Jason_Martin

Sam - I pretty much have everything. Send me an email to remind me and I can send you some stuff.

Thanks, guys!

Hey folks, Just wanted to let you know that our gear shop has set up a couple of deals for those who want to take AIARE Avalanche Level I programs this year. If you book your Level I course ASAP, you can get two additional benefits: 1) A ski or splitboard rental package for free. 2) 25% off a purchase of avalanche equipment (beacon, shovel, probe). This is a limited time opportunity. Interested folks must book their course before the end of December to cash in on these two additional offers. Avy Level I information: https://www.alpineinstitute.com/.../avalanche-training.../ The Equipment Shop at the American Alpine Institute Information (rentals and avalanche equipment): https://shop.alpineinstitute.com/ Let me know if anyone has any questions!

I can state that -- as far as I know -- it wasn't an Alpine Institute guide that put in the bolts. It would certainly be unnecessary to place bolts there for a skilled guide. As far as bolting in wilderness in Washington, that is still allowed as long as you use a hand drill. It is not allowed in North Cascades National Park. Jason

Folks, The American Alpine Institute is current seeking an individual interested in an entry-level program coordination position at the American Alpine Institute in Bellingham. This is primarily a clerical position where the staff member will answer the phone, answer emails, process program registrations and send invoices for programs in the Pacific Northwest. As an entry-level position at our offices in Bellingham, there are opportunities for advancement both in wage and in position within the organization. Additionally, a part of the compensation package includes the ability to participate in AAI programs for free. The closing date for this position is January 15th. To learn more about this opportunity, click below: https://www.alpineinstitute.com/media/1062358/2022-program-coordinator-v2.pdf

I'd recommend putting this up on the Bellingham Climbers Facebook group.

I'm extremely familiar with the FS and its relationship with the ski area. Essentially, the area is leased. So the ski area has the right to close areas. If you walk around and go through a closed area, it's no different than if you were on skis and enter a closed area. The ski area can legally "trespass" you off the resort and not allow you back into the area, for skiing or climbing, for a period of time. Additionally, it's possible for them to collect a fine. I'm not sure how that works though. Nothing has been revised. This is how it is. They're rules about the ice climb are no different than an uphill policy for backcountry skiers. Indeed, the ski area also has the right to close the falls to climbing completely if they want to. So it's best for us to all comply with their rules about walking around to TR the route.

Pan Dome is still pretty thin. Getting there though. The resort now requires that you lead the route. They consider it trespassing if you walk around to the top to set-up a toprope...

I feel like the complete north ridge of Stuart is easier due to the lack of sketchiness. Jburg is just a sketchier adventure than a lot of things in the Cascades.

Does anyone have any info on this? The bulk of the article is beyond the paywall. https://www.wenatcheeworld.com/news/2017/may/30/wwu-student-dies-in-fall-from-goat-wall/

The American Alpine Institute will be celebrating International Mountain Day with pay-what-you-can (but you don't have to pay) rock rescue and avalanche awareness seminars on January 10th in Bellingham. The Rock Rescue Seminars will take place at Vital Climbing Gym at 12:30pm and 3pm. Then in the evening we will have pizza, beer, live music, a raffle, an auction, and finally an Avalanche Awareness seminar, all at Vital. All profits from this event will benefit the Friends of the Northwest Weather and Avalanche Center. To read more about the event, please check out: http://www.alpineinstitute.com/misc/imd/benefit-events-for-the-northwest-weather-and-avalanche-center/ If you have any questions, please call 360-671-1505 or email me at jason(at)alpineinstitute.com. Jason

The American Alpine Institute is currently seeking an individual who is fluent in American Sign Language to interperpret on a basic mountaineering trip for a deaf climber. The ideal candidate will have a strong glacier mountaineering background. If an individual doesn't have a strong mountianeering background, but has a good rock or ice climbing background, we may be able to train the applicant on one of our other courses prior to the ascent with the deaf person. This is a paid position. To learn more, please contact Jason Martin at jason@alpineinstitute.com or at 360-671-1505. Jason

