David_Parker

If I were to combine summer climbing with winter back country skiing, I'd go with the Dolomites.

Looks like I can make it tonight! Just back from Banff, but unfortunately no photos. I do have a great train story (from my climb in Field) which I'll save until I'm sufficiently buzzed! Hope to see some of you guys from Tacoma and other remote locations.

quote: Originally posted by JERRY SANCHEZ: BUT CAN'T FIGURE OUT HOW TO PUT IT BACK ON. aNY SUGGESTIONS? tRY yOGA!

quote: Originally posted by Dru: I tried it myself. Apparently you are supposed to meditate, go into a trance, and visualize a flame spreading from the center of your body out to your extremities and heating you up. I got as far as the trance part Im gonna keep trying though, so I can ditch the fleece and down and climb everything wrapped in a wet cotton sheet. I had heard about this and had my own personal attempt in an unexpected bivy on the grand tit in winter with no sleeping bag. It kinda worked. I'm sure practice makes perfect eventually.

NOOOOOOOOOOOOO, not Seattle! East side, Tacoma, Mattp's house, anywhere else. I can only make it to the Seattle pub clubs (and I'm due)and I'll be in Banff by tomorrow night. Wait for next week for Seattle!

I would like to hear how you guys "bundle" up this mass of cord/webbing in a convenient, easy to get out again manner. Also, in a 2 point anchor (2 ice screws) does anyone see a problem in clipping both loops of the webolette into one piece, the other loop into the other, then tie the master knot and clip that? For those who are wondering how a webolette works,I found this including a diagram at: http://www.geocities.com/pipeline/rapids/2748/gearreviews.htm Webolettes - Everyone knows that a cordolette is the best way to equalize 3 pieces of gear for a belay anchor (as long as the direction of load is constant.) So why don't you see climbers carrying them on a regular basis? I think it's because of the fact that a cordolette is 18-20' of gangly cord and is not particularly handy to rack, at least for everyday use. Behold the webolette. This is not just a cordolette tied from webbing instead of cord. It is 10' of spectra with a runner strength sewn loop on each end. Here's how it works… Clip each end loop to separate pieces of gear. Then take a bite of the remaining webbing near the center of the webolotte and clip it to the third piece of gear like you would with a bite of cordolette. Clip a biner into the 2 loops hanging down as you would the 3 loops of a cordolette, pull in the direction of the anticipated load, and tie a figure eight master knot. Notice that because of the 2 sewn loops in the webolette, there are 4 strands coming down from the 3 pieces of gear as opposed to 6 with a cordolette. This makes the system simpler and results in less clutter at the belay but achieves the same equalization as a cordolette. After being loaded, the master knot unties easily because spectra is naturally more slippery. Important: It is absolutely imperative that you tie a proper master knot! If you don't, 1 of the 3 pieces could fail and cause the whole system to fail! Finally, the webolette is easy to rack because there is half as much material and the spectra is incredibly light. If you're a fan of spectra slings, you'll love the webolette. Be sure to know how to use it before trying it. Some climbers like carrying a cordolette because it is good prusik material for rescue situations. A webolette works well here too, just use a klemheist knot with one of the sewn loops instead of a prusik. The only drawback to the webolette is that it does not function as a giant sling for slinging big boulders or horns like a cordolette will. It does function however as a huge 10' runner.

I'm leaving tonite. (Monday) Call me at 206- 842-5626. Might be able to help you out.

Peter, I notice you live in England. I don't know if you are from the UK, but I find we Americans could learn a few things about "access" from our former brethren. We in america are much to litigeous and this seems to underly all our really stupid decisions when it come to access. I live in an area where the houses are fairly spread out, but it seems impossible to make a decent trail network because of "private" property issues. I found it refreshing that in England I could go for a long walk and cross numerous private parcels of land without being chastised. There were gates and stiles and as long as you respected the system, there were no problems. I'm sure you have "bad apples" too, but it seems this system works and has been for hundreds of years. For some reason we feel our access laws need to be revolutionary instead of evolutionary. Too bad! You used to be able to drive all the way up to the Olympic hotsprings in the Olympic Forest. Then the road washed out and they decided not to fix it. The walk in became a few miles longer. But to me, the effect was hugely positive. No more keg parties, broken glass, fat rednecks who got out of breath in 50 yards. The olympic hotsprings are still fairly crowded, but the area is not destroyed and actually improving. This is one case where what Retro refers to is quite valid IMO. It's amazing what a few miles will do to keep the riff-raff out! [ 03-08-2002: Message edited by: David Parker ]

Classic! To you young'ins out there. Leave the sport climbing mentality in the gym! This is why the attitude "the leader must not fall" is paramount in ice climbing (and alpine).

And you can climb Drury falls in 2 pitches (with a little rope stretch)! [ 03-08-2002: Message edited by: David Parker ]

Why can I lead WI5 with relatively no fear, but am so afraid of the surgery? I haven't been able to make the move. I just figure if I wait a few years, the procedures will be more reliable at a higher percentage. I'd hate to be the one in a hundred botched case! Does anyone know the percentage really of success to botched? I suppose it's no worse than flying in an airplane!

quote: Originally posted by ScottP: There is a correlation between proper spelling/grammar and credibility in written communication. If credibility is a concern (as I am sure it is for some), such things should be considered. Yes and no. When I went to college, I had no computer. Always the difference between A's and B's were the spelling mistakes in my papers. The profs liked my content, but discounted for mis-spelling. I always thought that was bullshit. I liked my physics teacher because he didn't care if we didn't get all the math right as long as we showed we understood the concept by coming up with the right formula or equation. It wasn't a fucking math class. Thank god for spell check. If they add that button here, then there will be no excuses....but until then, I'm with erik! Oh, and don't spell erik "eric"! He doesn't like it!

I'm pretty much with you Retro. But to not allow foot traffic up that dirt road is #$@$$@% ludicrous!!!! Hell, we should be able to ford the stream if the bridge was gone. This is one stinky RAT with a hidden agenda. And to think they can (try to) charge us for NON-ACCESS!!!! Not for a mili-second would I let this stop me from walking up that road if I really wanted. Fortunately, I've had my days in the enchantments and there's plenty of other cool stuff. But Tripple Couloirs and finishing Ice Cliff Glacier are on my list and if conditions are right, up that road I will go. FUCK 'EM!!!!

quote: Originally posted by Dru: think global, buy local. support your local growers... We already do. We're just bringing it back to consume it where it came from!

It seems everytime I go to Canada or Mexico, I am faced with the dilemma about whether to leave the "green" at home or risk the border crossing. Usually my concern is "higher" going to Mexico or when I re-enter the US. What really are the ramifications of getting caught? Can they take your car or your possessions? Anyone out ther been caught? What do you do to hide your stash?

Introducing pot smoking into this thread could threaten the "Saturday at Camp Muir" to become the longest! I'm starting a new thread to occupy you boys!

quote: Originally posted by trask: I have an idea. Why not just lay off the shit while visiting a foreign country. Or would that put some of you into withdrawls? If so, I wouldn't want you holdin' my rope. Hey Trash, I think you jump to conclusions a little too quickly. Personally, I don't even smoke unless I am on vaction. Withdrawls aren't a factor. For some of us, it makes long car rides and approaches a little more tolerable, even enjoyable. Get off your "high" horse. You better stay away from camp Muir on Saturdays too, or someone might offend you. PS: check out Trash's photo on his profile. He obviously has his head up his ass!

Awh, geez! I thought hiding da stash in my gun barrel was a good place! Maybe not?

Veggie, one of the best posts I've seen...thanks. As a side note I know a couple guys who have done all the peaks in the Olympics. Though Mt. Olympus (7965') doesn't even make the top 100, these mountains have long approaches, involve serious bushwacking and have more vertical than many of the Cascades and also feel very remote. A notewothy accomplishment.

I learned to rock climb at index and in 11worth. When I went to Yosemite, I thought the grades were easier. I'm not qualified to rate climbs because I'm always confused. My $.02.

quote: Originally posted by Dwayner: Some of you guys act like the Mountaineers have some sort of priority over climbing areas. Baloney! If you add up all of the weekends the various Mountaineers groups are in some of the prime areas for taking beginners, it's a whole lot of days. I teach small classes a few times a year and these guys are almost always there. Go climb somewhere else, you say? Why should I? As I said, they go to some of areas that are perfect for beginners in any number of different ways. Do what I do. If you feel like climbing in Leavenworth or the Tooth or wherever, just beat the Mountaineers to the crags. Get up an hour earlier and start climbing. They show up, they act as if we're climbing on their crag, and then they must wait until we're done. We're very polite unless they jump in our face and then we leave when we're done. The mad rush to make up for lost time usually follows. I've seen rented school buses pull up in Icicle Canyon from which a division of Mountaineers emerge. I used to put up with their nonsense until one Saturday morning I showed up at a lovely little area to find a couple of dozen Mountaineers swarming over it. I asked when they would be finished and was told that they were using that crag for the entire weekend. No sir! As things tranpsired, they only used it for a portion of the next day...the afternoon.By the way, I saw the giant group at Spire Rock this weekend: a whole lot of new Mountaineers in the making. And one of the "instructors" (a graduate of last year's basic class) told me that they try to keep the group sizes down: only 8 - 12 people on the Tooth, etc.OY! Yeah, and you have a right to be on the train tracks when a train is coming, but I'd suggest getting out of the way! [ 03-04-2002: Message edited by: David Parker ]

Another thing I heard a long time ago is that the weight of all that ocean water actually compresses the sea floor and buoys, if you will, the continental land masses. While I'm not sure if I believe that, I will say that the bottom of the ocean surrounding the Hawaiian islands would not be this new datum. Therefore, it would not be correct to say Mauna Kea is the tallest summit when measured from ANY "datum". It is the tallest summit, however, from it's head to its toe. Attempting to calculate the height of the mountains on earth after removing all the earth's water is rediculous! Take away the water and this is no longer earth, nor would we be here to even think about it! (and why that quote above by Klenke didn't appear in bold is beyond me!) [ 03-04-2002: Message edited by: David Parker ]

I'm no geologist but somehow they determine where the base is and how it sets on a land mass that is not part of the mountain. The himalayans sit on a rather high plateau. Denali's base on the other hand is not far above sea level. The St. Elias Mountains are also TALL. I don't know about that river vally next to Dhalaguri, but I'll bet it is still pretty high above sea level. Personally, measuring the mountain from the "center of the earth" is of no meaning to me and I think it is a rediculous technicality. Measuring mountains will always be controversial, but I believe the fact that they extend under the surface of the water doesn't disqualify them if that's were you have to go to get to the base. [ 03-04-2002: Message edited by: David Parker ]

Klenke, nice to see you use the proper term "highest" to describe the elevations of the mountains. As a fellow "stickler" for details, I am chagrined when people, especially climbers intermix highest, tallest and biggest. I believe Mauna Kea (Hawaii)to be the tallest volcano (and mountain) on the planet, coming in somewhere at 31,000 ft. Of course this is measuring the mountain from the ocean floor. The tallest (base elevation to summit) mountain above sea level is Denali. Everest is of course the highest (raw elevation) above sea level. Correct me if I'm wrong!