CascadeClimber

Some thoughts and info on access to Mount Rainier this winter... I spent about an hour on the phone today with an official at the park talking about access this winter and winter access in general. He asked me to help get the word out about parking in the Paradise area this winter. The bottom line is that there are only about 20 spots at Paradise where overnight parking will be allowed this winter. About half will be set aside for climbers (the number most often mentioned is 9) and the remainder will be set aside for snow campers. Permits for these parking spots will be issued on a first-come first-served basis. Due to the construction and, in my opinion, really bad planning, there are only 100 parking spots in total at Paradise this winter. Average weekday demand for parking is 70 spots. Average weekend demand is in the 150 to 180 range, and on a nice weekend the demand is around 300. Keep in mind that these numbers are approximate. But you can do the math on this and quickly see that there is not nearly enough parking for overnight climbers, campers, or day use this winter. There is no way to tell if you'll get a parking spot before you get down there, and with only nine or so overnight spots, there isn't anyway to call ahead and make sure something will be available. Parties are strongly encouraged to carpool and large overnight camping groups will only be issued one parking permit for each nine people, effectively requiring them to shuttle themselves. There is overnight parking at Narada Falls. In the past this has rarely been full. There will also be a good bit of overnight parking (no count, sorry) at the Nisqually (aka Glacier View) Bridge. So these two places are fallback options for Paradise. And if you can park there you may be able to hitch or otherwise get transported up to Paradise (this is my suggestion- the park is not recommending hitch hiking), and then ski (or snowshoe) back to either location. I made a point to express my irritation with the way the re-opening of the park was managed last spring- that the guide services were allowed access when the public was not, and also pointed out that having another winter point of access to the park, like Ipsut or (even better) the White River turn-off or the Sunrise/White River wye or even the campground would ease the pressure on Paradise. Even when all the construction is done (May 2008), there will be a dearth of parking spaces, as the upper lot will hold the new visitor center and the old visitor center will not yet be torn down. And once it is torn down there will still be a net loss in parking spaces, relative to the way it used to be. In my estimation we are headed toward a shuttle system in the park (or at least the Paradise area), though the person I spoke to acknowledged that there are some serious logistical problems with requiring climbers and backcountry users to shuttle, not the least of which is the question of transportation for climbers who arrive back at Paradise at 2:00 AM. I also pointed out that requiring a shuttle for climbers could push the cost for non-guided climbers to over $100 for a single outing, which excludes a group of people who should not be excluded from using a national resource. I encourage everyone who has an opinion of any sort on this to call down to the park or write a letter. Raging at the people issuing permits at the museum or the Jackson Visitor Center won't be help the parking situation and it sends the wrong message about climbers. So again, if you have an opinion get involved. This has been my once-in-a-decade public service announcement. Loren

Check your PMs, Tom.

Bump. Tuesday afternoon/Wednesday (Nov 20-21), if the predicted weather shows up.

Thanksgiving weekend, rain, sleet, snow, or shine.

Edit: Looking at Nov 20-21, or 23-24 now. Forecast is good for 20-21, so leaning that way. Gib Ledges if it is in shape. Planning to leave Seattle around Noon Tuesday. *********************************************************** Looking for a Rainier partner for Nov 10-11 or Thanksgiving weekend (just not Thanksgiving day). Flexible about route. L

Looking for a partner(s) for a casual South Spur ski this weekend if the weather is good. One day or two is fine. I'm in decent but not great shape, excellent survival skier, but you won't see me linking GS turns at 60 MPH. #1 goal is to have some fun in the sun. Email loren@cascadeclimber.com if interested- I don't check the board often. L

There is more snow up there now than last July 1 when we went through. Looks like the same line would go.

nevermind

Beggars can't be choosers, they say. So this guy wasn't enough gal for you? Besides, there was a chicka or two there, but one retreated because it was too cold(??) and you scared off the other barking at her to use her axe (or was that the same one- it was all so confusing). Thanks again for the shared rap- L

Yeah, and then the powers-that-be spend their time and energy scratching their collective heads about why people are cutting the switchbacks and then wasting money having minions pile logs in the cuts. The PCT between Snoqualmie Pass and Kendall Pass is another example.

I walked down from Ingalls yesterday and, in a fit of frustration over all the stupid-ass switch backs, started down an old way-trail. It made a bee-line from Ingalls Pass to the the Esmerelda Basin trail just 11 minutes from the lot (4 minutes from the 'new' trail junction). It had a grand total of four switchbacks and was not at all overly steep. Between the 'new' Ingalls trail and that moronic Cascade Pass trail( about four miles and 36 switchbacks to cover 0.9 miles as the crow flies), I just don't understand. Does anyone have an explanation for these trails that have so many switchbacks that they are practically flat? Parts of the new Ingalls trail actually go downhill on the way up.

