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Everything posted by dberdinka
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bold slashes with a suttle background of light clawing on a seemingly opaque medium remind us all of the universal struggle to define what a meanigful existence is......
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Missing Bolts on Monkey Face Aid Route...
dberdinka replied to Lambone's topic in Rock Climbing Forum
Reuse the holes! If that means drilling it out to 3/8" so be it. That is a lot better option than drilling new holes next to the old ones IMHO. Clipping fixed gear is clipping fixed gear, if someone is going to be bent out of shape that a bolt ladder is in good condition they should be aiding up that big scary wall near the parking lot! -
Lost: Gray/Purple 8.1mm rope on Liberty Bell
dberdinka replied to MysticNacho's topic in Lost and Found
Ugghh. Sorry to hear it. How did the broken ankle occur? -
[TR] North Twin Sister- West Ridge 6/8/2004
dberdinka replied to ashw_justin's topic in North Cascades
Evidently that face was a bit of a "test piece" ski descent back in the 80's. I believe it saw numerous descents. Darin -
The NE buttress of Goode and NE Face of Redoubt are undoubtedly super bitchen. My dream week would be to hike in Downey Creek to Dome Peak, climb Dome, cross the Chikamin Glacier, climb Sinister and sweet granite on the Gunsite Peaks, hit Agnes if you have time then hike south across the Hanging Gardens to Image Lake and out via the Suiattle River. That would be the schiznit.
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You can be as as you want about it. But it's just amazing how shit rolls of Bush Jr. like mercury.
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Here's a quote from that press conference of his back in April. "freedom is the Almighty's gift to every man and woman in this world. And as the greatest power on the face of the Earth, we have an obligation to help the spread of freedom." Well there's his justification for the driving force of our foreign policy.
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Last year I was in the Cirque from July 2nd through the 7th. No snow. In 1998 I was in the Cirque and Deep Lake area for about 10 days from June 21 through July 1. Lots and lots of snow, though it melted fast and we did lots of climbing. Darin
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And this will somehow be more productive for them than say looking at guidebooks or a recent copy of Rock&Ice proudly displaying the longest blted sprt climb in the world? Exactly what beta will they be looking for? Best I can tell is that they will find that a vocal minority here is not impressed with engineering of blted climbs in what have tradionally been wild areas. In fact that might be considered a good thing if they realize not all climbers are running around with Bosch in hand, or support such activity. So exactly what is being said here that is so harmful to climbers?
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As well as for the big quake. Shit!
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AAaaaaaghhh! Don't post that shit, it gives me anxiety!
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Woke me up as well in Bellingham. More of a deep rumble than an explosion.
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Waddington Guide = Inspiration Coast Range Picture Book = photos of obscure snowy ridges All books sold EN MASS to one fellow spraymeister. Sorry guys!!
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Particularly sad considering your alpine success ratio. Sorry Mike, couldn't help myself...
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Very well put
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I've always wanted to do the Macrabe-Matiarche-Grimface traverse up in Canada just above the Okanogan. See the red beckey guide or ask Dru. 7 hour approach, to long mid-5th ridge traverse. Looks amazing. In the Swatooths of Idaho there are many remote low-5th climbing objectives. Warbonnet Peak (II 5.6) was one of the finest trips I ever did, didn't see a soul.
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Books for Sale I'll give preference to those who can pick up in B'ham or those who order in bulk. I'll add cost on shipping. Picture/History/Nonfiction Books Mountains of the Coast - hardcover, J Baldwin $10 The History of the 8000-Meter Peaks - hardcover, Sale & Claire, 2000 $10 Stone Crusade, J Sherman, 1999 -signed by my mother!!!- $10 This Game of Ghosts, J Simpson, 1993 $5 Royal Robbins-Spirit of the Age, P Ament, 1992 $5 GuideBooks Oregon Oregon Rock - A Climbers Guide, J Thomas, 1983 $5 Oregon High, J Thomas, 1993 $5 Washington Leavenworth Rock, Kramer, 1996 tattered-free Icicle Canyon Rock Climbs, Kramer, 1989 -Collectors Item!- $5 Wyoming Teton Classics, R Rossiter, 1994 $5 Canada Skaha-New Climbs, K Mclane, 96 free How-to-Rock-Climb Series How to Rock Climb v2, J Long, 1993 $5 Big Walls, J Long & J Middendorf, 1994 $5 Climbing Anchors, J Long, 1993 $5 Other Instructional Glacier Travel & Crevasse Rescue, A Selters, 1990 $5
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In another post MattP refers to an ascent of the same face about 20 years ago by David Whitelaw and partner. We can presume they took a less direct line and might have even placed some bolts, but big routes on big faces can be established without having to rap bolt them first. Of course they were inconvienced by a round-about and difficult descent......thank goodness that's no longer an issue.
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Drive my car from Bellingham to Seattle???
dberdinka replied to David_Parker's topic in Climber's Board
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So apparently there were two meetings? Climbers getting together last night to organize? Then a meeting today with DNR? My apologizes I assumed there were two meetings with DNR. Sounds more like the WRDC then the WCC, Washington Route Developers Coalition.
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Clearly there was no desire to notify the climbing public at large that such a meeting was taking place. If there was an interest in doing so this website would be an obvious place to post such a message. Rather, it would appear, a small group of individuals chose to limit knowledge that such a meeting was taking place and, with all probability, tried to pass of their objectives and opinions as the of climbers as a whole. Thats pretty friggin weak! Some of the people who apparently attended are pretty adament about insisting that all climbers get more involved with land management. Yet when the oppurtunity arised they kept mum in an attempt to control the dialog. Thats actually really friggin weak!
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Climbing, sport climbing, mountain climbing are legitimate activities. Doesn't mean they are always legitimate, everywhere. Where do you draw the line? Seems like it should fall somewhere on this side of trying to turn a mountain into a sport route. Nevermind the ethics of climbing (apparently there no longer are any) Infinte Bliss is a huge friggin engineering project with bolts placed to not only ensure safety but to ensure convience as well. If climbers can construct such an entity along with the trail to reach it, why should hunters not be allowed to build cabins, or bikers trails? Furthermore the publicity surrounding the route along with its "sport" designation seems like an accident waiting to happen when you factor in all the alpine characteristics of loose rock, long descent, route finding, weather etc that many a "sport" climber is possibly not equiped and experienced enough to realize and handle. When the clusterf*&k happens who's going to be responsible for the rescue/cleanup? Some element of the government I assume. Climbings great, clipping bolts is sweet, but at some point enough is enough. Good luck!
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Where does one find these satellite/aerial photos????
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Based on photos posted around here earlier looks like you should expect a lot of snow and wet rock on Backbone. Have a good time.