dberdinka

FREAKIN CLASSIC!!! AND THE BEST ADVICE HERE IMHO

I think this idea got discarded around 1897. However it seems like a great rational for feeding the ego of Cascade "alpinists".

Two dozen pitches in L-Town. Bootied a cam, passed noobs via the Remorse variation to OS (Remorse = ), did a comparitive taste test of Heidelburger vs Gustavs (Gustavs just barely), avoided the tool at our illegal bivi, hung out with Larry.

For all that acreage of granite it blows my mind that only a handful of routes ever get done. OS and Orbit must take 95% of traffic with Iconoclast, Hyperspace and MJD taking another 4%. What's worth investigating in the other 1%? The other day I was eyeing the beautiful splitters on the East Face of Easter Tower and some awesome looking corners above it on an old line called Nailway. Both lines look stellar and probably just need a day of vigorous scrubbing. Anyone ever get on these? How about the Northern Dihedral? Evidently it's seen some traffic lately? Galaxy? Chimney Sweep? Chtong? All the acreage around April Fool's Tower? Whats up

Dove!? The pool's about waist deep and the cliffs are about 20' tall. Definitely a cleansing of the gene pool.

As if you two yocals would say otherwise!

Off topic, but whats up with the weird little wooden cross by the waterfall/swimming hole where the road crosses Asbestos Creek? Kinda ruins the atmosphere. Matt do you have anymore info? How long has it been there. Darin

Outside the trade route what about them big NW facing slabs leading to pillars on the Hook Creek side of the tower you can see from around Icicle Buttress. It's hard to believe no one's checked it out!?

I thought all the legends got scared off?....spill the beans!

The internet has certainly foisted somewhat of a moral dilema onto the traditional booty ethic of "finders keepers loosers weepers". Spray all over someone elses loss is weak, snagging and keeping booty is not. In fact I think it's a fine part of the climbing tradition and something to look forward too. Years ago I lost a cam at the crux of a multipitch climb when my follower could not clean it. It of course probably disappeared the next day. Earlier this spring I had the delight of finding and bootying someone elses stuck cam at the same place. Karmatic cycle complete! This forum should be dumped. At the very least, as someone else suggested, don't read it if you've been bootying gear and you won't have ethical dilemnas to resolve!

I'm considering lazing about the enchantments in the middle of August for a few nights. Of course this requires getting the dreaded permit. The permit process is completely archaic! Basically you've got to send them your money and then they'll tell you if any space is available. Anybody out there familiar with how booked up the Enchantments typically are? Am I wasting my time even trying to jump through their hoops?

Some potential splitters there on the lower right hand corner. So what's access like?

I hear it's a lot easier than it looks. Like 11- with great gear. You should jump on it for the on sight Frosty!

Oh the consternation and outrage!

I HATE AMERICA.... for all the god damn suit-wearing, tubby, half-balding, comb-over fucks commuting half way across the county in their pristine and shiny F350s, Ram 2500s and the occasional Hummer to their friggin office job. Something about those folks really grates me. Why do you hate America......?

Assuming you can get to the end of the road the approach is short on a great trail. Maybe 1.5 hrs to the base of the South Buttress. That road certainly has the potential for washing out in a few sections. Call Valhalla Pure in Nelson.

It's like a little slice of Index transported to Squish.

BulletHeads Someone wanna tell me how to start up this 16 pitch 10a/b linkup Dru was sprayin about??

Thats a fine, fine line. Congratulations.

Victims of hypothermia often times begin shedding their clothing. This isn't the first time that bodies have been recovered in various stages of undress. Your remarks are incredible crass, pathetic really.

I need to get to Spain in a hurry..... Picked up off of rockclimbing.com

I think it's completely understandable that route finding would be difficult using Kramer's latest guide. It does a great job of describing small crags and a horrible job of describing the longer routes.

Those are infact bail slings from climbers who realized they were off route. The "real" third pitch of OS begins about 20' left of the crackline you climbed. What you did is apparently harder, or at least much pumpier.

The UTW aid routes tend not to have consistent size cracks so you don't need a huge rack. A set of micro nuts, a complete set of stoppers, two sets of cams to 2" plus 1 set 2" to 4". 1 cam hook and 1 skyhook are neccessary as well. I've always used a big hook too but I doubt it's essential. Green Drag-On has a lot of pin scars compared to other lines so Aliens, offset brass and camhooks come in very handy.

This is the type of on-line advice I just love. Giving fairly serious advice to someone of unknown abilities about an "easy" day trip you recently did in For what it's worth a majority of climbers tend to climb north side routes from a bivi.