layton

I remember that traverse! I found a placement for the 2nd. As I recall it was way low near my feet on the traverse (a green jr?). Anyway that was 4 years ago and it caused a SHITLOAD of ropedrag. I was scared. Tell your buddy to come over and I'll open picklejars for him if he'll push my ass on the wheelchair.

So how many people have I got in trouble w/my Autosig? I prefer skim milf myself. A tall cool glass....w/ a hummer of course...under the bleachers during soccer practice breath still sweet from the Latte.

Since I have nothin' better to do than read the damn things, what are the Best and Worst guidebooks for a Major area (so we know what the hell your talkin about)? Absolute Best-winner Kevin Mclane or Joe Joe 3 way tie for Squamish and SW BC Select or Waterfall ice. Squamish is good b/c of the printing quality, photos instead of topos, and relevant beta. also squamish kicks ass. SW BC has the same going for it, but a little more innaccuracies but the amazing photos and routes make up for it. I like the approach sections w/photos too. Good work KEvin. But Joe Joe ties it also b/c of the shear enormity of his book and I haven't cursed him once while route finding or approaching. Something to be said for that. Awesome photos, could use more though. Worst: No questions, Red Rocks by Todd Swain. Horrid photos or lack thereof, something that is easily fixed. He has glaring misinformation or lack thereof. The worst part is after 3 or 4 revisions, he hasn't fixed any of his previous errors! Bound shit.

After listin' to a strung out girl freakishly talk about jesus,satan,life,love,the earth, blah blah blah in some meth induced lunacy, I headed out from in front of Stuarts after my "morning" coffee. I rented a wheelchair since both feet are broken and I'm suck of only being able to crutch one or two blocks. I armed my chair with my anti-aircraft guns (stapped my cruches on the arm rests) in case I had to drag my chair behind me on crutches on rought trail like I did when I tried to do a loop around lake Padden, or when I flew out of controll onto the wet grass. Anyway I armed myself w/bike gloves after a short stop at Kulshun Cycle and took off down Chestnut/Roeder Dr. I tried to controll me speed as I zipped down the long slope towards G.P. My chair hit it's dissonant frequency and shuddered and shaked violently. Top speed around 5-7 mph before it starts to rumble. I visited the Coast Guard Station and the Marine Life Center after fighting with a very pesky bump in the middle of the sidewalk. I should sue! With my shirt off and shorts on I soaked up the sun and wind of the coast, watching boats, people, seagulls, and waves go by on my not-so 4wd shit box chair. An hour later I was at Zurmich Point, the historic site where our banished comprade Necronomicon was married in a Universal Church of Life ceremony as no holy sacrament would get near the fucker. A cool breeze dried the tears of that nostaligic moment and I did circles on the grass and read a little Lonesome Dove. Two hours and two sore arms later, I have raced to the B'ham Public Library to chestbeat and spray about my cliffhanger of a journey. All regail in my glory and conquest.

In addition, any of you who are coming, please bring me your unfinished vicodin, percocets, hydrocodine, etc. I haven't had a pain killier in 2 weeks (cept for alcohol and sleeping pills). I'm also up for hittin the bars everday of the week w/pretty much anyone. 360-756-6927

I'm back if anyone wants to get wasted. Someone who knows my #, give me a call as to when and where. I am free anytime due to my lack of mobility.

I may be back on tuesday evening. My surgery was a success I guess? I am in total constant pain and am now confined to a wheelchair. Fucking pins!

I need someone to drive me and my truck from Vegas to B'ham or within 5 hours of B'ham after the 13th. I'll go so far as to pay for gas the whole way. Need a ride? If not, please stay off I15, I84, I82, and I5 as I attempt to drive myself w/my trecking poles. Yeee fuckin haw!

Thanks for replyin'!!! That's good news, I'm icing at least 12+ hours a day and taking my prescribed 2400mg of IBU daily. Surgery in 5 days, and I'm bringing my camera. Can we webcast it?

Thanks for the support y'all. I've been watching a lot of TV and drinking lots o' . As soon as I get a ride to the library or bookstore, I'm gonna try and learn French and/or Spanish through a book or tape. Unfortunately my guitar is at Necro's house. No pool table, but we've got a weight room and a ping-pong table. Ping pong is way out, however. I gotta wait till I can exercise since my arm, neck, and back still hurt. Good call on the bad karma. A few weeks earlier Matt anderson and I were hiking in to climb the Fox and I looked up and saw it the first time. So I naturally said, "Sweet Jesus!" As it turns out, some dude up hiking nearby and asked me if I was looking for Jesus in a real brainwashed "I'm a big freak" sorta tone after he mistook my exclamation of awe for the rockclimb for some pathetic cry for salvation. Anyway...I told him, "No I'm not looking for Jesus, I found him in a bag of Orange Sunshine years ago." I broke my foot in almost the same spot I said that. Thanks Jesus.

