CascadeClimber

Climbed it with two others on July 3. The route is in great shape, and the Coleman Headwall also looks good. Full TR here: http://cascadeclimber.com/north_ridge1.htm

Dan- It is pretty moderate and loose. There is quite a bit of 4th with some low to mid 5th mixed in. The approach is long. It isn't a route that I'll repeat. Full TR and some pics here: http://cascadeclimber.com/west_ridge.htm Cheers- CC

Before I get flamed I want to be perfectly clear that Mr. Loren S. is *not* this Loren, aka CascadeClimber. -CC

We passed the ice cliff on the left, the large middle crevasse near the middle of the glacier, and the schrund back toward the left. We stayed on the left side of the couloir until we split off onto the right branch near the top. The cornice is gone. The descent down the Sherpa was pretty straightforward. Oddly, we saw zero spontaneous rock or ice fall the entire day. YMMV. Full TR here: http://www.cascadeclimber.com/mount_stuart.htm Pictures up by the end of the week. -CC

My two cents: Yes, an occassional joke is funny. But lately almost every thread has deteriorated into inane banter, frequently at the expense of the original poster. It is nice to have some spice in my food, but when it is over-seasoned everyone just ends up sick. And if you don't like the thread getting moved to Spray, then don't spray in the thread. Believe it or not, there are some people who do frequent this site for beta and help, not humor of marginal quality. I'm one of them. This site used to get some great posts from local legends. But in the last four months they have disappeared. Too bad for us that we lose the chance to interact with the Nelsons and Skoogs of the world. -CC

One Day: Yes, it is possible, and it is a long day when the road is open all the way to the trailhead, which it is not. You will be walking the road for several miles, at least. My advice: Skip the rope, take the axe and crampons, take two days, and enjoy. -CC

I'm headed down that way in a week to try Jefferson (Jefferson Park glacier) and the Three Sisters (from Pole Creek). Any beta on current conditions would be greatly appreciated. -CC

This is the guide referenced in the post above. Don't be fooled by his humble nature- he is a serious badass and a great teacher. http://www.angelfire.com/ak4/HighIceAk/ -CC

Footnote: I did manage to find a shop in Vancouver with the stuff I want. However, the price of the stuff was the same (exactly) there as here, even with the phenomenal exchange rate. So, if the rate ever drops back down to $1.25C/$1.00US (or so), Arc'teryx gear will actually be less expensive in the US. Go figure. -CC

Hey you Canucks- Can any of you tell me which shops in Vancouver (or nearby vicinity) carry Arc'Teryx soft goods? I'm interested in picking up a new set of Goretex. MEC carries their packs, but not Gtex. -CC

Well, CC the gear gumby is at it again. Sometime in early April I made an evening hike up Tiger and left my green Marmot Gtex jacket in the OSAT meeting area near the top of West Tiger 3. I really need to get the jacket back, and would be quite appreciative if the person who found it would step forward. Feeling disgusted with myself- CC

Well, CC the gear gumby is at it again. Sometime in early April I made an evening hike up Tiger and left my green Marmot Gtex jacket in the OSAT meeting area near the top of West Tiger 3. I really need to get the jacket back, and would be quite appreciative if the person who found it would step forward. Feeling disgusted with myself- CC

Ah, change the view setting from "Last 45 (or 30, or whatever) Days" to "Show All". -CC

You might try looking over in the Personal Climbing Sites section here. I also recommend http://www.cascadeclimber.com. I know the guy that runs it, he is okay. -CC

I hear there is already a route up there, but it is pretty moderate because it is a jug-fest. -CC

Without endorsing or condemning the route or people involved, here is a link to the topo: Condorphamine topo -CC [This message has been edited by CascadeClimber (edited 04-21-2001).]

