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Everything posted by layton
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Unemployed Portland ice fanatic needs partner
layton replied to markus_twighticus's topic in Climbing Partners
Thanks for the vote MisterE, but I'm only 26(I'll be 27 soon). Gotta wait 3 more years for Biggus Dickus, er...sorry, Marcus Twatus...sorry, Twightus. -
I am smart enouf to wrok at WALLMart. hooooray
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I drove by yesterday and it wasn't too formed up to be good. Anyone know how it is now. I'm stuck at school. I may have no school tomorrow due to weather, but if not I'll probably do a midnight climb. Bottom line is I can't check it out in daylight today so I'd really appreciate the info, (or a PM if you don't want it swarmed). thanks!
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I'd have the AAJ library in Golden do your research and write it off as a business expense. They seem to have reasonable rates. So when are you gonna come up and climb some big ol cascade rock routes? I think this website needs to be expanded for total U.S. climbing "beta" and "spray". There really is no other climbing website quite like this one! All others are so damn boring. Maybe world domination some day. P.S. Chris, I know we make lots and lots of fun at the supertopos, but I know we also have all used em too. Have you ever though about adding ice routes. You could make lots of $$ cuz they would need to be changed every year, "2003's screw hole is now 5" lower than last years." Or super topos on walk up routes like Shasta or Mt. Baker.
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That looks a lot like NE Portland
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wherez doze frum?
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Gorge Ice: Dick, Squat, Jack, and Shit are formed. Tooo warm.
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Red Rocks: Olive Oil, Epinephrine, Solar Slab
layton replied to colt45's topic in The rest of the US and International.
sorry, I got confused. you're from seattle. never mind most of what I said. -
Red Rocks: Olive Oil, Epinephrine, Solar Slab
layton replied to colt45's topic in The rest of the US and International.
Go do the Resolution arete and you should be fine on any long route in the cascades within your lead ability. Slesse offers enough options to make it very moderate. Go buy some guidebooks for the PNW (selected climbs, red beckey guide, waddington guide, bugaboo guide, SW BC alpine select, squamish, etc) and look at the pictures. Whatever looks cool, go do that one. A good route to me or anyone is crowded and crap to another. I go off aesthetics and guide book propaganda. PS. to get to chicken lips from Black Orpheus. You head left and do some scrambling . I think we did one rappell also to like em. If just doing chicken lips, do not approach from eagle wall like swain suggests. head up the black orpheus descent instead. Black O. goes so fast it should be illegeal to call it a grade IV. Have fun and say hi to Mark Limage and Gary Savage if ya know em. If you know Gary, give his dog a kick for me too. -
Here are a few of the better pics I shot this trip. Borgeau Left: Borgeau Right: Howse Peak: Creepy weeping wall omen:
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fat WI0 conditions. Took me 8 hours from Bellingham to PDX (plus 4 from Lillooet to B'ham). I was pissed to see it so warm in PDX compared to our more dignified northern cities. Other Shit: Something on HWY 12 outta lillooet. Hope-not much. maybe soon (real soon) Bellingham: If I lived in bellingham I would get my tools out tomorrow am and run around like a goon and climb stuff like the waterfalls in the Chuckanuts, or the waterfall in the Lake Samish park. I bet shit is in that's never ever in. PDX: I'm gonna go scope shit out in PDX tomorrow but I am totally wasted tired so I don't think I'll call anyone to climb (but I'll grab a rope and a pair of tools anyway). I'm not familiar with the mountains around here to thrash around rainier and hood in search of ice in one day, plus theres a lot of snow. Speaking of snow I hope that skiier didn't die in alpental. Canadian Rockies: Wish I lived there. Wouldn't care how fucking cold it got in the Cascades. Anyway I spend around 3 weeks up there and lots of stuff is in. If you wanna climb it, it's probably in unless it's an early season one that's destroyed by chinooks. Ghost is drivable and super fat now. 'specially the Beowolf area. Don't know about avy anymore. I was great, but any new snow since last week would be bad. I'm guessing it snowed. Lilooeet: Just go back from an american attack on Lillooeette. I think we won. Lots of sheep shagging and clownpucnching. Polish Bob and I TR'd the shit outta Carl's Berg. The old standby's are in, but the one's you haven't seen in...aren't. D'arcy valley - Pemberton isn't in at all. I'll let the gang do up a better tr from this weekend up there. There were a Fuckload of Cc.comer's there that's for sure and we all drank a lot of beer and some ice WAS climbed. A big to all the new and old faces up there. and a big to all the clownpuchers who were to chickenshit to keep their Polish Bob artwork permenantly attached to their rear windshields. MrE will undoubtedly post a photo of one of his fine works in a couple days. That's all the ice that's fit to print. Back to school for me.
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Does that mean Drury falls is in (and don't give me that it doesn't need to be in to be in shit)?
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Red Rocks: Olive Oil, Epinephrine, Solar Slab
layton replied to colt45's topic in The rest of the US and International.
Black Orpheus to Chicken Lips is a much better link up and probably faster too (plus more pitches and harder with real life cracks!). -
Thanks for the photos chris! Just out of curiousity, what made you post at TR on a PNW website? Has cc.com fame spread down south! Hope you appreciate our misunderstood sense of humor around here.
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Agreed. It'll take more than a few plates of the "special" if we're gonna knock that shit down and trash the motel.
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you gonna be in bellingham tomorrow night (NYE)???
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Yippy! Necro never called me back so he's gonna be pissed when he finds out about this schindig.
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I was thinking about I-rock on Hood, or NY gully which seem more climbable in poor coditions than most alpine routes.
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I'll bring my gear up to B'ham if I decide to go to Littlewet. However, the offer for pain and suffering is still open for those who want to at least drag their shit to the base of a mountain.
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Maybe....? Still, I'd rather do some alpine. You gonna be at the Mile-O? What nights?
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I'm available for something alpine (Oregon or N.Cascades) or some ice hunting the evening of the 1st to the 4th. Temps looks good, snowfall doesn't.
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yeah, miss dat place
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I'm gonna be at the gym around 4pm tonight too
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a bunch of ice formed up on goat and lots of other mountains during that November cold snap. The routes were like 3 pitches of wi3 w/some 4. Basically you gotta wait for a pre-snow cold snap (unless you are lucky) so when that happens, anything with water will be an ice climb.