layton

Way to go Coley and Erik! Ya'll scored some nice plums. What did you think of the climbs?? I am jealous! -Mike

Best one I ever saw was on Mt.Gimley in the Valhallas. Starts out, "Came here to die...life sucks..." Next entry, "looking for bob, hope he's okay, we love you" Next entry: Sherrif's Office, "haven't seen bob" Anyway, my party never found "bob" or his wallet anywhere the base. Guess he didn't need it or his gear. Damn.

My life will end..... ....... .......... ............now.

I was sent home once b/c they were working up there and the guy at the gate wouldn't let me pass. CALL BEFORE YOU GO!!! See Beckey guide for the #. Also Beckey's driving direction are confusing. Turn left just before the road that crossed HWY 20. Don't go back over hwy 20, instead, follow your nose to the gate-only .25-.75 miles from the road. Good luck on the logging road. Bring a bike for God's sake.

They resoled my Mythos and Boulders. They did a great job, and quick too! Dave Page blows .

quote: Just led every pitch on DNB of Bear Mt. Seriously? Wow! Nice job!

Haven't had time to look up all the routes mentioned. I've always paused while guide book flippin' at the neswatch notch route. No photo, and in McLane's guide, it is devoid of the "ice" mentioned in beckey. I've got an old xerox for grimface, I think it's a don serl article. Saw some cool articles on James Turner, Judge Howay, Arctic Wing on Slesse, and others. Our CAJ selection is very poor at the WWU library. I'm at the public library right now waiting for my Dad to finish his research. Maybe they've got some info. Wait, I checked em out. Nice job on Plinth! More homework...I may have a job soon so I may have to audit this class. [ 08-13-2002, 05:32 PM: Message edited by: michael_layton ]

Check bivouac for Urquhart, looks blah blah from the West. I assume there is a steeper aspect? Beckey's guide says Northgraves is "fuckin' heinous dude." HAve you done it? I have no idea what LBD mean, "lower buttress direct"? Isn't that in the guide. I've had my eye on Illusion due to Beckey's guide. Howay is a big scary moutain with my name all over that mother, and epic too. Blanshard looks pretty, kinda like a chair peak. The needle looked neat. Reh looked like a nice jaunt. I also discovered stone rabbit from that dude Kobus's website. That dude is hard-core, and a good photographer. Scuzzy looked neat too Dru. See I'm in "school", I did my "homework". Any more assignments?

It doesn't exist. A huge practical joke set up by a joint venture between Beckey, USGS, and Green Trails. What you see from Stuart is an Optical Illusion. If you try and take that trail from the car, there is a pit w/bodies, skeletons, etc..

The first 4 pitches are fine. The 4th class simul area isn't "fun" simul-climbing, a'la Slesse. Takes 10 minutes so no big deal. The fin is good rock. The base of the fin totally blows, however. The worst rock appears on the other side of the notch on top of the fin. Horrid. BUT, most of the rock is just fine, and talk about a cool situation. My TR may suggest I didn't like the route due to the rock. This wasn't the point I was trying to make. There is bad rock, but the coolness of the whole bag put together makes the Backbone a sweet friggin climb. There are many route with much better rock. Also the grades are WAY soft (except for the O.W.). You gotta figure out the fin your yourself. Every guidebook shows a different way, Nelson's being the hardest. We went 1/2 way up the ramp below the fin. Then up on disgusting rock to a ledge. Next pitch went up and right to awesome twin cracks and a layback/jamcrack to the top of another ledge(Nelson has this as the previous pitch...one missing). Next pitch goes up a steeper crack w/an easy layback flake near the start. Either find a belay somewhere on this pitch or go right (not left into the notch...bad rock, run-out, and hard climbing) into some overlaps until you crest the fin.

quote: Have a good man. Uh....no thanks.

Did it w/Necronomicon yesterday. Met FixedPin and IanE(sp) near the top. We left from the car, they camped up high. Short approach. Amazing climbing, lots of little cruxes. Kinda like a really really long 2nd coulior on Dragontail. Fixed pin and party took a different finish than we did (off route). Haha. Actually, it's all about the same (unless you get screwed). As for the D- rating, i'm sure it's very conditions dependant, but it had me worked at the end way more than some of his D+, or TD routes. The best part is the vomit inducing 1st view of the mountain when you drive up. You're like, "Oh my God there's no way I can do that." The climb gets less and less steep as you approach it. It is the weirdest "aspect changer" I've ever seen. Conditions were soft snow w/neve, even one water ice belay. It was like, WTF, screws? We didn't bring pickets, maybe they'd help? Rather have tiny rock gear that holds more. Bring route/desent info along especially photos lest you be fucked. Bring rock gear, esp pins. I know i said I like to give beta so I get it back, but this one is a little better w/some mystery. Execpt I must say, don't get fucked on the desent. And don't underestimate the route. I thought about soloing it. No way. The actual coulior maybe, but not the approach or desent. I figured 2 hours max in the coulior, 3 hours on the approach (correct), 3 hours down. Double that (approx 15 hours car to car). Bring 2 ropes or a rap line. We climbed on one 8.0mm rope folded in half and simuled the whole thing. But, we'd have a much more interesting desent. The desent is rather, uh.....FUN! Thank you Fixed Pin and IanE(sp?) for teaming up with us on the desent. That sped shit up, eh? Ever part of yesterday was fun, full-on, and just a great day in the moutains. The drive home was hell unleashed. I'll try n' get photos. It's really neat lookin'. We saw a party heading to the Joffre Coulior. Looked like fun, but harder to get into. Did you guys get off by dark? Did you die? oh yeah, one more thing... ...NECRO CLIMBED IT W/A BROKEN RIB!!!!!! HARDMAN! Seriously. That's some pain tolerance for ya.

