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Everything posted by layton
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I saw them in Chicago and Detroit back in my hippy drug days...mind blowing. I didn't get to see Roger Waters play with them or on his last solo tour. That would've been sweet. "You say the hills to steep to climb? Climbing. You say you'd like to see me try. Climbing. You pick the place and I'll chose the time."
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One more thing, Please post your TR! That's why we love this site.
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They don't have your real name, address, or phone # do they? If not, I wouldn't worry. If so, I'd call the police. If worse comes to worse, maybe you could leave the site open for TRs and conditions and require $$. I haven't had any disposable income for a long time, so I haven't contributed financially yet, but I will when I get a real job. I hope you understand that this is a VITAL rescouse for the NW climbing community. You should contact business and organizations in the PNW that directly or indirectly benefit from your site and ask them for financial support. I'd do something about the hatemail though. That's illegeal.
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I didn't notice the loose flake jammed in the crack. Either it's gone or I wasn't paying attenion. Felt solid, no hollow noises. We didn't rap the route cuz rapping from the top looked like hard rope pulling, and lower looked like rope stickin' territor. The 1st rap was our only loose rap, but the last tree rap was very scary since the tree is dead and it's almost freehangin.
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Pros and Cons of hitchiking is a Roger Waters solo album with Eric Clapton on guitar. It is the MOST depressing album of all time, but it's hauntingly beautiful. The actual song "Pros and Cons of Hitchiking" almost ruins the album, however. It's quite similar to the final cut, but much more bipolar.
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imagine the horror when he found the "other hole." Dear god.
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After much much much debate, I must concede that THE WALL is the all time most kick ass album ever fucking made. IT was hard since Dark side, WYWH, Animals, The Final Cut, and Meddle all get 5 stars too. BUT! If Pro and Cons of Hitchiking were a Floyd album then that would win hands down, but it's not. Best song. Wish you were here-only problem, not enough lyrics.
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I tried that (w/o the pot) and it was one of the biggest wastes of time ever. Ruins a perfectly good Floyd album. speaking of which...see new topic
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I;d be the munchkin that hung himself during the tin man scene.
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Your parents but you gear? I got a calandar.
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I still hate it, but it saves my ass from decking. $10 doesn't.
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Necro What a dick in the ass!
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Endurance is the most amazing hard core shit I have ever read or watched (the Movie and the Documentary). I think it would be fun to do some of the routes with the exact same gear the first ascentionist had. Then we'll see how hard core the old timers really were. For example, read about Phyllus and Don Monday's book and Mt Waddington, "MYstery Mountain." Although the book is as boring as a bag of doorknobs, these guys would haul wood up the glacier for their cookfires, and pack dirt on the ice so their horses wouldn't get scared, etc... Fuck that.
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I've got to test a lot of shit after working 3 different outdoor retail or guide related jobs in the past 7 years. Of course you don't need tech stuff to be hard core, thanks for that enlightening statement.
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the extra "b" was a typo. Climbed the NW corner of NEWS in the Ranch Room yesterday.It would've been the Beaver but there was no popcorn. Kept waiting for the waitress to come by at the belay. Helicopters were circling cows overhead getting that natural smoke flavor for the Oh Boy! Alberto jerky packs. Necronomicon got miners lung, but I had been training for this day by smoking many cigarettes pre-climb so I was perfectly acclimatized. I did feel dizy a couple times. Couldn't see the 4 horsemen drawing neigh, but it was low visibilbity. Basically WA pass was a smoke chocked bar room, couldn't see shit. Happened fast, cuz monday there was very good visibility and no smoke to be seen. As for the climb. It , but Necro hated it. Nelson is missing a pitch in his guidebook. Use the beckey guide if you want the correct topo. It doesn't matter concidering it's painfully obvious where to go, but a little disheartening when you think you've done the crux and you haven't. BTW, it's not that hard, and all you need is 2 #4 cams or one #4 and a #4.5. I used a similar size to a #4.5 camalot, but a flexible friend version. what a piece of shit! I can't even describe what a worthless cam this fucking shit job is. Don't but em. All and all a fun, but smokey, climb.
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Cool! Looked pretty gnarly up there as for snow/ice conditions.