50 feet into a moat on shucksun, unroped. Landed on my back. Hurt my knee, crawled and walked out. Fell 10' onto an icescrew that Gene Pires told me not to put in. 20 feet (not too far) with my 1st climb ever w/Necro about 4 years ago. Landed upsidedown on a #1 nut. Necro found his partner. 15' onto my back and feet friday. Broke both feet.

I was downclimbing the last bit of the Fox in Redrocks since my ropes didn't quite reach after toprope-soloing it and slipped. I fell 15 feet, bounced off my back (which is slightly fucked) and landed on my lovely unpadded rockshoes. I broke my right foot (4 metatarsals) and could see the bones pushing up under the skin. (puke). My left foot hurt too and I couldn't put much weight on it either (1 broken metatarsal). I crawled out on my hands and knees down the rocky slope for about 90-120 minutes through the quickest way (through cactuses and scrub oak) and cut the shit out of my arms and legs. Then I dragged myself down the trail for another hour until someone spotted me about 75 yds from the car and called in the rescue which I yelled at him not to do. Instead of giving me a walking stick, 20 SARS backboared me to an ambulance after waving off the helicopter that landed next to me. Then in the ambulance a newbie got to put in my I.V. for the 1st time and magaged to get it in, but the he turned around and walked into the hose going from my vein to the bag. The needle didn't rip out cuz I grabbed him by the shirt and told him not to make another fucking move. They rushed me to the wrong hospital (there's one 3 blocks from my house) far far away from home and there were no beds so they stuck me in the hallway for 3 hours still on the backboard to stare at the ceiling. Oh, did I mention they forgot to pad the backboard? Ok, so after 3 hours on an unpadded backboard, your broken feet strapped tightly to the board start to hurt just a bit more, and the occipital protruberance on your skull kinda aches. You smashed back cramps up just a wee bit. Finally some off duty doc saw my agony and cleared my spine so I could get of the board. Oh wait, before all this. I had to take a piss really bad. So the paramedic who had to wait for me to be admitted gets a pee bottle and holds up a sheet to hide me pissing. Pissing into a bottle on your back strapped in really good is not easy so I grabbed some excess blanked she was holding and used it to collect all the spillage going on. When I was done she split and left me with a urine soaked blanked to keep me warm. I had to use it cuz I was shivering from cold and shock. I finally got moved to a bed and was left there for 3 more hours. Until the x-ray guys wheeled me in and took photos. They said I was, "fucked". 2 hours later a nurse came by and gave me 2 codine tablets. My 1st painkiller since my fall. I wanted more. My feet were puffing up like a sausage left on some forgotten tube-stuffer set on extra-plump. Finally Andrew (the guy whose foot got smashed on the Cloud Tower TR-ironic) and Jason Martin show up with sodas and burritos. Jason, the intellectaul writter, brings me Newsweek. Maxim and Weekly World News wan't coming. Andrew stays a bit longer to witness a true scream as the RN pulls quick hard traction on my toes. It's now midnight, some dude wraps my feet in an ace wrap and puts a splint on my right foot. He tells me my metatarsals are broken....really, no shit I think. Another hours passes and I get my I.V. pulled and am told to go home. I get a the number of a surgeon. This was friday. The surgeon can be reached on Monday (today). I get a prescrition for codine and ibu. The hospital pharmacy closed for an hour right after I got there. Fuck. I never saw a doctor, and no one ever once gave me ICE for my feet (which were never elevated). Even after I asked, and Andrew asked...no fucking ice. I got let go from my job today, but I saw the surgeon. My feet were too puffy to get surgery today, so I gotta wait a week from tuesday (tomorrow) for surgery on both feet. Relocation, reductions, and pins pins pins. I wonder if they are B.D. or Charlet pins? Maybe Ushba? I got a bag of frozen peas on my left, and a bag of frozen corn on my right. I guess when this is over, I can have some fuckin kick-ass succulant suckitash, assuming I progress to lima-beans and carrots. I'm going up to Bellingham when I can drive. Hopefully in two weeks. Nobody climb shit till I get better, although I already got about 300 pitches in since the 1st of the year. I've been skippin' the codine and taking my ibu, ice, and lots and lots and lots of See you guys soon hopefully.

Just broke 4 metarsals on my right foot and one on my left. I'm getting surgery to have them reset and pins put in next week. Anyone broken these bones before? All I wanna know is how fucked am I, or when can I put on my rockshoes and climb some shit besides the tooth. also, any estimates on driving abitilty? How long before I can leave this shitty town Las Vegas and get back to B'ham in my manual truck?

What's up w/N.Face of N.Peak of Index in winter being overrated? Just curious.

No avy danger here, but the hottub whore party danger is exteme. I've already got two dead ones stuffed under the mattress!

