5/16/02 Part 1 Part 2 Part 1: JC and Alberto Both Reach the Summit Hi, it’s Ed Viesturs calling from Annapurna Base Camp, Thursday, May 16th at about 1 pm in the afternoon. We have some very exciting news, as of 9:45 am today Jean Christophe Lafaille and Alberto both reached the summit of Annapurna. They had a difficult time climbing for about five hours from their high camp between the East and Central Summit, but they climbed this morning on difficult, rocky, steep terrain. But they did safely and successfully then reach the summit of Annapurna. They radioed down, very excited, from the top. It was a beautiful day, some clouds and a little bit of wind. But Jean Christophe said it was one of the most beautiful summits he had ever stood on, but it was also very difficult and arduous terrain today. It was very dry, not a lot of snow cover, so they had some steep and somewhat dangerous rocky traverses to do to reach the summit of Annapurna. We are waiting for their call again. We will have our radios open until they safely return back to their high camp between the East and Central Summit. So we are waiting for them to check in again. … (sat phone signal fades) … and they know that as well. They said they were going to be very safe and very cautious and retrace their steps maintaining their focus knowing that they have to be very safe and slowly retreat back to high camp. So, very exciting news here. All of us here are very happy for them. Now we are just going to be highly concerned that they can safely come all the way back down. We hope that they will be back here at Base Camp on Saturday. I’ll call once again once they return to high camp and let us know that everything is fine. We’re all very happy, we all worked hard together on this and we’re so excited that at least two of our climbers reached the summit. For Jean Christophe this is his eighth 8000 meter peak and for Alberto his final and fourteenth 8000 meter peak. So for him a great day for him to stand on the summit of Annapurna and complete the fourteen peaks. Everything is fine here at Base Camp. Part 2: JC and Alberto Safely Camped Further Down the Ridge Hi, Ed Viesturs calling from Annapurna Base Camp. As of 5 pm today we have word that Jean Christophe and Alberto are further down along the ridge. They are now camped for the night and they’re very, very tired but happy. And we’ve been talking to them on the radio for the last hour, they are very alert and coherent, very happy but very, very tired. They are going to spend the night. And in the morning as soon as they can, start descending further along the ridge … (sat phone signal fades) … Hi, Ed Viesturs, I think I got cut off. I was just repeating that Jean Christophe and Alberto are doing well. They are halfway – or least along the ridge – and camped for the night, very tired but very happy. And tomorrow after about six hours of climbing, they hope to be at Camp Three. And the following day on Saturday, they should be here at Base Camp. So we’re very excited and we’re very happy. We were on pins and needles all day waiting to hear from them as far as their descent was concerned. But we’re happy to report that they’re camped safely now for the night and all is well. It’s been a great, interesting day waiting for them, listening, hoping that they were coming back down safely. And they are now safe at camp and we’ll let you know more tomorrow as they make their way down to Camp Three. So an exciting day for us, we’re all very happy that two of our team members reached the summit of Annapurna. And for Alberto Inurrategi - his fourteenth 8000 meter peak, and for Jean Christophe Lafaille - his eighth 8000 meter peak. So that’s it here from Annapurna Base Camp. I’ll be calling in again tomorrow.

