Jason_Martin

Didn't mean to put anybody down by saying it had been climbed before. When we do a second edition -- some time from now yet -- we will certainly include the climb. I think everyone appreciates posts on ice climbs no matter where the climbs are. Jason

Bill climbed everything back there at one point or another, but he had a tendancy to only give me beta for the Washington Ice book on things that he thought were significant. Jason

It's certainly been climbed before. There have been a lot of ascents around the icicle buttress but little beta was available when we were working on the book... Jason

Single pitch tends to be bolted on the West Side of Washington: Tool Shed at Mount Baker Ski Area Rap Wall at Snoqualmie Pass Black Ice Crag Drytooling Area Near N. Bend CYA - Same area as last Lots of bolted mixed action happening over near Mazama these days too. To place gear on mixed terrain on the west side, you're going to have to climb mountains. Jason

I think the Mountaineers often get a bad rap because of a few bad apples. Often the bad apples aren't doing anything that is really that disturbing technically, but instead are rude to parties outside their circle. I think this has led to more Mountaineers bashing than anything else. I truly believe that this has been happening less and less over the last few years. Ten years ago it seemed that I encountered rudeness from Mountaineers leaders on a regular basis. Hardly at all these days. The question is, why were they rude? I do think that sometimes people have been put in leadership positions in climbing clubs before they were ready. As such, they may have felt a little more defensive about their techniques. This may have led to rudeness in the past. Are people still being put in leadership positions before they are ready? Maybe. But maybe not as often as before... People on this website have been very down on the skills of Mountaineers leaders. I have to wonder what level of skills they expect these leaders to have... Mountaineers leaders are not professional climbing guides...but neither is the guy who brings out his girlfriend for the first time, or the college student who brings out his buddies. Are these individuals proficient enough to take on this responsibility? It's likely that the Mountaineers leader has a more rounded experience than many of those who are doing this. I have seen some seriously dangerous things going on in the mountains from those who "taught themselves." Things that were not mildly bad, but indeed things that were extremely dangerous in that exact moment. Climbing clubs often provide a nice groundwork for individuals to start from. Teaching techniques and climbing club politics aside, this groundwork -- wherever you get it -- is necessary for a safe introduction into a dangerous sport. Most Mountaineers club leaders are bringing people up easy peaks. Are they doing it in the most proficient and modern way? Maybe not, but neither are a large portion of those complaining about them. Mountaineers become an easy target because they are a visible climbing club in the Northwest. Some arrogant yahoo on the Beckey Route carrying a big wall rack and caterpilliaring 6 people up the climb on different ropes doesn't get nailed. But the guy on his first multi-pitch climb as a Mountaineers Leader does because of his affiliation...even if the Mountaineers Leader was totally cool and allowed faster parties to pass. So here's yet another reason people get upset with beginner level climbers whether they are in a club or not...if the party behind you is faster, let them pass! Don't get pissy about it. In the real world, everyone gets passed sooner or later. When all is said and done, the Mountaineers is a good club that has introduced countless people to the mountains. For the most part these individuals got the groundwork they needed to go out and have a good time. It's hard for me to find fault in that... Jason

Regardless of the recent accident, you should use your harness the way it was designed to be used. When you make modifications, like clipping biners through your tie-in point, you create new risks. The manufacturers suggested use of climbing gear is the way the gear should be used. Old gear is dangerous. I think the point is apt. Had the rope broken because it was old and worn out, nobody would be saying that we shouldn't use ropes. If an old sling broke, nobody would say we shouldn't be using slings. If a old biner broke, nobody would be saying we shouldn't use biners...the point is to pay attention to the life-span of your gear, not to start using things in ways they weren't meant to be used. Jason

The problem with sponsorship is that it doesn't really pay the bills. There are a lot of sponsored climbers...Wayne could probably become one with his resume over the last few years. The problem is that most sponsored climbers don't make much money. Most get some gear here and there and maybe some support on expeditions. We all know the sponsored athletes who make a bit more. Steve House, Tommy Caldwell and Beth Rodden, Ed Viesters...the A list of climbing. Jason

I guided professionally for several years...I never asked for, expected or accepted monetary tips. I considered myself a professional, I wasn't working for minimum wage (although the money wasn't great), and I wouldn't tip my physician, professor or dentist either. The closest I'd come to a tip was accepting invitations to dinner and beers after the work was completed with satisfaction. I've been guiding professionally for seven years and have guided year round since 2002. The cultural norm is that guides do expect tips. This is because they are tipped in every venue where guides exist, whether they are a fishing guide, a hunting guide or a mountain guide...tipping is the norm. I do believe that Raindawg didn't accept tips and that's his perogative. But I also expect that he wasn't trying to pay his mortgage on a guides wage. I don't know any mountain guides who won't accept a tip. Jason

These are pretty good boots. I wore them in Bolivia in July and found them to be a bit on the chilly side, but climbed in them in the Cascades in late August and September and found them to be very comfortable. Jason

The problem with this question is that it neglects the reason most people fall into crevasses in the Cascades. Very few serious crevasse falls (falls where one goes in over his or her head) in the Cascades result from a snow bridge collapsing. Instead, the vast majority of serious falls in the Cascades take place because individuals slip above the crevasse and slide in. Years of "Accidents in North American Mountaineering" support this assertation in the Cascades. Though I don't have dates in front of me to show the months where most of the crevasse falls have taken place, it is still likely that such falls which start as a slip are most common when the glaciers are the most icy. This means that August and September are probably somewhat dangerous months. Jason

