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layton

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Everything posted by layton

  1. layton

    PDX Kegger

    i won't check your i.d.
  2. layton

    PDX Kegger

    what time is this happening?
  3. I have had similar experience with Aliens freezing up on cold snowy climbs, while my other cams were fine. if you must bring them on these type of routes, i'd keep em in your pockets until your lead. besides that, i'd rather use an alien over a tcu.
  4. layton

    State Of The Union

    Was Bush really wearing his flight jacket?
  5. layton

    Erik is...

    getting married AND living in Salt Lake City. and I though he was a cool guy?!
  6. Nick, don't you want a yellow alien also?
  7. yeah, but just bring a styrofoam cup and some string to call the police
  8. What's the deadline for routes? I didn't get a chance last summer, and I have some good routes planned in june.
  9. I think it's off HWY 7 just past the Quixwex7halep turn off.
  10. swain blows, but it's the most comprehensive. Go w/supertopos if the routes they list look like you want to do them. the urosite guide is a good supplement, but very dated, and their new guide is for folks who've done everything.
  11. I'm above the law
  12. Gosh did this weekend suck. It sucked so much! I hope skyclimb and wallstein (who I climbed with sat/sun) don't chew off their tongues on Monday so they bleed to death rather than climb another AWFUL day at smiffy. Boy do I wish I didn't go, and I'm soo glad to be back. Damn it was cold. and cloudy too. super crowded also. Never go to smiff (unless you are a hot chick w/prana top and bottoms or the like).
  13. layton

    PDX Kegger

    sweet
  14. I did it but spent months in a wheelchair soon afterwards so my body went back to it's ravaged state. My rolfer wasn't aggressive enough. I'd go with polish bob's rec.
  15. layton

    weekend plans?

    smif
  16. I SERIOUSLY hope he was doing it backwards for the ironic twist and wasn't actually serious. this is boulder, however...
  17. I'd get a 75m single line if it was lighter than a 9.4 I learned my lesson the 1st time i used a 70m and only brought 60m worth of gear. now I'll bring an extra alien, junior, #1 camalot, and few extra med nuts. Some people are slowed down by extra weight, but I am slowed down by fiddling for pro and belay changeovers. I climb just as fast and technically with a pack on, but thats cuz I don't lead very hard yet. 60m ropes are fine 80% of the time, of course. I won't climb w/a 50m rope since 60m has been the standard for a while and many routes have been put up with a 60m or older routes have had new anchor stations put in w/60m in mind. On a side note. Someone should invent a belay device that measures how much rope has gone through (like the rope measurer on the cord cutters in gear shops). Wouldn't that kick ass!
  18. on rock, you need 70m worth of gear, on ice maybe, maybe one extra scew so it seems really good for ice. 60m...70m rope management sucks just the same. It pretty much makes it feasable to TR, or link 35m or under pitches which there are a lot. you got 10m extra. It's really nice to have more leeway as to how far you can climb and where you can put your belays. I own a 70m 9.4 and use friends 70m 9.1's. I think it greatly improve speed in the alpine rock/ice and the ice, ESPECIALLY routes where there are no obvious belay spots whether the route be very ledgy, or super steep. It comes in handy on those "last" short pitches too cuz you can skip em. I've climbed on many routes where it's come in very hands. Polar circus is a good example with the 65m curtains near the top. On raps, if there are lots of anchor stations, or on a desccent with no stations, you get less raps w/one rope too.
  19. It's alway nice to be ahead of the game, that's why I LOVE 70m ropes. Ice climbing especially. It'll come in VERY handy on Whorehouse Hoses, I can assure you of that at least.
  20. thank fer da photos of da sista. what's the deal w/strawberries?
  21. gummy bears, fish, peaches, whales, etc...are good and fun too. sesame taste lingers in my gut and I have sesame burps later, so I can't eat it. Fastbreak candy bars kick ass. Bring some decent food with some quick eats like energy bars for ez eating. Zone bars are very yummy (stawberry yogurt is my fav). Dipped Luna bars kick ass too. I almost puke thinking about power bars and cliff bars now. Get that instant oatmeal gag relfex going. Horsecock is key. string cheese is good. Once I ate an entire tube of almond paste (marzipan) on a climb. it did pretty good.
  22. Thank you!
  23. anyone have photos of routes like the sisters ice, stawberry whatever, random "alpine" climbs, I-rock, black spider, all dat shit you mentioned, etc...? photos help one get off one's ass.
  24. naysayers... ..NAY! Don't go, it'll suck.
  25. waitresses
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