The American Alpine Institute is running an American Mountain Guides Association Single Pitch Instructor Exam on Tuesday, July 29th at Mt. Erie near Anacortes. We are currently seeking individuals who would like to play the role of student for the exam candidates on: TUESDAY, JULY 29TH We are primarily interested in climbers who haven't spent a great deal of time outdoors. The exam candidates will provide a day's worth of climbing instruction to those who are interested under the supervision of an AMGA Certified Rock Guide for FREE. Mock students will work with the guides from approximately 9am to 4pm. If you need to leave early, that's certainly fine. The ideal "mock client" will have rock shoes, a helmet and a harness, though if you don't have one of these things, we may be able to provide it. The American Mountain Guides Association (AMGA) Single Pitch Instructor Course and exam is the first in the AMGA sequence of climbing instructor and guide training programs. The SPI course was designed to help capable recreational climbers transition into capable and effective climbing instructors. The course focuses on the technical skills required by an instructor as they are applied in all forms of single pitch climbing instruction. In addition to this, the course addresses the essential educational and environmental tenets required to teach climbing. Those seeking certification may go on to take a two-day field examination following the course. Certified Single Pitch Instructors are expected to demonstrate the technical and educational proficiencies necessary to instruct a variety of single pitch rock climbing skills in a safe and effective manner to both groups and individuals. To read more about the AMGA Single Pitch Instructor course and exam, please click on the following link: http://www.alpineinstitute.com/catalog/amga-single-pitch-instructor-course-and-exam/ If you would like to participate in this guide assessment as a mock student and to obtain some free training, please call AAI between 9am and 5:30pm at 360-671-1505 on a weekday or email info@alpineinstitute.com. Thanks, Jason Martin

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The technique commonly taught by American Guides is the PBUS technique. It's becoming a lot less common to see people teaching climbers to belay like what's shown in the video anymore... J

The American Alpine Institute is seeking an individual for an entry-level administrative position that will evolve into a program coordinator position after six months. This is a year-round full-time administrative position at one of America’s leading mountain climbing schools and international guide services. Duties: -Process client registrations and oversee payment schedules. -Coordinate programs with clients via email, phone, and Skype. -Assist in the management of programs in California, Nevada, Utah, Colorado, France, Switzerland, Bolivia, Ecuador, Peru and Chile. -After six months, take over the management of programs in California, Nevada, Utah, Colorado, France, Switzerland, Bolivia, Ecuador, Peru and Chile. -Assist in the upkeep of the Institute website and social networking outlets. -Participate as one member of a dynamic team in strategic and operation planning and in the design and completion of special projects. Requirements: -Knowledge of climbing and mountaineering. -Abilities to write and speak articulately, creatively and effectively. -Ability to use email, Word, and Excel. -Outdoor roped climbing experience is required. -An ability to work with a high level of energy, commitment and responsibility. -Knowledge of climbing in the program areas to be administered is helpful, but not required. Location: Bellingham, Washington – A beautiful and environmentally conscious town ranked #1 in the United States by Outside magazine for quality of life in community with exceptional opportunities for national caliber outdoor sports. (climbing, mountaineering, sea kayaking, mountain biking, trail running, etc.) Compensation: $22,000 to $29,000 (DOE). Vacation pay, holiday pay, and health insurance benefits increase with time. Note: This is not an instructional or guiding job. This is an administrative position. We will accept applications through February 3rd. For a prospectus and application, please visit: www.alpineinstitute.com/about-us/employment/ Please feel free to contact Jason Martin at 360-671-1505 or jason@alpineinstitute.com with any questions. www.alpineinstitute.com

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The American Alpine Institute will be celebrating International Mountain Day with pay-what-you-can (but you don't have to pay) rock rescue and avalanche awareness seminars on December 14th in Everett. The Rock Rescue Seminars will take place at the Everett Vertical World at 12:30pm and 3pm. Then in the evening we will have pizza, beer, live music, a raffle, an auction, and finally an Avalanche Awareness seminar, also at the Vertical World. All profits from this event (and a sister event a week earlier in Bellingham) will benefit the Friends of the Northwest Weather and Avalanche Center. To read more about the event, please check out: http://www.alpineinstitute.com/misc/imd/benefit-events-for-the-northwest-weather-and-avalanche-center/ If you have any questions, please call 360-671-1505 or email me at jason(at)alpineinstitute.com. Jason

The American Alpine Institute will be celebrating International Mountain Day with pay-what-you-can (but you don't have to pay) rock rescue and avalanche awareness seminars on December 7th in Bellingham. The Rock Rescue Seminars will take place at Vital Climbing Gym at 12:30pm and 3pm. Then in the evening we will have pizza, beer, live music, a raffle, an auction, and finally an Avalanche Awareness seminar, all at Vital. All profits from this event (and a sister event a week later in Everett) will benefit the Friends of the Northwest Weather and Avalanche Center. To read more about the event, please check out: http://www.alpineinstitute.com/misc/imd/benefit-events-for-the-northwest-weather-and-avalanche-center/ If you have any questions, please call 360-671-1505 or email me at jason(at)alpineinstitute.com. Jason

