CascadeClimber

We're going to end up with only one effing choice for gear here: BD. This is bad for the consumer all the way around. Suck.

Huh? So he came to and left Register Rock while you were on the true summit? Sorry, but if he don't go to the summit, he didn't go to the summit. It might only be 100 yards, but it doesn't count in my book if he didn't finish. Eight hours is a nice time- good job!

It certainly makes you as qualified as one of the other candidates. It was nice to see you again- congrats on making the summit. L

I've heard a number of reports of new routes up there in recent years. In every case it sounded like this: "I got permission to put up a new route, which I did. It's great. But the land managers made me agree to not tell anyone where it is." Maybe someone should ride their snowmobile up the west side of Si...

Yes. It is. It is?? When did that change? I hate those damn sledders who can't stay within their boundaries. Seems like Darwin failed us in this case.

I have an AOL email addy for him that isn't good anymore. If you have contact info for Dale please PM me, or let him know to email me. Thanks- Loren (loren@cascadeclimber.com)

Nothing like some classic Cascades wallowing How the NE Slab look? I figured the radio was a goner. No worries. L

In my non-expert opinion conditions were quite stable. The recent snow fell on a wet, soft suface to which is it reasonably well bonded. There were some very minor sluffs on south facing slopes caused by snow falling out of trees. We didn't cause even a sluff coming down the descent couloir or slogging down the basin to our skis in snow up to thigh deep.

Lost a yellow FRS radio on the first pitch today. Would be nice to get it back if anyone happens to find it. Getting up to the notch above the basin was perhaps the worst wallow I've experienced in the Cascades- that side was wind loaded with snow up to chest deep. Slogga slogga. The NEB is still in good shape. The waterfall is a bit aerated from the sun hitting it, but took screws just fine.

Agree: Both routes are in plum shape, as these routes go. If you are expecting continuous water ice you will be disappointed. If you want fun, airy climbing without a lot of scratching around on rock, then go get on them. The NF route is starting left of normal, and then traversing into the usual corner because of the avy crown. This isn't the usual glide crack that forms, it's a full-on overhanging crown. The route had decent ice and neve, especially if you stay just left of the normal line (20 feet or so). The NEB has a spicy start on the right side, and the crux up high was surprisingly attention-getting. It's good ice and protectable, but steep for just a few moves. There is good snow coverage on the rib above the opening pitch, and also across the east face to the crux. The approach is (was) in super-easy shape. I was 85 minutes to the Thumb Tack from the lot. I started on the NEB, then went over to the NF. It was in such good shape and so much fun that I ran another lap on it, then skied back to the car. Even with my crappy skiing and tired legs, I was on my way home just after 1:30, having left the car at 6:45. Edit to add: I got Ann's ropes back to her yesterday, but my wallet went missing. What the hell happened to Karma?? Thanks to Ann for a nice bottle of wine!

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Yeah, I have your ropes. And for what it it' worth, moving the knot past the slot in the cornice wasn't enough to make them pull: I had to drop them from above. PM me and we'll figure out how to get them back to you.

Yeah, it was a joy to ski out with 20 pounds (weighed them) of soaking wet ropes in my pack. Dunno why they didn't just go back up the slope and free them. Oh well, it's my karmic investment for the month.

You mean a computer or a butler?

I-90 area climb. PM me where and a description and I'll get them back to you. L

Hey RG, hows about you post back here when the determination about whether Paradise is going to be open to the public on Sunday and save us all a nickel on phone calls? Pretty please?