From the Mutineers: Rank Peak Name Height 1 Mount Rainier 14410 2 Mount Adams 12276 3 Little Tahoma 11138 4 Mount Baker 10781 5 Glacier Peak 10520+ 6 Bonanza Peak 9511 7 Mount Stuart 9415 8 Mount Fernow 9249 9 Mount Goode 9200+ 10 Mount Shuksan 9131 11 Buckner Mountain 9112 12 Seven-Fingered Jack 9100 13 Mount Logan 9087 14 Jack Mountain 9066 15 Mount Maude 9040+ 16 Mount Spickard 8979 17 Black Peak 8970 18 Mount Redoubt 8969 19 Copper Peak 8964 20 North Gardner Mountain 8956 21 Dome Peak 8920+ 22 Gardner Mountain 8898 23 Boston Peak 8894 24 Silver Star Mountain 8876 25 Eldorado Peak 8868 26 Dragontail Peak 8840+ 27 Forbidden Peak 8815 28 Mesahchie Peak 8795 29 Oval Peak 8795 30 Fortress Mountain 8760+ 31 Mount Lago 8745 32 Robinson Mountain 8726 33 Colchuck Peak 8705 34 Star Peak 8690 35 Remmel Mountain 8685 36 Katsuk Peak 8680+ 37 Sahale Peak 8680+ 38 Cannon Mountain 8638 39 Mount Custer# 8630 40 Ptarmigan Peak 8614 41 Sherpa Peak 8605 42 Clark Mountain 8602 43 Cathedral Peak 8601 44 Kimtah (Gendarmes#) Peak 8600+ 45 Mount Carru 8595 46 Monument Peak 8592 47 Cardinal Peak 8590 48 Osceola Peak 8587 49 Raven Ridge 8580e 50 Buck Mountain 8528+ 51 Storm King 8520+ 52 Enchantment Peak 8520e 53 Reynolds Peak 8512 54 Primus Peak 8508 55 Dark Peak 8504 56 Mox Peaks (SE Twin Spire#) 8504 57 Cashmere Mountain 8501 58 Martin Peak 8500+ 59 Klawatti Peak 8485 60 Horseshoe Peak 8480+ 61 Mount Rahm 8480+ 62 Big Craggy Peak 8470 63 Hoodoo Peak 8464 64 Lost Peak 8464 65 Chiwawa Peak 8459 66 Argonaut Peak 8453 67 Tower Mountain 8444 68 Dorado Needle 8440+ 69 Mount Bigelow 8440+ 70 Little Annapurna 8440+ 71 Sinister Peak 8440+ 72 Emerald Peak 8422 73 Dumbell Mountain 8421 74 NE Dumbell Mountain# 8415 75 Mox Peak (NW Twin Spire#) 8407 76 Saska Peak 8404 77 Azurite Peak 8400+ 78 Luahna Peak 8400+ 79 Pinnacle Mountain 8400+ 80 Blackcap Mountain 8397 81 Courtney Peak 8392 82 South Spectacle Butte 8392 83 Martin Peak 8375 84 Lake Mountain 8371 85 Golden Horn 8366 86 West Craggy Peak 8366 87 Mt St Helens (#6 before 1980 eruption) 8365 88 McClellan Peak 8364 89 Devore Peak 8360+ 90 Amphitheater Mountain 8358 91 Snowfield Peak 8347 92 Austera Peak 8334 93 Windy Peak 8333m 94 Cosho Peak 8332 95 Big Snagtooth 8330+ 96 Mount Formidable 8325 97 Abernathy Peak 8321 98 Switchback (Cooney#) Mountain 8321 99 Tupshin Peak 8320+ 100 Mount Flora 8320 http://www.mountaineers.org/main/peaks.html

Nothing specific. I've climbed almost everything that was on my to-do list, so I don't have an agenda other than to have fun climbing. I guess anything I've not climbed on Rainier would be good, Coleman Headwall, Baker NR, Cooper Spur, Hood North Face, Stuart West Ridge and North Ridge, etc. I'd also be game for any of the 9000 foot peaks in the Cascades. As for WW, I'd only go back up there with one person and his foot is broken

I need partners for easy alpine rock and harder glacier routes this summer. Decent cardio shape=Yes Getting stoned/high while climbing=No Email if interested. Loren loren@cascadeclimber.com