In the early morning the "normal" sport climbing areas at the pull-outs will be cool. But they will come into the sun at around ten. There are a number of walls that are in the shade for all or most of the day. Check out Angel Food Wall, Willow Creek Canyon, the south side of Ice Box Canyon, Dark Shadows area, Community Pillar/Magic Triangle Area, Rainbow Wall and Crimson Chrysalis, Lotta Balls area, Black Velvet Canyon, and Global Peak. In the afternoon, you can sport climb in Calico Basin. The season starts in Red Rock in October, so September is usually really not that bad. You may need a couple of days to acclimate to the heat, but most people are able to do it. Jason

The Cascades really have two distinct seasons for ice. The first is the winter/spring season where the routes are primarily melt fed water ice climbs and the second is the spring/summer season where the climbs are primarily steepish glacier ice and snow. It appears that the original poster is more interested in the latter type of climbing. Though often thought of as may and june climbs, both the North Ridge of Mount Baker and the Coleman Headwall are climbed through late september. However, expect harder conditions than predicted in the guidebooks. Other options not mentioned are the North Face of Mount Shuksan, the North Ridge of Forbidden as described in the Cascade Select guidebook, and Mount Buckner(if you can get across the shrund). If you dig carefully through Beckey guides you will find a number of lesser known small glaciated peaks throughout the range that have steepish routes on them that can be done later in the season. Spring and summer alpine ice in the cascades tend to be best before the glaciers open up too much and all the snow melts. Some of the approaches become quite difficult and as stated earlier, some of the climbs become more difficult and dangerous as well. Jason

Glacier Viewpoint is actually above the camp. To reach the camp, you must walk down from Glacier Viewpoint on the moraine to the flat heavily forested area. The official name of the area is Harrison Camp, not Camp Harris. The camp has been used by local guide services for years. The guides dubbed it Mirkwood in honor of the dark mossy nature of the camp. Tolkien was probably popular when they first started visiting the camp some years ago. Jason

I´m currently in Huaraz and I did the Normal Route on Tocllaraju yesterday. One interesting thing is that the Ishinca Valley is full of flies. A local guide told me that there were no flies until about three years ago. This is probably the result of global warming... Jason

The ice caves are nowhere near as good as baker. In addition to that, I belive that they can be a little dangerous... Jason

I grew up two houses away from the two women who were murdered. They have been family friends since I was 13. This is an utterly terrible loss...there really is nothing more senseless than taking a person´s life... Jason

The lower Coleman Glacier on Mount Baker is an excellent place to ice climb during the summer months. The approach is short and there is a lot to choose from. See the Washington Ice Guide for approach directions. Jason

Global Warming is Bad... I'm currently in Bolivia but haven't been here for a couple years. The bottom of the glacier in the condoriri region has melted back twenty to thirty feet in two years. Numerous routes have changed significantly or don't exist anymore. Some have become more difficult, while others especially waterfall routes don't seem to come in as often anymore. If you want to climb in South America, do it soon. I don't think the highest mountains will ever totally melt out, but the route selections are going to diminish a lot in the next ten to twenty years... Jason

Mornings are still cold with firm conditions. An ice axe would be nice. Jason

I had the very same experience there. And honestly, it's the main reason I haven't gone back there to climb again. Jason

I climbed the yellow line on Pequena Alpamyo, but we didn't traverse right. Instead we went straight up. The line traversing to the right was primarily composed of ice that was semi-detached from the rock and kind of scary. I'd agree with Dalius, Bolivia is super fun and not very crowded. I'm going back next month! Jason

There is a trick that may be useful when rappelling a popular route. Recently a tech tip in Climbing magazine dubbed this technique "saddlebags" for lack of a better term. The idea is to thread the rope (or ropes) and then to butterfly coil the remainder of the rope. After you are finished coiling, clip it through a sling to your harness. I often lay the rope in the center of the sling and then clip one biner to my harness and then clip the other biner to the biner that is already clipped. If you do this correctly, the rope will feed out of the sling through your rappel device. You will not have to throw the rope down the cliff at all. This is an especially good technique when it is difficult to hear or see parties below you. Jason

The Cosley-Houston route on Colfax Peak is in! Get it while it's hot...or cold as it may be! Jason

The line Gene and I attempted was the red line in the center of your topo. We really only climbed a pitch because at the time the ice was absolutely terrible. I'm psyched to hear that so many people are getting after that peak. It really is a little hidden gem. Jason

This system works very well...however, I've found that butterfly knots work much better than overhand knots. If you practice your crevasse rescue techniques, passing the knot through the system is not that big a deal. Where there is a problem sometimes is in the knot cutting deeply into the lip of the crevasse. Sometimes the knot entrenches itself so deeply that it is incredibly difficult to pull out of the lip. I've created a 9 to 1 and even a 12 to 1 pulley system to fix this. On a two man team, I usually put a few knots in the rope between myself and my partner. I'd rather have to deal with the problems that the knots cause following a crevasse fall than the problems caused by being at the bottom of a crevasse. Jason