BundledUpSurfer

As Tom said, we didn't notice either bivy blowing away so I just secured the tent. If only I had known... Good luck finding your stuff. That sucks.

I’m looking for partners for a winter ascent of Rainier. I’d also like to work up to the climb with a couple of autumn summits. I’ve climbed Rainier 4 times by 3 different routes - twice in a day, and have done many winter overnight trips in the Cascades. I have all the winter gear one could want except a beacon, which I can easily rent, buy, or borrow. Looking for partners with adequate experience, very good fitness, and, most importantly, a lot of ambition. David malkind@seattleu.edu (I live in Ballard)

Easton is a snowmobile park. Heliotrope ridge is plowed for snowmobiles up to the trailhead, but you can only take a car (with four wheel drive - my Volvo got stuck with chains on) about half way up. You don't need a sled, either. We walked on snow shoes from nearly the beginning of the road to about 5,500 on Heliotrope in one day last year. I've skinned it about 3 times with a 35-pound pack in a day no problem. If you have ideal conditions, and don't have to plunge step, you could knock it off in two days. Otherwise, plan at least one extra day for post-holing. Even with skis it can be long and arduous (I've done two one-day ascents of Rainier, and other crazy stuff, so trust me on that). Last bit of advice: Check the avalanche forecast religiously and stay in uber shape

(btw: sent you a pm) I would say snow conditions could pose biggest problems. Post holing at altitude can wear out even the fittest climbers. When I went to Muir in the winter I was sinking nearly a foot on my 80+mm skis (0 degrees at Muir that night according to NOAA). On the other hand, this years first ascent was made after a perfect melt-freeze cycle followed by a perfect weather window and low avalanche danger. I read the report on Gauthier's site and it seemed like they were able to walk right to the top on firm/wind swept snow. Also, that perfect aforementioned weather window back in late January happened between Tuesday and Friday. I went up to Mt. Baker that Saturday and literally watched the latest bad-weather system take over the mountain from my tent on Heliotrope ridge. Sucked eggs. btw: I'm also looking to do a Rainier winter ascent.

Trip: Mt. Rainier - Chasing Sherpa (on the DC) Date: 8/16/2008 Trip Report: Chasing Sherpa Shortly after I mentally committed to doing another one-day solo of the DC on Sat., Aug. 16, I came across an article that mentioned Sherpa Lhakpa would be going for the speed record on the very same day. I decided I would go for my own personal acclimatized-at-sea-level-and-not-very-talented speed record. It looked to be an epic battle. In one corner we had: One bad-ass Sherpa, acclimatized at 20,000 feet, breed from Himalayan mountain men... In the other corner was: One mediocre me, acclimatized at sea level, breed from pig hunters and money lenders... The chase: I left the Paradise parking lot at 12:04 am and had my camera ready for the inevitble photo of the Sherpa running past me. I hit the crater rim at 8:14 am with no sign of the Sherpa. After returning from the true summit, I came back to the summit registry to find out from the two climbers there (see picture) that I had just missed Sherpa Lhakpa. They even showed me a digital photo they snagged of him (see picture of Sherpa). I never saw him. I heard he made it to the top in something short of 4 hours, or, less than half the time as me. My acclimatized-at-sea-level-and-not-very-talented speed record wasn’t so impressive, but it was fun chasing a Sherpa. http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3294/2860125339_8cb8d8e2aa.jpg?v=0 http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3200/2860125489_10ca39c98d.jpg?v=0 (Sherpa picture removed per Sherpa's request) http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3088/2860953296_a168bea189.jpg?v=0

I summited on Sat, Aug 16. FYI: When you hit the rocky part of the clever pay more attention to the wands than the well-worn trail. I made the mistake of following several rope teams on a well-worn trail until I turned around and just followed the RMI wands. That route made the most of what little snow is left and avoided unnecessary scree. Btw: made the summit in a straight 8-hour push and plan to post a report when I get the pictures. I think the Super Sherpa made the same climb on the same day in about half the time. Of course I live and work in Seattle and he's acclimatized to, oh, say 20,0000 feet.