The American Alpine Institute is running an American Mountain Guides Association Single Pitch Instructor Exam on Thursday, October 10th at Mount Erie, near Anacortes. We are currently seeking individuals who would like to play the role of student for the exam candidates on: THURSDAY, OCTOBER 10, 2013 We are primarily interested in climbers who haven't spent a great deal of time outdoors. The exam candidates will provide a day's worth of climbing instruction to those who are interested under the supervision of an AMGA Certified Rock Guide for FREE. Mock students will work with the guides from approximately 9am to 4pm. If you need to leave early, that's certainly fine. The ideal "mock client" will have rock shoes, a helmet and a harness, though if you don't have one of these things, we may be able to provide it. The American Mountain Guides Association (AMGA) Single Pitch Instructor Course and exam is the first in the AMGA sequence of climbing instructor and guide training programs. The SPI course was designed to help capable recreational climbers transition into capable and effective climbing instructors. The course focuses on the technical skills required by an instructor as they are applied in all forms of single pitch climbing instruction. In addition to this, the course addresses the essential educational and environmental tenets required to teach climbing. Those seeking certification may go on to take a two-day field examination following the course. Certified Single Pitch Instructors are expected to demonstrate the technical and educational proficiencies necessary to instruct a variety of single pitch rock climbing skills in a safe and effective manner to both groups and individuals. To read more about the AMGA Single Pitch Instructor course and exam, please click on the following link: http://www.alpineinstitute.com/catalog/amga-single-pitch-instructor-course-and-exam/ If you would like to participate in this guide assessment as a mock student and to obtain some free training, please call AAI between 9am and 5:30pm at 360-671-1505 on a weekday. Thanks, Jason

Alaska Range Programs and Expedition Coordinator Duties: --Coordinate the Alaska programs and oversees client bookings for AAI’s eight Denali expeditions and a variety of Alaska Range Mountaineering trips. --Assist in the management of programs in the Cascades, the Sierra and in Colorado. --Advise AAI’s executive director on Alaska mountaineering programs, risk management, and human resource issues. --Participate as one member of an executive team in the hiring and training of staff, in strategic and operational planning, and in the design and completion of special projects. --Option #1 – If an applicant has a guiding background and a strong motivation to continue working as a guide after each Alaska season; this position can be combined with guide work during the summer season. The person in this position will also work one Alaska program per season, most likely a Denali expedition. --Option # 2 – If an applicant doesn’t have the requisite guiding or climbing experience to work as a guide, then the applicant will combine Alaska Range coordination with foreign programs coordination. Requirements: --Abilities to write and speak articulately, creatively, and effectively --An ability to work with a high level of energy, commitment, and responsibility --Alaska Range Guiding experience (or personal Alaska climbing experience) – This is preferred experience, but we will review the applications of active mountaineers with a strong interest in Alaska. Location: Bellingham, Washington, a beautiful and environmentally conscious town ranked #1 in the US by Outside magazine for quality of life in a community with exceptional opportunities for national caliber outdoor sports (cragging, alpine rock, glacier climbing, sea kayaking, mountain biking, trail running, river running). Compensation: $32,000 to $40,000 (DOE – especially guide experience). Vacation pay, holiday pay, and health insurance benefits increase with time. Guiding wage is determined separately and is based on experience. Starting Date This position will begin in September, the actual starting date is flexible. For a prospectus and application, please visit: http://www.alpineinstitute.com/about-us/employment/ Submit application, résumé, and cover letter to jason@alpineinstitute.com Please feel free to contact Jason Martin at 360-671-1505 or at jason@alpineinstitute.com with any questions. www.alpineinstitute.com

The American Alpine Institute is running an American Mountain Guides Association Single Pitch Instructor Exam on Friday, June 14th in Leavenworth, WA. We are currently seeking individuals who would like to play the role of student for the exam candidates on: FRIDAY, JUNE 14TH We are primarily interested in climbers who haven't spent a great deal of time outdoors. The exam candidates will provide a day's worth of climbing instruction to those who are interested under the supervision of an AMGA Certified Rock Guide for FREE. Mock students will work with the guides from approximately 9am to 4pm. If you need to leave early, that's certainly fine. The ideal "mock client" will have rock shoes, a helmet and a harness, though if you don't have one of these things, we may be able to provide it. The American Mountain Guides Association (AMGA) Single Pitch Instructor Course and exam is the first in the AMGA sequence of climbing instructor and guide training programs. The SPI course was designed to help capable recreational climbers transition into capable and effective climbing instructors. The course focuses on the technical skills required by an instructor as they are applied in all forms of single pitch climbing instruction. In addition to this, the course addresses the essential educational and environmental tenets required to teach climbing. Those seeking certification may go on to take a two-day field examination following the course. Certified Single Pitch Instructors are expected to demonstrate the technical and educational proficiencies necessary to instruct a variety of single pitch rock climbing skills in a safe and effective manner to both groups and individuals. To read more about the AMGA Single Pitch Instructor course and exam, please click on the following link: http://www.alpineinstitute.com/catalog/amga-single-pitch-instructor-course-and-exam/ If you would like to participate in this guide assessment as a mock student and to obtain some free training, please call AAI between 9am and 5:30pm at 360-671-1505 on a weekday. Thanks, Jason