That is unfortunate. From a learning from mistakes standpoint, I'd like to hear about any more info. Also, it is interesting to me how precisely wrong they were about the height of the mountain. Hopefully the rest of the report is more accurate. -CC

Anyone have any recent beta from this road and the trail to the ridge? I'm contemplating a little outing there this weekend, but we need to ba able to drive to the road and make good time to treeline. Any recent info appreciated. -CC

Just a few observations: - Remember that the group that posts here is in no way a representative sample of the climbers (who are *not* a community) in this state. - There are many people reading these posts and not posting themselves (lurking). Including, I would guess, the people in question and the land managers. - Homo pussy? Is this grade school? If you were one of the people working on the routes in question would you stick your head up in this forum? A portion of the posters here are starting to sound like a lynch mob. Remember that people were once burned at the stake for being witches and the "community" supported the action. And worse has happened when a group of people assumed that they were the majority b/c they didn't choose to hear the other voices. If you really want to know what they are thinking, then go forward with an olive branch, not a crow-bar, chisel and childish name-calling. And if your mind is closed, then don't pretend it isn't. It also occurs to me that bolted routes means more people which means my "alpine" playground (questionable in my book since it is a stone's throw from a freeway) is more crowded (by "lesser" climbers). Anyone care to step out from behind the convenient defense of ethics and fess up to that fear? Here, I'll go first: It is precisely the reason I don't want the west-side road opened on Rainier. Climbers, in general, are fond of anarchy. Note the fear of the land managers making a rule. We think of that as the worst possible outcome. And the thought of getting together to make a decision as a group? To be a community? I'd love to see it happen and I have no clue how to do it: This is a group that dislikes crowds, rules, and red tape ('cept on that cherry project Remember folks, opinions are like assholes: Everyone has one, and thinks theirs is the only one that doesn't stink. -CC

I guess I fall on the more lenient side of this argument. As much as I don't like to see wild places cluttered with human garbage (trails, horse manure, chopped trees, bolts, etc.), I also clip *every* hanger I see in the alpine, regardless of the who, what, where, when, why, and how of it. And until I am will to bypass those "unnecessary" bolts (and slings and pins and other fixed gear), I don't think I have any right to complain about them. But about that disgraceful mess on Lundin... -CC

There is a great little shop in Shasta City, The Fifth Season. They are friendly and usually have previous or same-day beta on conditions. http://www.thefifthseason.com/ Also, check www.mtncommunity.org. A couple frequent posters from that site on on Shasta this weekend. -CC

www.mtncommunity.org, a replacement for rec.climbing.useful, premiered on Monday, March 19, 2001.The site is similar in format to CascadeClimbers.com, but is not geographically specific. It is a great place to get info on areas other than the PNW, and the standard gear tips, etc. www.mtncommunity.org also has a Backcountry forum specifically for hikers and backpackers, and "The Pub", a place for outdoor enthusiasts to shoot the shit about topics other than climbing. Come on over and check it out. (posted with permission from Jon) -CascadeClimber [This message has been edited by CascadeClimber (edited 03-23-2001).]

Thanks, Mike. And thanks for the mention on your site, too. I ended up with 54 pitches this year!

As my partner and I skinned the concrete-hard snow in the Commonwealth on March 4, I stopped to take a picture of our objective: Red Mountain. As I start to ski away, he says, "Hey, want your gloves?" I'd dropped them in the process of taking the picture. I picked them up and continued, glad he was behind me to correct may error and save me from losing a $50 pair of gloves. Unfortunately, he was in the lead when I took a picture just past the flat nob at the base of the west ridge, so when this gumby dropped his gloves again, they stayed there. I realized it about 30 minutes later. Sooo, if you happen to find a pair of black Marmot X-Trainer gloves, size medium, in the vicinity of the west ridge of Red, I'd be quite happy to get them back. Red faced with my tail between my legs- Gumby (aka CascadeClimber)

I suspect that the skiing window on Adams will be short this year. The south side gets blasted by the sun and in recent years it has turned into a mess of rotten sastrugi by mid-summer. I tried to ski from Piker's in early August, 1999 and ended up taking my skis off and walking most of the way back to the lunch counter. It was the mogul field from hell. Go early! But about Hood- I've skied twice from the true summit and I have to say that shooting through the Pearly Gates with that 'schrund smiling up at me from below is one of the more thrilling experiences I've had skiing the volcanoes. Shasta- Mt. Shasta City is a very cool little town. There is a mountain shop, The Fifth Season, full of nice, friendly folks, great cragging nearby, and for a real treat stop off at Stewart Mineral Springs. -CC