layton

For those of you who are curious about ol' gimpy... A tad over 2 months post op now. Gotten 28 pitches in this month somehow!?? Anyway I led a 5.0,5.7,5.8,and 5.9 just fine, although a little shakey on the wider foot jams, and followed a bunch of 10bs at sqaumish and Index. I made it all day craggin' but anything over a grade III+/IV harder rock climb would probably hurt too much. I was able to do Ruth in under 6 hours two weeks ago too. Guess I'll save the grade V's for august or sept. No excuses now.

Still hurts like hell, but found two possilble solutions. The one I tried is taping a cotton ball over the nail to pad it and distribute the force. Problem is the thing pulls off every time you take your shoes off. My 2nd option I haven't tried. Lidocane (hemeroid creme). The pharmasit says it;s the strongest over the counter topical antiseptic available. Dab some one the cotten ball and tape it on. Won't be able to try it for another week or so b/c I agreed to guide two 3 day trips for the outdoor center.

The Petzel Myo series is stupid and $$. Don't buy it. The Gemini by Black Diamond is cheaper, lighter, longer burn time, one less battery. The Myo is slightly brighter in LED mode, and with similar bulbs, the halogens are equally bright (the gemini come with a less bright one attached, w/the brighter one as a spare). After exhaustive research I claim the tikka to be the best lamp for anything but night climbing/route finding. and the gemini the lamp to bring when you'll be fighting for the bivy/car in the darkness.

Yes it does. The kind of dirt that won't come off. Never mind the climbing partner request, I gotta attend a meeting on thursday goddamnit!

anyone up for a day o' craggin? PM me if interested. I'm not 100% I want to go cuz I gotta guide Baker fri-sun, but I am easily persuaded by peer pressure.

squamish or something.

So my limiting factor for climbing right now is not that I seriously broke my feet 2 months ago. I had both big toenails fall off a while ago and are regrowing. But, they are at the point where they are trying to push up over the fat part of the top of my toe, and are pushing right into my skin on their slow journey outwards. Any suggestions on how to accelerate toenail growth, or ways of lessening the discomfort, or an estimate of how long it's gonna hurt for? I'd say it's a 7 on the 1-10 scale. I can't cut it back, cuz the problem would reoccur later anyways. I tried taping it...nothing. Wearing socks...nothing.

There's only around 6 hours of darkness this time o' year. Surely you can shiver for six hours? Fuck all that crap. Here's the Mike Layton Light and Sleepy Bivy System: A Jacket and Hat You Backback and Backpad The Rope Fatty oily snackies Sleepin' pills Flask of Fav Liquor Pack of Winstons if that doesn't let you sleep or at least keep you entertained, concider one of these items: Deck o' cards Tiny MP3 or Minidsk player Gameboy or 1st few pages of Finnagen's Wake These items weight next to nothing. Your other option in the Mike Layton system is to screw all dat and just stare into darkness and suffer.

S.pillar on Macabre looks cool

Dear Mary K, I am no longer an invalid, nor do I ever joke around. How do 15-28 pitches routes from the car sound? U-drive. Signed, The man of the house

Climbed Ruth Peak today Pretty fly for a white guy hot sake at home! Passed lots of tourons I beat Formaldahead's time How totally gay! -Mike

Thanks for sharing the photos, I've always wanted to do that route. The guidebook should come with a free bag o' sand though.

can I use that photo for my personals ad?

"Sun July 6. I saw you come out of starbucks. You: tight shirt, nippin' out. Hint of a thong. Followed you to work. You like to play solitare before getting started. Followed you home. You make little gerbil noises in your sleep. You forgot to brush your teeth, but you gargled in morning. Me: black trench coat, sunglasses. Would you like to meet for coffee or spanking?"

you mean the "I stalked you" section? Who would reply to those psychos?

Who was the chick totally nippin' out near godzilla w/all the fags yesterday? I have something for her.

so I cut them all down

Then I chipped holds to make it more handicap accessable

It's called a "jumping" cholla, aka teddy bear cholla cactus. someone pushed me over into one as a psych fake push that turned out as a real push. OUCH!

I took a shit on the tree when it hit the ground

Like I'm gonna bother with that b.s.

I was in much pain making other climbers feel good about themselves

My friend trundled the snag at the start of the Becky Route on Liberty Bell, b/c he was said it wasn't safe. I kept my mouth shut and looked the other way. Poor lil' snag. It was fun watching the Cap'n and Sissy cut down the tree on the GNS. I watched from the Parking lot as I changed my oil and recyled it into the river. Fuckin' tree fags.

Who? God

I wonder about the "new" version of the boulders. The sticky dot rubber seems much less sticky and more friable. Also harder to resole. Climbing Mag gave the Montrail D9's the best overall. Anyone tried em? MEC has them, and the boulders. I may have to make the pilgramage (after the 4th of course).