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Everything posted by layton
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I couldn't find any beta on this site so here;s the TR. Aaron and I did it a couple days ago. Nelson start is way too far left, look for the big L.facing corner and start below this. It's a full 60m pitch of fun fun climbing on crimpers, jugs and roofs. The next pitch suxs and traverses far left. The next pitch goes up the easiest way you can find to just below the 5.10 crack on the headwall. Aaron took a little FA variation in a very steep dirty corner to runout face to a root pull. So after the middle funk climb a super awesome easy 5.10is flake then crack to a horrid belay stance (a chevel tree hang). Then climb an overhanging 5.8 roof crack to a steep difficult 5.8 crack to a treed ledge. Awesome. Very sharp rock! Then go up and right up a corner, behind a block, and rope-drag it to the summit. Belay the 2nd over the summit, across a ridge to the rappel which is on a saddle connecting Concord towers unclimbed overhanging smooth E. face. Do a shitty 60m rap pulliing loose blocks onto your rope to a horizontal tree rappel (some downclimbing to rapell). Do 2 shitty raps to the dirt. Highly reccomended as a quick summit bag with three amazingly fun pitches. A lot of everything on a shorter route. Good day in the hills, a must do! ps..Aaron runs it out
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Laura at Casa Que Pasa comped me a free drink last night. I asked her for their cheapest tequilla swill...something along the lines of the bartender wringing her towel into my shot glass. She said that she had something better in mind that is called "Riding the Snake". I almost forgot about my order as I scarfed my Carne Asada, mexicolas, and shots of El Matador until she came by holding a shot glass and grinning. There must be some mistake, I panicked! Before me was a single shot of the nastiest looking quagmire ever poured into a glass. I took a sniff. JESUS CHRIST! What the fuck is in this I demanded. She would not say. Well shit, I thought, it's free! So I drank it. The worst part was realizing that this was now in my body and puking would just make me taste it again. I felt it burning and hating inside my gut, rotting away my stomach lining. I don't remember much afterwards. I think I made little masks out of photos from the Bellingham Weekly and gouged out their eyes. I woke up this morning behind a 7-11 with gummy bears shoved up my nose and $500 worth of fruit cups.
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New Route on Princess Mtn Monarch - Icefield
layton replied to Cpt.Caveman's topic in British Columbia/Canada
I'd be worried that Beckey was dead if I saw him sleeping next to me like that. Nice work boyz! -
Yeah, I guess it is pretty ugly up there. I'm never going back.
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Derektissima, Vienesse TR..A multisport Adventure
layton replied to layton's topic in British Columbia/Canada
anyone got any beta since the route has been reportedly made "safer" by the supposed addition of anchors and fixed gear? -
My big toenail fell off again!
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Gene Pires and I went up for an overnigh. Beautiful area! We did the W.ridge and the S.Face(becky davis 10- var). I was a tad disapointed in the rock quality for 80% of the route. But whatever. 8 goats invaded our camp spot. One dank my urine as I was peeing! Another tried the same while I was crapping, but it got too close (inches) so I nailed it with a rock. The end.
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I'm moving to PDX in october too.
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Toenails finally grew out. Took long enough! Lidocane didn't work, in fact it didn't even numb it a little. The only thing that worked was putting tincture of Benzione on it, a couple small cotton balls, and wrapping it in tape to spread the load. Bottom line: don't fuck w/it cuz if you break off the tip, you gotta wait even longer(which i didn't do thank god).
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What's his name and guide co? Come on, tell us.
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drimeclime windshirt rules in the summer b/c: just enough insulation/wind resistance at the belay to keep warm. don't have to take 2 separate layers on and off, just one. in the winter: as your outer hiking layer, inner microclimate layer. it sux b/c: it is expensive, the wrists are way too small, the zipper catches, and shred the fuck out of any hangnails or lil skin flappers you probably have.
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Props to Colin I've been using it for 2 years now. Not only has my lil Fox sent pins in straight and true, it has gotten me up some super sketch approach ice that turned out to be way steeper than planned, and gardened out the thinnest of cracks. The pick is really nice and strong and has kept very sharp still, and the hammer really packs a punch for being so light. and you can shove it up your partners ass without him or her being too sore in the morning given the ether hangover.
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Derektissima, Vienesse TR..A multisport Adventure
layton replied to layton's topic in British Columbia/Canada
Nursery pass approach Actually Dru, my stats are: Chehalis (3.0) Direktissma x2, Bardean x1 Layton (0.14) 7 pitches on Direktissima -
Derektissima, Vienesse TR..A multisport Adventure
layton replied to layton's topic in British Columbia/Canada
Boy Howdy, and how! Heard the flavelle-howe blows. How was Clarke? Worth the mega approach/descent? TNF direct supposedly had fixed gear and anchors added but I call b.s. Look unbelievably run-out at the slabby part above the 1st buttres/snowpatch. All I really wanted to do was the 1000' of 5.6/7 summit slabs! -
Is the ballz. Lightweight childrens ice tool w/hammer. Superlight ice tool, alpine pin hammer , crack cleaner.
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Why don't softshells have pitzips?
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Summary: PAIN 137 waterbars -1 muffler mtn bike pushing mtn bike 8 different type of movement (4wd, hiking, biking, bikepushing, riverwalking, rockclimbing, cramponing, rappelling) blazing sun...thunderheads hiking in river w/sandals for over an hour in 32 deg water. Hear the squeaking of my achilles tendon avulsing Vietnam mossy waterfall gully raging torrent junglegrab Mudglacier crossing in sandals Giant loosest talus ever Valley traverse Death slabs galore Dirt stemming Rurp praying WFT, hard 5.10x on guidebook 5.7 terrain = Give up Raps off horns and other fun things Reverse hallucinitory descent 137 waterbars out MUCH TEQUILLA Guidebook burning
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Anus-bleeder!
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ATC and a Gi-Gi
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fine! It may be a while, though
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he can go to HELLLLLLLLLLLLL