I'm sorry to hear of this sad news, but Ed is going to make his 14 summits eventually. I was with Ed in his garage with all his gear just before he left and he truly has an exemplary attitude towards this high altitude climbing. He has a wonderful wife and two beautiful children and I'm sure his thoughts were mostly about them when he made the decision to turn around. If you want more information about his climb on Annapurna, go to: http://www.annapurna2002.com/dispatch/dispatch5_14.html I believe Ed returns later this year to Nanga Parbat for another try. #13 is proving to be difficult and elusive and we should all wish him luck!!! Here's the most recent post from that website: Hi, its Ed Viesturs calling, it’s May 15th. And Veikka and myself, we are now at Base Camp. After spending the day yesterday camped below the steep face of Roc Noir and observing and discussing and deliberating and evaluating the risks involved, both Veikka and I decided not to continue further - either to climb the face of Roc Noir, which is an 800 foot snow face of about 45 degrees with very avalanche prone snow and then to continue on the ridge beyond we felt, in our own evaluation, that the level of risk was increasing and the margin of safety was decreasing. It’s a tough call to make when you spend four or five weeks on an expedition like this to get so close and then are faced with an assessment like that. I’ve done it before, when it feels bad and my gut instinct is telling me it is bad, then I know it’s bad. Not to say that what Jean Christophe and Alberto are doing is wrong, their level of risk may be greater. They did continue on the ridge, they are now camped between the East and the Middle Summit of Annapurna. And hopefully tomorrow, weather and conditions permitting, they will reach the summit of Annapurna tomorrow. And I will let you know as soon as possible. We are hoping for the best, we hope they do reach the summit, they deserve it, they worked very hard, and we’re very excited if they do make it to the summit. But again, Veikka and I spent all day yesterday watching the snow face. We had more snow while we were observing the face. It was avalanching during the day. And we then decided that it wasn’t worth the risk for us to climb the face. JC and Alberto also told us that above the face on the ridge itself was a very steep and dangerous ice traverse which they managed to accomplish. Once we heard of that, that added on to the fact that the dangers above on the ridge were compounding, not only would you have to climb that on the way to the summit, but then also retreat and climb back down on the way back. So Veikka and I thought long and hard, we discussed hour after hour and it was a tough call but we both felt good once we made the decision to return and that’s what we did. So this morning we got up at five o’clock. We were camped just below the East Ridge, we packed up all of our gear and we started descending at around six am. And it took us about ten hours to descend through all the camps, picking up all of our gear and equipment as we came down. And the difficult part was between Camp Two and Camp One where we had three thousand feet of rope to repel with eighty-five pound packs. It was very difficult, very physically tiring and after about ten hours we finally managed to get back here to Base Camp. I think I’m about two inches shorter simply because of the loads we had today. But we cleared all of our camps. We removed everything that we took up, we brought it all back down. And here we are safe and sound at Base Camp, obviously slightly disappointed that we didn’t climb Annapurna. But it’s one of these things where there are some risks involved when you climb these mountains, but at the same time its ultra important that you have a very conservative attitude. So in closing I just wanted to say that Veikka and I are very tired, it was a long day. In many of the places that we descended where originally was snow, especially on the buttress climbing the West Face of Singu Chuli, now there is rock - very loose, egg shell type rock. And with large packs, coming down the fixed rope was very tedious and very demanding. So we’re very, very relieved to be here at Base Camp where it’s flat, there’s grass, it’s warm and it’s extremely safe. But please stayed tuned, tomorrow should be an exciting day if we hear news about Jean Christophe and Alberto reaching the summit, I will let you know as soon as possible. They’re going to start their final ascent at about five o’clock in the morning and it’s hard to guess how long it will take them to reach the summit if the weather holds. So I will let you know as soon as possible. So thanks for following us on this expedition. It was long; it was physically very demanding for us, exciting climbing and all I can say is it’s good to be here safe and sound back at Base Camp. Ed Viesturs signing out from Annapurna Base Camp. [ 05-16-2002, 10:32 AM: Message edited by: David Parker ]

quote: Originally posted by Charlie: So, no topo??? Topo's are for sport climbs. Don't you want ANY sort of adventure? Find the tree and figure it out yourself. The rest of us did!!

Had to work, but around 4:30 Sat.climbed in my friends speed boat and cruised over to Blake Island (great view of Rainier)for some beer swillin' and watched the sun go down over the Olympics.

Actually, various teams have various sized rinks in the NHL. Edmonton has the biggest, Boston used to (Boston Garden) have the smallest. Smaller rinks promote more hitting and thus fighting. I like the bigger rinks and the style of play that results. Also, in the Olympics, generally there is no "bad Blood" history between players, so they dont fight.

quote: Originally posted by Stefan: People pay for fishing licenses. This is recreation. (You still pay state taxes.) I bet you all would pay if the Forest Service was held more accountable for the money for trail fees. I agree the $400K toilet at Washington Pass was a waste of money. The vast majority of people who use that facility do not or will not ever buy a trail park pass. Maybe they should make the public pay to use the damn toilet! Not really that outrageous if you think about it. I've seen pay toilets before!!

quote: Originally posted by glen: In the last couple of years I have developed a liking for long, fast day hikes. Preferably involving a little bit of class 3. I've heard a day hike through the Enchantments is a good one. Any others out there in the Cascades I should put on my summer to-do list? Greywolf area of the Olympics

quote: Originally posted by Mike: I was on the trip with Heinie and we wished we had brought bikes for the trip out. Two ways around the washout: (1) trail cut into the slope above washout marked with flagging (2) Descend to river bank and scramble along river - also marked with flagging Option 2 is probably the better bet for lugging a bike. The washout is pretty impressive. About 100+ feet of road has been replaced by a gaping pit about 20' deep with a high bank forcing you down to the rivers edge or 100' above the washed out road. That'll keep the riff-raff out!

Work brings me to the eastside (Bellvue) today until about 12:30. Since I've never been to exit 38, I was wondering if anyone wants to meet me for some climbing this afternoon. Call my cell at 206-714-4300 and leave a message. I could go to index too. [ 04-30-2002, 06:30 AM: Message edited by: David Parker ]

quote: Originally posted by dr. jay: its a good thing for officer tool that nick space wasn't around this weekend, otherwise there really would have been trouble. i don't think its over yet for our hero... So Dr. Jay, what is the prognosis of your ticket from last fall? Same dude...what a complete prick. I couldn't believe he gave those guys a ticket when they were still in their van!

SO, is it open yet???