Bravo, Glenn! Mizuki and I had more trips not happen, for various reasons, than did happen. Her death means that I won't get to know her as well as I presumed I would. I'm not going to make the memorial tomorrow, so I'll share some appreciations of her here. I really appreciated Mizuki's choice of what to say. She carefully selected words and was notably unafraid of and appreciative of silence. In this way, she reminded me of 'The Man with No Name' that Clint Eastwood played in his 60s spaghetti western movies. Often a bit of silence and a shit-eating grin communicated more than any words could, and also added emphasis to words when they were spoken. I think Mizuki understood this and embodied it like few I've met. I appreciated Mizuki's unbridled and egoless enthusiasm. She called me several times in April asking me to go into the Stuart Range. "Let's climb the Stuart Glacier Couloir in a day from the gate!" I got winded and broke out in a sweat just thinking about it. I appreciated Mizuki's careful and crafty use of the 'f-word'. As a fellow connoisseur of that word, I saw that she understood its unique role in English. I appreciate that after walking all the way in to the Carbon Glacier last spring on a Lib Ridge attempt and after sitting in a downpour for an hour hoping for a break in the weather, she said, "I want to climb this route, and I want to climb it when the weather is nice so I can see. Let's get the fuck out of here." And, with a smile on her face, we turned and retreated back to White River. I appreciate Mizuki for coming over last August and helping us empty our kitchen, dining room, and living room before we started remodeling. She didn't know me very well, but showed up and enthusiastically helped. I appreciate Mizuki for continuing to ask me to go climbing with her, even though I often said 'no' or 'not this weekend', and even when I said yes, the weather often didn't cooperate for us. I appreciate Mizuki for her remarkle collection of orange clothing and gear. A bit of orange will go with me on every trip from now on, in her memory. I appreciate Mizuki for the TRs she contributed to this site. They are succinct, informative, and humorous. Thank you and godspeed Mizuki. Loren

Looking for someone to pick up in Devil's Lake area on Saturday or Sunday afternoon/evening and drive us back around to Pole Creek. Will compensate with beer or cash. Need someone flexible on day and time. Email. loren (at) cascadeclimber.com

Anyone going to be on Lassen on Friday and want to work a car shuttle? I want to ski the NE Face but go up the short, easy south side. Email. loren (at) cascadeclimber.com

Anyone going to be on Lassen on Friday and want to work a car shuttle? I want to ski the NE Face but go up the short, easy south side. Email. loren (at) cascadeclimber.com

I knew Mizuki. She was the kind of person even a quasi-misanthrope like me couldn't help but like and respect. We planned to make another go at Lib Ridge as soon as she got back. I don't really know what else to say. Here is a pic of her walking the last few feet to the top of Rainier in her ever-present orange puffy: She will be missed. My condolences to all who knew her and Brian. Loren Edit to add: Mizuki posted here as Pochi. The few trip reports that she put up are hilarious.

You don't drop down for them at all, you climb over them (they could even be called 'corners' instead of 'ribs'). Two of the three are visible in the pics I posted above. The middle one is where Dave was standing when he took the 2nd picture. I think you're making it more complicated that it is, and having said that, the whole traverse is across a fairly steep, exposed slope and the last pitch on the bowling alley is steeper. If you can't move quickly on this sort of terrain you're going to be a long time getting to the summit and back. More pics and info here: http://cascadeclimber.com/north_sister_part_2.htm and here: http://cascadeclimber.com/north_sister.htm L Edit to add: Damn that traverse looks fugly without snow on it!

It depends on where you start counting pitches and how long they are. From the little notch/col it's definitely more than three pitches. It's over either two or three ribs. IIRC, you'd have to drop down quite a bit to get under the rib that is the north side of the bowling alley, so keep traversing basically along contour until you get blocked, then go up (similar to Leuthold's). Set a good track, I'll be there next weekend...

I'd be surprised if there wasn't some trace of a boot track this time of year. It does go pretty high, and the traverse goes around a couple ribs, so you have to start out on it without being able to see where the bowling alley begins. Here are a couple pics that AlpineDave took in 2004. We came back that way after climbing the Thayer. Almost to the first rib (looking generally south): Just past the 2nd rib, where we crossed paths with a group on their way up:

Wow, those pics bring back some memories. I climbed it with an old buddy, Michael Moore, in May 1997 after crunching my knee just a few weeks earlier. The ortho twice drained 12oz of fluid out of it so it worked enough for me to go (we also climbed Casaval Ridge on that trip). I'll remember thrashing through that manzanita in shorts for the rest of my life! Thanks for the pics and the trip down memory lane. L

The snow was knee-deep slush: It was an idiotic place to setup an inexperienced group on a very dangerous day. I was the first person to ski down from the Chair basin that day and I kicked off multiple entrained wet-slide avalanches, even in the glades. Even the debris from previous avalanches was re-sliding. I sat at Source Lake watching the Mountie Folly and sadly mused that they still make the same mistakes that they did ten years ago when I was briefly involved with the organization. Whoever was in charge needs to take a long, hard look at the risks they took with other people's lives that day. It was utter foolishness.

Not VIPS, just the commercial interests (hotel and guide concessions) and their paying customers (people staying at the hotel and guided climbers). So the road is good enough to drive, but only if you are a business making money in the park, or their paying customer. I knew this would happen and it irritates the living shit out of me. Whatever park person made this call is a fuckhead and can go to hell. If it's (the road, the park, or any portion thereof) closed to the general public it should be closed to everyone. Period. :mad: :mad: