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Everything posted by David_Parker

  1. We really were hoping to send in one day. If we made it to the gendarme with enough light to climb it, we would climb through the night. It would be a tough route to carry bivy gear on. And no Bug, if I was a hard man, I guess we would have suffered through the night and kept going. But damn, 15 hour long nights are hard to take for me! Wayne did not have any gear stashed up there. Rumor has it someone else we know does. The idea of carrying bivy gear around to the notch where the upper ridge starts has been brought up, but Wayne and I think it's cheating. At least now the lower section has been done in winter and hopefully provides inspiration to others. The upper section was done a while ago. Someday someone will connect the whole thing. I'd just like to say I was glad to be with Wayne on that route. That guy is truly a great all round climber and he deserves most of the credit for getting us up.
  2. Elevation and stoves

    We used a pockety rocket and msr cannister for 4 days on Mt. Stuart last week with no problems. You can warm the cannister up in about 3 minutes by putting it in your armpit or crotch. We used a hanging stove setup so the canister wasn't in the snow. It wasn't super cold though either.
  3. Olympic Peninsula?

    Bainbridge Island
  4. Draw without a sling... good idea?

    Looking at the guys shoes and the fact he appears to be standing in aiders, that pitch was probably done on aid. The 2 biner system is common on aid. The leader probably back cleaned the empty bolt.
  5. Name My Dog

    A ski patroler at Park City with an avalanche dog told me that a dog's name should be two distinct syllables. They respond better and know when you are calling them. Their dog was "heyduke". Mine was Triglav (higest mountain in Yugoslavia). A lot of suggestions made so far meet this theory. Just my $.02. "Alpine" would cover a lot, but Kurt might get confused! I notice you live in PDX. What about Yocum or Cooper?
  6. mini ice screws placement test

    Yo, technophobes...does this shit mean that much to you. How many of you are actually falling on your screws? Ice climbers should not be falling period. Your tools and what's in your head are your pro. If you fall on a screw in good ice, it will probably hold. If it's in shitty ice, well it probably won't matter if it's a BD or a Grivel. If you're mixed climbing, use the bolts. If you want to analyze torque and moment in something we actually experience on a regular basis, lets start a thread in the freshies thread about risers for ski bindings. later......
  7. hanging stoves

    I was comparing the two stoves and Giga actually seems to fold up smaller with same output and basic specs. But Someone said the msr pocket works with hnging stove for sure. Does Giga work for hanging. Do you have any other preference between the 2?
  8. The Dolomites are really nice and generally better weather. Or you could go to Canada and save $ and get better conditions! A lot of brits ski Whistler instead of the alps for that reason.
  9. Tire chain recommendations?

    I used to think chains were not necessary for 4x4. But when my Toyota Tercell slid sideways under a semi on Snoqualmie Pass, I reconsidered. I heard Les Schwab will buy back your chains at the end of the season if they are unused. I drove a Subaru Forester with 4 people into the Ghost using chains on all 4 tires. I saw other vehicles struggling in spots we rallied right through. With a pickup, you are light in the rear anyway. Buy real chains even if for just the weight in the back!
  10. All season Tires

    Need new tires for my 4-runner. What store or particular tire is good? Typical to our varied conditions of extreme wet and snow.
  11. badass solo rescue

    This is why it is good to always have a knife handy as well!
  12. Frozen Fingers

    To add to the fine advice from the chicks with picks.... I think one mistake common to many ice climbers is using TOO warm gloves. The extra padding makes it harder to grip the tools and the harder you grip the more restrictive blood flow. Climb in thinner gloves and carry warm mittens or gloves for the belay. Often I find my first lead still gives me the barflies, but thereafter I'm fine for the rest of the day. After you get your tool in, you barely need to grip if you are using leashes. With experience, you will also learn you don't need to bury that tip for it to be secure. Then you don't have to struggle to get it out which also takes more grip. All climbing is really with your feet, so unless it is vertical to overhanging, you shouldn't need to be hanging much on your leashes. Keep your heels low, and (as they say in windsurfing) "fuck the ice" aka push your hips in. I guess what I'm saying is that good technique will help too!
  13. Toes down or Heels down

    Heels down 4-sure. The idea is the front points AND the secondary point work better and cause less fatigue on your legs. The kick you use should be swinging your leg more from the hip than the knee. Ever hear of climbers complaining of burning calf muscles. This tends to happen on lower angle stuff because they get stretched more and it's more difficult to engage secondary points. What the hell book were you reading anyway?
  14. Free TV!

    perfect chance to KILL YOUR TV! nothing beats an imploding tv tube....have fun with it while you're at the dump!
  15. All season Tires

    At Discount tire: Bridgestone Dueler a/t revo- $730 (best rated tire) BF goodrich a/t, t/a ko- $637 Michelin atx a/t-$790 Yokahama geolander a/t plus II- $594 guy says Yoko is a great tire for price and best "value". Any one have these?
  16. Best Ice Climbing Gloves?

    The best ice gloves are the ones having the most fun!
  17. Profanity in the CAG

    Dru, nobody refers to his books by volume #. It's red, green or tan (formerly brown). The green book is the latest new edition that came out this summer and Goode is in the green book. I don't have a clue what Vol. III is!
  18. Profanity in the CAG

    I think he was refering to what ones says 1/2 way down the bedwyn (sp?) couloir on Goode.
  19. I agree with Matt. That gulley is the key and close to the summit. I've skiied it!
  20. Leashless is NOT new!

    Leashless climbing must have begun way back in the 50's when the hardmen were first learning steep ice climbing. Here's proof! On ebay.....
  21. Hanging belays on ice

    I usually try to orient the screws vertically too. If they are bomber, 2 should be fine. Tools should not be considered valid belay anchors. Try loading one and see what happens. In the Alpine I might use a tool to help equalize, but not in a hanging belay. When using a tool. don't clip your leash, but the hole in th end of the shaft. I will belay the follower off the anchor and tie him off when he arrives. I like being able to have him locked off by using a reverso while I belay while I shake out my hands, put on a jacket or find food in my pack. I would not like my belayer fuzing around like this if he was belaying me off his harness! If he leads the next pitch, then I'll belay off my harness while he leads.
  22. Looking for route suggestions

    Unfortunately fellow New Englander, this aint New England where you can go out to the cliffs and ice climb on a reliable schedule. The best tool for ice climbing around here is a decent car and gas! However if you liked winter alpine climbing in the White Mountains, prepare to have even more fun around here. Take a drive over the North Cascades Hwy before it closes and then pray for some cold weather so we get ice in either eastern WA or Lillooet, Canada.
  23. Where to stay near Hood

    My son and I are headed to Bend for TG weekend. Want to leave Seattle Wed afternoon. I Would like to stay somewhere past Gresham like Sandy or even up in Gov camp. Any cheap hotels. Of course we'd take a floor/couch too somewhere! Anyone with a kid who wants to meet in Smith on Friday or Saturday pm me!
  24. Leashless is NOT new!

    They should make a scary movie with this "weapon". Hey, lets buy it and give it to glassgowkiss. That would be scary!
  25. Need some advice

    Hurricane Ridge and you can hike out towards Hurricane Hill on rented snowshoes and have hot chocolate in the lodge. Just make sure it's open. It was closed all this weekend due to ice on the road. Wew, that pesky ice! North Cascades hwy is a winner no matter what. Do the whole loop. Go through Darrington, if it's open, take the Mountain Loop hwy to get to Darrington. Both these offer short little hikes to see a waterfall, or some other side attraction. Pick something that is new to you too!