Thousands of people spend as much time dorking around every year at the site of the worst mountaineering incident ever in the lower 48. I guess it comes down to perspective and 'herd mentality': Somehow the fact that a hundred people tromp under the seracs of the Ingraham icefall every summer day makes it seem safe. But more than half the times I've come down that suck-ass route (DC) there has been big blocks of fallen serac in that area that weren't there when we went through on the way up. Link to the other CK Route TR L

I hope that you won't take this the wrong way, but from my long-distance arm-chair, it looked like your route had objective hazards on par with "Reality Bath," and that for large stretches of the route anyone attempting to climb it would run the risk of getting pulped by a serac fall. I wasn't there, have never been on the mountain, let alone the route - so am I seriously off base here? Yes, you are off base. We spent about an hour directly under the ice cliffs. 25 minutes was soloing on unprotectable 4th and low 5th slabs. The lower 1/3 of the route, including the technical crux, is fully or partially protected, and the upper 1/3 is not at all threatened. But whatever. If Jens and I turn out to be the only people to ever set foot up there, I'll not complain. It's a wild, untrammeled, beautiful place that requires good fitness and solid all-around mountaineering skills. Peace- L

Revenge looked fat last Sunday mid-day. Can only be fatter now. Mikey's Gully is hidden from the road.

Anyone want to skin up to Muir on Monday? From NOAA: "DRY WEATHER WILL PREVAIL ON MONDAY UNDER HIGH PRESSURE ALOFT." Email me: loren@cascadeclimber.com

Nice! Alta is a lovely place with a great view. That bit of nastiness at the end is avoidable with a little jog to the left before the notch.

I asked about the picnic area and was told that they don't feel there is a safe pedestrian corridor to/from that area in the winter. I'm not saying I agree, just passing along what I was told.

Some thoughts and info on access to Mount Rainier this winter... I spent about an hour on the phone today with an official at the park talking about access this winter and winter access in general. He asked me to help get the word out about parking in the Paradise area this winter. The bottom line is that there are only about 20 spots at Paradise where overnight parking will be allowed this winter. About half will be set aside for climbers (the number most often mentioned is 9) and the remainder will be set aside for snow campers. Permits for these parking spots will be issued on a first-come first-served basis. Due to the construction and, in my opinion, really bad planning, there are only 100 parking spots in total at Paradise this winter. Average weekday demand for parking is 70 spots. Average weekend demand is in the 150 to 180 range, and on a nice weekend the demand is around 300. Keep in mind that these numbers are approximate. But you can do the math on this and quickly see that there is not nearly enough parking for overnight climbers, campers, or day use this winter. There is no way to tell if you'll get a parking spot before you get down there, and with only nine or so overnight spots, there isn't anyway to call ahead and make sure something will be available. Parties are strongly encouraged to carpool and large overnight camping groups will only be issued one parking permit for each nine people, effectively requiring them to shuttle themselves. There is overnight parking at Narada Falls. In the past this has rarely been full. There will also be a good bit of overnight parking (no count, sorry) at the Nisqually (aka Glacier View) Bridge. So these two places are fallback options for Paradise. And if you can park there you may be able to hitch or otherwise get transported up to Paradise (this is my suggestion- the park is not recommending hitch hiking), and then ski (or snowshoe) back to either location. I made a point to express my irritation with the way the re-opening of the park was managed last spring- that the guide services were allowed access when the public was not, and also pointed out that having another winter point of access to the park, like Ipsut or (even better) the White River turn-off or the Sunrise/White River wye or even the campground would ease the pressure on Paradise. Even when all the construction is done (May 2008), there will be a dearth of parking spaces, as the upper lot will hold the new visitor center and the old visitor center will not yet be torn down. And once it is torn down there will still be a net loss in parking spaces, relative to the way it used to be. In my estimation we are headed toward a shuttle system in the park (or at least the Paradise area), though the person I spoke to acknowledged that there are some serious logistical problems with requiring climbers and backcountry users to shuttle, not the least of which is the question of transportation for climbers who arrive back at Paradise at 2:00 AM. I also pointed out that requiring a shuttle for climbers could push the cost for non-guided climbers to over $100 for a single outing, which excludes a group of people who should not be excluded from using a national resource. I encourage everyone who has an opinion of any sort on this to call down to the park or write a letter. Raging at the people issuing permits at the museum or the Jackson Visitor Center won't be help the parking situation and it sends the wrong message about climbers. So again, if you have an opinion get involved. This has been my once-in-a-decade public service announcement. Loren

Check your PMs, Tom.

Bump. Tuesday afternoon/Wednesday (Nov 20-21), if the predicted weather shows up.