The 1st crux is definitely 12- w/no loose blocks (you don't rap the route), and the 2nd crux is 11+ (maybe solid 11). End of discussion. The whole point was the story about Andrew's foot epic. Bug's story is better anyways.

Last Year's TR

There's a TR from the perspective of my turd somewhere on this site about this route. If fat, it would be ez WI4 probably. It was pretty slim pickens on our way up and a seriously soft snow climb (read: no downward force on snow, only side pressure bear hugs and no gear after the ice.) Bury your pack maybe for pro, or better yet bring a couple shovels.

Someone make this thread a sticky, it is super helpful. I'd bookmark it, but I ain't got me own computer.

Can't resist writting TR...fighting urge....uhgggg. I give in. I did Cloud Tower with my friend Andrew yesterday (best climb in Red Rocks) and we pulled a computer monitor sized boulder down whilst unsticking our ropes from a shrub. Luckilly I was facing downhill so I didn't see it happen, but it roared down and landed squarely on Andrew's rockshoe'd foot. It sliced right through the leather on top and was gnarly looking upon 1st inspection. We high-tailed it to the ER and after 4 hours of waiting (for him, my house is 2 blocks away so I was getting quietly drunk) all he needed was 8 stiches on one toe, nothing broken! The crazy part was, that the cut was on the underside of his toe? Go figure. I though he was gonna lose some toes. -1 of the nine lives that day. I think I've got one or two left, no more for sure. How's the weather and the job scence up there? ps. Dan McQuade and his partner (who did the actuall climbing) put up a final pitch on this route that goes at 12c/d. It has bolts and tcu's for gear. I got to watch them finally free it as they were a pitch ahead of us. We obviously didn't follow them as that is way way over my head.

I know I'm not a PNW climber for now and this has nothing to do w/ the north cascades, but I know lots of folks talk about doing this route. Jason Martin, Jay Hack, Justin Thibault, and I did this over the past 2 days. Overall the pitches really kinda sucked, but the route as a whole was awesome. Defintely the hardest longest route I've been on! Going as a team of 4 made it VERY slow going. We had two ropes and led pitches separetly. One of us managed to get all but 2 leads, but had to pull on some of gear on the higher pitches. One rope team led w/a pack and the partner followed w/ a pack. That team only carried an extra jacket for biving. The other two only had one pack w/a rock-wren sleeping bag, and a big down parka...not the way to go. The 2nd had a hell of a time w/this system. It didn't matter cuz all 4 of us were up there having fun, getting mad, and laughing our asses off. There were some shenanagins w/ one of the leaders getting off route, and one of the 2nds getting the rope stuck behind a cam while cleaning the roof w/the huge pack on. Every pitch was hard, even the 5.7-5.2 piches being full on. If we did it right we could easily have gone car to car, but we had fun on the bivy ledge on pitch 17 getting drunk. Well at least I did. I only had a non-hooded jacket so I took 2 vicodin, 3 melatonin, 2 sominex, 6 shots of jim beam, and 1/2 a pack of smokes for my lighweight emergancy bivy kit. It got lit really quick and passed out not feeling cold until the sun hit and we got up to climb again. We ran into hordes of Africanized Honey Bees (killer bees), ran out of water on the blazing hot summit, and one of us took a leader fall. We also decided that if 911 were to be a broadway play, that "It's Raining Men" would be the showstopping tune...literaly. At Albertsons I kicked an old lady out of my way as I raced to the Beverage Boulvard and the doughuts. We then proceeded to have an orgy of food at the buffet. Gotta run, cuz I have a job to go to!

I glissaded down that route, much to the "shock and awe" of the gapers with binocs who thought I fell off the mountain.

Jason can't always be there. He's in J-tree doing AMGA crap. (Although he is fun to spray about the cascades with)

Dude, most of those routes these guys mentioned are pretty good. Get Swain's book if your gonna buy one. It's necessary. The Uriosite book is a good supplement cuz of the photos, although they gave Black Orpheus 17 pitches and we did it w/some simul and some solo in 3, some other weirdness too. Here's the plan: No warm up bullshit. Resolution Arete 20 pitches, one of the longest Black Orpheus linked w/Chicken Lips 20 pitches Sour Mash -a few pitches (5-7?) Dream of Wild Turkeys -a few pitches (same) Fiddler on the Roof -till we puke or fall. Other possibilites: Crabby Appleton, Prince of Darkness, Original Route. The new uriosite guide is pretty neat, but also pretty stupid. Go do a new route if you're already done all the classics which is easily doable in a few seasons here. The one pitch stuff mentioned earlier is all good route, but none are next to each other.

Fellow gapers, gumbie, and spraylords... I'm in Vegas and can't spray about the PNW w/anyone. If you're down here, I'll be working at the climbing gym off and on next to desert rock sports until my substitute teacher contract goes through. I live about 15 minutes from the park. I'll be here thru april, possibly end of may. 702-219-5786 -cell.