CascadeClimber

Make sure ta eat a pastie and take a sauna while yer der, eh. -Loren another former Michigander

quote: Originally posted by iain: what's with windshield repair places? How can they pay up to $100 off your insurance deductable and give you 25 free dinners to Shari's? Just how badly are they taking you to the cleaners? Call one of those places and ask how much for a windshield. Then ask them how much if you don't have insurance. The difference pays for those dinners and other perks, plus a tidy profit. It's quite a racket.

Washinton should subcontract its state government to Oregon. In the ten years I've lived in Washington, we've spent billions (BILLIONS) on roads and mass transit with very little to show. Sounds Transit has redefined futility and fiscal irresponsibility through unparalleled analysis paralysis. Meanwhile Portland has rebuilt their airport (almost from the ground up), extended their light rail to the new airport, and drilled a light rail tunnel entirely through the west hills to Beaverton. I actually heard a representative of the state of Washington on NPR last week. He was advocating reducing the sales tax and implementing an income tax. His logic: "Oregon has an income tax and they get better value per transportation tax dollar than Washington residents." I can't see how the form of the tax that generate a 'transportation tax dollar' impacts the skill with which it is spent, but I am sure than *any* proposal to tweak taxes will both increase the overall tax burden, and further bloat state government. Taxes are low in Washington. But we pissed away a tax windfall from the dot-com bubble and lost Boeing to boot. Until the state government demonstrates both competence and accountability, I'll never vote for another tax increase. Man, I really need to find some ice to climb. Maybe we could make the ice season longer by sprinking salt on it?? [ 11-25-2002, 11:20 AM: Message edited by: CascadeClimber ]

Water containing dissolved sodium chloride has a lower freezing point than 'plain' water. The idea is to create a wet salt-water layer on the road so that falling snow melts rather than compacting on the road. They add rock salt to make up for the salt-water that runs off into nearby streams and lakes. How much lower the freezing point is depends on how much salt is dissolved in the water. About once every five years in Michigan it would get cold enough to freeze the salt-water on the roads. That made for really great entertainment, as the roads became sheets of ice and there was nothing they could do (they didn't use sand/gravel at all).

<RANT> I've lived 11 years in the Northwest preceded by 23 years in southeast Michigan. Salt does far more damage to cars and roads than sand and gravel. The first two cars I owned rusted through the wheelwells, trunk, and the floorboards in a few years. The salt also eats the roads, causing large and plentiful potholes. The ruts caused by studs are bad, but not as bad as potholes. And salt washes into waterways and causes problems there, too. This is really bad news. And the state government is astonished that voters are pissed off and distrustful. Go figure. Maybe if they hadn't pissed away billions on Sound Transit with almost zero meaningful results, they'd have a few thousand dollars to buy de-icer. </RANT>

Top Five Highlights - Leading the third pitch of Icy BC (in admittedly easy conditions). - New route on Formiddable - Finally climbing Little T (aka Choss-daddy), car-to-car with great skiing. - Lots of ice mileage - Not getting killed, maimed, scared out of my wits, divorced, or going broke. Failures - East Couloir on Cutthroat. - Got completely spanked on a new line that I'd been scoping for a long time. I totally underestimated the "easy" section. I'll be back...

Pub Club at The Reynolds' Bar! True Story: We got back The Reynolds after dinner one night last season and some of the windows were broken out and being boarded up. I asked the woman at the front desk, "So, what happened with the windows?" "Someone at the bar didn't want to leave." And I guess Pub Club-Lillooet would technically be an east-side event, too. ice ice ice ice ice ice ice ice ice ice

Used three seasons. One with hammer, one with adze. Includes two spare bolt shims, one spare bolt, one extra set of beater picks, two allen wrenches, and a spare adze. Leashes not included. $295 plus shipping.

quote: Originally posted by JayB: Anyone else recall what they felt and or any changes in their perception of ice climbing after their first stiff lead? Yep. I perceived that I needed a change of underwear. -Loren

