CascadeClimber

Nothing here, either: http://vulcan.wr.usgs.gov/Volcanoes/Cascades/CurrentActivity/current_updates.html It better not blow, I haven't skied it yet! -Loren

Pretty Picture: More info here: http://vulcan.wr.usgs.gov/Volcanoes/Sisters/WestUplift/ground_uplift_may2001.html -Loren [ 10-30-2001: Message edited by: CascadeClimber ]

Climbing: "Postcards from the Ledge", Greg Child. I just love the bit about "The One Who Bivies Highest". "Into the Zone", by Potterfield is pretty good. Also, almost anything by David Roberts. I'm a little ashamed to admit it, but I read almost every Tom Clancy book in a matter of days as soon as they come out. I'm about to reread "The Lord of the Rings" and "Jurassic Park". And I think "Contact" is amazing, much better than the movie. -Loren

There has been a lot of talk about these on several boards (mtncommunity, trailspace, rec.climbing) recently. The best explanation that I have seen for lowering a second is here: http://www.usmga.net/guidelines/guidelinesreverso.htm I like to belay from an overhead anchor on ice; it reduces the load on the anchor by about 50% versus a harness belay redirected through the anchor. -Loren

I climbed waterfall ice all last season in my Dynafit TLT4s (around 60 pitches). I think the boots don't do anything exceptionally, but do everying pretty well. You'll be disappointed if you are looking for high-performance skiing, climbing, or hiking with them, but I think they are a good all-round balance. Biggest plusses on ice: - No cold feet ever with Thermoflex liners - High cuff seems to ease calf fatigue on steep stuff Biggest minuses: - Massive calf pump on low angle stuff (may be just my bad technique) - Fancy footwork just ain't happening- anything that demands ankle flex is out. It would be a good idea to try before you buy. Other than the earlier post, I think that Marmot also rents Rando boots. -Loren

I've been over the pass between Circle and Venus. If you are talking about the ridge that starts there, expect loose, crumbly, jagged rock and significant exposure. You can access the SE ridge from the outlet of Circle by scrambling up slabs and steep heather. A better option, in my opinion. -Loren

I just did. A human answered the phone on the first ring and it took all of 10 seconds. Thanks for the prompt. -Loren

Yes to all. I wore my rock shoes, but I am not a great rock climber. The first half is pretty moderate and juggy. The slab section is fun and also moderate, but pretty runout. It is harder in the corner where there is a bit of pro, and easier in the middle, where there is no pro. You'll cruise it. Strap on the nitro! ;-) -Loren

It was a long way to haul crampons to wear for only 20 minutes, but the day was cool and overcast and the snow was quite firm. I was glad to be in my Makalus and step-ins. It would have been doable, thought a bit desperate without the points. And yes, it is close to 45 degrees for a bit. YMMV -Loren

Nice job! Thanks for posting the pics. Looks like a great line. -Loren

I haven't been up there this year, but I climbed the North Face last Aug 27. The moat crossing was a non-issue then, partially because of how the base of the route meets the snow. We were able to walk down into the moat and onto the rock. Mellow, and I was glad to have crampons. If it is bad you can traverse into the upper part of the route from near the col via some lovely Beckey 4th class slabs. Cheers- Loren

An image of the upper portion of the route: Lots of fun and adventure for me. Definitely a classic Beckey 4th class route. My full TR here: http://cascadeclimber.com/mt__garfield.htm -Loren [This message has been edited by CascadeClimber (edited 08-20-2001).]

I'm very happy with my Sony DSC-P1. 3.34 megapixels, a 3x optical zoom, and a pretty small form factor, though not as small as the Elph (but the Elph only has a 2x zoom). Downsides: - Frigging expensive Sony memory stick technology. - Hard to tell if pictures are in focus before reviewing on computer. - Damn if that isn't an expensive, fragile thing to haul into the mountains. It isn't the digital camera I would choose if I wasn't taking it climbing, but I couldn't find a better combination of price, size, and features. Here are a couple links that may help: http://www.steves-digicams.com http://www.imaging-resource.com Cameraworld does not have the best prices. And lately they seem to have a bad attitude. I got my Sony from Abe's of Maine. J&R Music also has good prices and service. -CC Oh, yeah, almost forgot. The memory included with the cameras is a joke. In the case of the DSC-P1, the included 8Mb card holds all of 5 images at the highest resolution. If you choose a 3 or 4 megapixel camera, get a 128Mb storage card, at least. [This message has been edited by CascadeClimber (edited 08-15-2001).]