quote: *Hey Layton, what gives? Why be critical of someone elses fine report? Reread some of yours, notice any excessive details/spray? You chestbeaters who race home after your outings so you can "splatter" all about it on this site crack me up. Do you even make it in the house before you start spraying? Headspace, Hey, that's not nice I wasn't attacking you or Shane. It was just the most detailed TR i've ever seen and I felt compelled to give it a little jab in the ribs. You can't judge folks here cuz you can't see em, hear their tone of voice, or read their body language. As for spraying. I have given good beta in most of my TRs admist the spray. The only reason I post TRs is to give beta, hoping when I need beta, someone will return the favor. Plus they're fun to read and fun to write. Nice job Shane, thank for adding to the beta stockpile for folks to research. [ 08-09-2002, 02:06 PM: Message edited by: michael_layton ]

Had another climbing partner bail for a 4 day blitz. If you are his client on Shuksun right now, I hope you tell everyone at the office what a fucking hero you are for that photo of you and shucksun on your little office desk next to your stupid wife and ugly kids!

could you be a little more detailed?

I will only wear the Mythos until they are discontinued and then I'll stockpile. If any la sportiva reps are watching, don't fuck these shoes up like you (and every other company)do with everything else.

What's the dumbest thing you've ever heard while climbing, or climbing related, and what did you do? The one about if the "clips" were in place on prussik is a really good one. Mine is from an emloyee at Der Sportsman in Leavenworth in late June/Early July... "Drury Falls may be in". Der moron. I said thanks and held back the smackdown. On the Grand Teton a guy wanted my opionion if his rack of three sporto quick draws and two cams was enough. This should prove to be pretty funny, What do you guys have?

BASTARDS! Life may not be fair, but Alpine Climbing sure loves to rub salt in the wound. Not a good sport for folks who can only have things go there way. Good way to stock up on Karma for the next life. Did they like the climb they did on Ashlu? Two approaches, one broken partner, and more dirt and shrub grabbing than I can face. Who did it, and where do they live... ...not that I was planning on doing Ashlu or a new route on it or anything.

Forrest, Did you see or hear if the party (another Mike)to your left on Liberty Crack got up ok? I thought about you guys as I hiked out and your party and the lib crack party weren't very high and the weather loooked worsening. Nice Job!

So, what routes or mountains that are "good" are missing from McLanes guide? I know there are some like winter routes on the Cheam Peaks, Whitecap Pk, and Rideout/Payne cirque. Any more cool ice-capades. What about rock-climbs? As if my list isn't big enough...

Anyone done it? So how is it? I was gonna do it, but it was clogged w/folks.

Anyone want to climb something tue,wed,or thurs? Lookin' at Joffre Central Coulior possibly tue night/wed, or Tuning fork on Bardeen for a 2 day event. Both are in B.C. I'd like a partner who can lead 5.9-10a, or WI4 so we can travel relatively quickly over a lot of ground. Email me ASAP if you can go, even if we've already talked since it's hard remembering your log-in name if I don't know you. They all start to sound the same.

Great route. 2 brand new bolts in chimney, 2X4, and fixed gear galore. Did direct start from middle left side of base. Shaved off a pitch that way. When you get to the start of the corner (pitch 2,3,or 4?) stay in the corner instead of going left like nelson's guide shows. Awesome jamming. Bring some big cams. We rapped off -need 2 ropes. Easy, but our ropes got really stuck. Had to climb up on the one we pulled to fix it. Did it w/Fixed Pin(Richard) -awesome guy. We were gonna do Minuteman E.Face too, but there was a cattle train going up. Anyone done this route? How is it? Looks...uh...shitty, but I haven't done it so I can't really say and I'd like to do it anyway. Can never tell w/Burdo routes, eh? Good job Mike and partner on Liberty Crack, and Forrest and partner on Independance (voices carry). I hope you don't have to bivy tonight.

You've just described my entire climbing career. 1.drive and get lost 2.go back hike in to base and something goes wrong 3a.go back and climb or 3b.burn that page outta the beckey guide

check yo' PMS..., er I mean your PM's. [ 08-01-2002, 12:56 PM: Message edited by: michael_layton ]