Can you elaborate a bit more? "In" as in climbable with no gear? Which of the pitches? Any news on the stuff up in the Bridge? TIA- Loren

I called and made a lost & found report: Make, model, where they were last seen, etc. Someone down there compares the lost list to the found pile and sends matches to the owner. No charge for shipping, either. Quite a nice little system. -Loren

I seem to have particular problem with poles, which I go through like potato chips. But lately I seem to have lost the time and motivation to climb. If anyone finds my mojo could you please send it back to me? ;-) Loren [ 10-29-2002, 11:51 PM: Message edited by: CascadeClimber ]

Well, exactly one month after my post I come home and find a box on the front step from MRNP. Inside are my missing shoes. I'd sure like to know where they've been... My thanks to whomever turned them in. -Loren

Phair Creek! Phair Creek! Phair Creek! Phair Creek! "Let the powers that be keep the Phair Creek road open. Cause 'A Phairwell to Arms' just looks totally dopin!" Ice! Ice! Can someone sedate me until mid-December, please? -Loren

I've only been up there once- December 23, 1996. Clear, blus skies and plenty warm. But then we were able to park directly across from the 'trail'. I take it that the spur road is now gated or undriveable? -Loren

I suspect some the hazardous enigma value has been mitigated by liberal use of flagging tape and a pair of loppers. Did you solo down the gully or rap? It looked nasty loose to me, but maybe not? -Loren

This is terrible, sad news. My sincerest condolences to family and friends. I live in Issaquah. Please let me know if there is anything that I can do. -Loren

The two Doorish routes are in the updated CAG V1. Three hours to the summit. Damn. That is flat-out hauling ass. Nice job Colin & Co. We took eight hours and didn't dawdle, though we had some route-finding issues. Did you play in the 'dirt gully' or climb the rock to the right? -Loren

On Saturday, September 28, I left a pair of Saloman cross trainers on a rock on the Nisqually moraine, down on the flats below Glacier Vista. When I returned from a day of seracing, someone had apparently 'accidentally' picked them up and walked off with them. It put a sour note on an otherwise fun day. If you are reading this, and have my shoes, I'd appreciate getting them back, no questions asked. -Loren lorennerol@aol.com

On Saturday, September 28, I left a pair of Saloman cross trainers on a rock on the Nisqually moraine, down on the flats below Glacier Vista. When I returned from a day of seracing, someone had apparently 'accidentally' picked them up and walked off with them. It put a sour note on an otherwise fun day. If you are reading this, and have my shoes, I'd appreciate getting them back, no questions asked. -Loren lorennerol@aol.com

Looking for some beta on the couloir within the last 14 days or so. Anyone? Anyone?? -Loren

Nevermind, I got it handled... -Loren [ 08-22-2002, 03:46 PM: Message edited by: CascadeClimber ]

I don't have a pic of the lower 'icefall', but here is the upper part of the glacier. The access route to the North Ridge is non-descript from this angle, but fairly obvious when you are there- just don't go too high on the glacier. I think it is via 'snow point' just above the hairpin turn we took (in blue). We went in via Cache Col. My partner did the Middle Fork drainage approach on his last trip and said never again. More here: http://cascadeclimber.com/mt__formidable.htm -Loren [ 08-06-2002, 09:09 PM: Message edited by: CascadeClimber ]

The "trail is just west of a meadow/clearing, climbs in trees, then exits east into the meadow" description sounds exactly like Variation #2, which I came down from Sherpa last year. In fact, here is my description from last year: "We rejoin the Ingalls trail 100 feet east of the Turnpike Creek junction." Hmmm. Ray- that first picture you posted shows the correct entry from the valley bottom? If so, I'll print it and take it along. Thx all- Loren

Now that is the info I was looking for EasyPeaks! For your succinct and effective proffering of mountain info, I hereby dub you this week's honorary MasterBeta. -Loren