Thank you for sharing, Mr. Ibex. I was one of those "fucking idiot gumbies" and we were decidedly not from the organization I think you were referencing. Still, it is nice to hear your truth. It's too bad you felt such consternation about the crowd, but really, what did you expect mid-day on a sunny Sunday in August on one of the most popular moderate routes in the area? -CC

A herd (gaggle, covey, pack, warren??) of more than 30 mountain goats below the North Ridge of Adams. The spectacular stars and Milky Way from the same place. Watching a pack of wolves cross the foot of the Adams glacier a year later. My first ascent of Rainier in 1995. Went with my Dad, who was climbing to celebrate his 50th birthday. Magical alpenglow before sunrise on the Emmons in 1998. The mountain and the air lit up like a neon sign for 30 fleeting seconds. So many more... -CC

No touchdown, not even a safety. My partner led the rock section (if you can call that crumbly shit rock- and I thought Cascades rock was loose) in his Scarpas and I trembled up on TR in my rando boots: More pics here, near the bottom of the page: http://cascadeclimber.com/lillooet_feb_20-22,_2001.htm -CC [This message has been edited by CascadeClimber (edited 08-09-2001).]

Okay, I can't resist any longer. Here are a few of my recent experiences at REI: - Went in to Seattle store to get a Trango Pyramid. Informed by looking, and confirmed by employee, that they have no belay devices in the store. Yes, none. As in no tubers, no eights, no plates, no nothing. The employee helpfully told me that they had 1,274 in the Sumner warehouse and offered to sell me a Munter hitch. Okay, the Munter part is BS. - Went in to the Redmond store to replace a nut that was left fixed on Silk Degrees (Dru, can you grab that for me?). "Sorry, we don't stock Black Diamond nuts. But we have 2,745 of them in the Sumner warehouse. Would you like a cashew from my lunch instead? Okay, the cashew part is BS. - Went in to the Seattle "Flagship" store to buy a three-layer Goretex jacket. Total selection: Zero. Helpful 16 year-old employee tells me that they have 282 in the Sumner warehouse. Offers to sell me a Hefty Steel sack with neck and arm-holes cut in. Okay, the Hefty part is BS. - Went to the Redmond store to buy a passle of Neutrino biners on sale. Total stock: Zero. Told by salesperson, "Gee, we brought in fifty for the sale. I can't believe we sold them all. Let me look... Yes, we have 1,078 in the Sumner warehouse. Would you like some antimatter for your warp drive instead?" Okay, the antimatter part is BS. - Going through the line in Seattle with a pile of air-dried meals. Clerk asks, "Hey, what is this stuff?" No BS. What more can I say? - I write a letter to REI noting that they seem to have abandoned the people and purpose for which they were founded. Receive a nice note back telling me that they have a "new merchandising plan coming out in the Spring that will address your concerns." That was Spring of 2000. REI: Really Eddiebauer Indisguise -CC

Given some of the characters on writing list, I think the next segment should begin with, "...my demise as a rap-bolter..."

I'd cheerfully take the old Capital Hill store over the crappy new "Ark of Consumerism". What a sad story.

A minor clarification: mtncommunity.org is not my site. I am simply one member of a group of about ten who self-organized to create and administer it. And, for what it is worth, and as I've said before, I agree with MattP. -CC

Thanks. I added some pics to the Ice Cliff TR tonight. More to come... -CC

Marmot is closing out their Arroyo 30 degree down bag from last year for $169. It stuffs into the smallest OR stuff sack and weighs less that my big down jacket. Since I bought it I haven't had my -5 Aguille off the hanger. Also, I agree with using down for short blitzes around here and snythetic for longer trips. If you feel you must go out and do battle with the elements, then go with synthetic. Otherwise get down and spend the rainy days with the fam or at the bar. -CC

Well this isn't exactly climbing related, but after spending well over two hours installing IIS "hotfixes" last weekend (when I could have been climbing) I found this little tool: http://www.microsoft.com/Downloads/Release.asp?ReleaseID=24168 It is pathetic that it even exists, but I guess it is better than getting hacked. But don't worry, I'm sure that security/bugs will not be a problem with the next version of their server OS. -CC

"No pain, no pain." In college I had a poster of a fat guy (complete with the gut hanging over his belt)sitting on a keg and that was the caption. As I get older I'm starting to see the wisdom. -CC

Amen, Rodchester. I'll add that I think Dryloft is a good investment. It adds some warmth, helps protect from those "Oh-shit" spills in the tent, and makes the bag much more friendly during a bivy without tent or bivy sack. -CC