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i have more bloody photos of other injuries in the mtns too
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Here's a list of stuff I love for alpine rock or Ice since I am bored and can't sleep. Feel free to argue. I'll edit and add/delete until it's perfect and everone looks like me in the mtns. Clothes: Montrail D9-better than boulders imho MEC schoeller pants Wildthings windshirt Marmot Driclime windshirt Patagonia Puffball (old version, or 2004 version) Marmot Parbat (w/o dryloft) Go light 6month night parka Arctyrx powershield bibs and jacket Patagonia silkweight cap poweshield balaclava or big wool hat Marmot light weight glove liners Patagonia stretchlight pants and jkt(or whatever they call it now) MEC vortex glove Cloudveil's ice flow glove smartwool mountaineer expedition socks woolrich merino wool ankle high lightwieght socks REI schoeller gaiters (sorry LaSportiva, your's suck) Bivy Gear: Nunatak 1/2 bag and or Moonstone Lucid Betalight tent w/BD flicklock poles (or leki) Bibler Winter Bivy Yellow Foam pad or ultralight 3/4 t-rest Evernew 1.3L titanium pot, MSR .75 titan pot, and pocket rocket make great hanging stove or an MSR wisperlight Bibler I tent Camelback unbottle 3L w/straight on/off valve Nalgenes w/OR bottle parka Tikka or MYO 3 Earplugs,sleeping pills, smokes in winston evo flask, and alberta premium bivy kit Aquamuira Cards, gameboy, or Minidisk Food: Cytomax and gu Nutrageous, and Fastbreak candy bars fuzzy peach canadian gummies (or watermellow sour patch kids) peperoni slices or jerky luna bars and zone bars peanut butter kudos cous-cous and soft packaged tuna cliff bar I hate so I won't eat it until I have too Tony's coffe, #2 coffe filter, and an over the mug plastic coffer filter holder thing Tools: Simond Fox icetool hammer Cobras BD express w/arctyrx clips 1/2 dome helmet BD camalots goddmanit aliens blue-red(not in icy routes though) tcu blue-orange metolius extractor neoprene case for camera DMM version of neutrinos Bluewater spectra shoulder slings Metolius rabbit runners OnSight webolette Petzel Attache locker haven't got a good ice boot I like yet Serratus Genie (add ice tool holsters, a pad, and a sternum) Wildthings Ice Sack or BD icepack or LoweALpine Alpine attack 40 (which is no longer made) spyderco tiny knife chalkbag w/clippers, tape, ibu, vicodin, sunscreen, lip balm in lower zipper pocket Arctyrx Verro harness mythos nuts and pins...whatevers cheap hotwires charletmoser screamers lockdown leash or yates leash clipped to axe head w/caribeaner On sight v-threader BD sabertooth crampon Charlet Moser M-10 Camp lightweight aluminum (the blue ones w/the platic strap on deal that weighs a 1lb for the pair) Bluewater icefloss 8.0m 70m Beal stinger rope 9.4 70m w/70m of 6mill cord Dermatone Z-coat
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Yeah the cover photo is awesome! Couldn't have picked a better photo, thank god it wasn't some poser climbing Drury!
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I live in a giant bucket
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Jordon and I went and did a craptacular route that suxed so bad we didn't bother to finish it. Here;s the scoop. The drive is 8 fucking hours north of bellingham down an excruciatingly long logging road thru some of the scariest little nowhere town's i've seen in the Cloudwaller(sp?) range. It was rainging and we check out the N.face some some peak, it looked like crap so we drove to the Incisor's Edge route Jordon did a month ago. He said it was perfect granite, but i wasn't excited as we slogged up snot-slick boulders totally hungover from drinking 375mL each of Brandy and Alberta Premium respectively and smoking way too many smokes. Go to the base and oh shit, the granite was perfect! Jordon jammed up a beautiful 2" handcrack and dissapeared. All I heard was some grunting, rockfall, "falling!", and "Mike do you want to finish this pitch?" Fuck. Ok so after taping Jordan's bloody fingers I headed up and finished the pitch witch turned into runout supersandy ledges (rollerskates on hard slab), then I busted out my ice tool to do a wild lunge across a fissure to a dirt patch then to the sappy belay tree. Jordan's next lead was equally spectacular. Busting out the ice tools several times to negotiate the dirt seracs and pasting knifeblades into incipient seams on ultra compact rock (ie, no cracks). I followed and had to empty my shoes of the dirt that had become packed in. I dirtwalked around the corner to find a blank headwall of ultra compact rock covered in sand and dirt which lead to a 80 degree 30meter slab with notta crack to a massive summit rock cornice of loose rubble. We didn't eat enough Luna Bars to calm down our pussies so we bailed, drove the 8 hours home while gettign two flat tires, fixing one with tire sausage , and the Jordon discoved he had no oil in the engine for the whole drive. You should go do it, it was fun. "Angry Nipple Discharge" 2+ pitches. Grage II, 5.fun