Winter

Man, there is a lot of information floating around out there. Is there any evidence that cams made BEFORE 2005 are susceptible to failure?

My condolensces to the families. A horrible tragedy. In Dru's defense, the reporting is very misleading. The Umbwe route is an access route to the mountain that guided parties routinely use to access the Baranco Wall which leads to the easier summit route on the other side of the hill. It sounds as if the accident actually happened on the Western Breach/Arrow Glacier Route, which ascends straight up the 4th class wall from the top of the Umbwe access route. Its a wall of choss and there are places that the route is very exposed, so I'm not surprised the rock fall has dire consequences. But I'm still suprised there were so many people caught, because most of the porters usually walk around to meet the climbers on their descent.

You could climb trad there if you wanted, but there aren't that many lines, and it isn't really worth it to bring the gear unless you want to go exploring on a boat/motorcycle/car. Most of the routes protect with a combination of bolts and slings passed through holes in the limestone. There were perfectly good cracks that had been bolted.

I know I know. I wouldn't spend a free month sport climbing either. Just meant that you need at least a month to really get a feel for this place.

Climb: Thailand- Date of Climb: 1/8/2006 Trip Report: Pictures from trip to Thailand. 12-24-05 to 1-8-06: wat pho beaches some NEY parties thai food some monkeys and some climbing Basically its a climbing paradise. Steep walls, huge jugs, and soft grades. Christened the 2nd annual climbing honeymoon. Two weeks is WAAYY too short for this place. Plan for at least a month - preferably much much more. Notes for Thailand: - Plan to sweat - Bring a rag and your worst tee-shirts. - Take slings and old rope to donate for protection and climbing anchors - Try to plan trip for sometime other than XMas/NYE holiday. Euro families everywhere. Higher prices. Still no real waits for climbing. Gear Notes: 14 draws, 60 m rope Approach Notes: 4 flights, a minibus ride and a longboat ride

Well I sat on a 12 hour flight from Hong Kong to Vancouver, BC. An hour or two into the flight and just after the first meal and drink service, they announce that some dumb ass shoved a full diaper down one of the toilets in economy, which shut down all the toilets on that side of the plane. There were lines 10-12 people long to get into the three remaining toilets. I had just sucked down several free beers and made a bee line for first class. They tried the polite approach first - then they insisted I return to economy. Then I threatened to piss on em. After that we understood each other.

So I just got back from Thailand and donated my beat up and trashed 18 month old rope to the cause when we left. Now I need a new one. I'm thinking about finally specializing and getting two - one 9.2 for alpine and a 9.8-10.2 for cragging. Still not sure I can afford it - may start with the fatter rope. Anyone have any recommendations and/or recent deals they've found?

Washington is WAY better - I suggest you move there.

Sobo expect a call from the CIA any day now.

Its not about who love ... ... who you love Its all about do you love ... ... do you love

The evolution from the Golden Grannies to Desperate Houswives and Sex in the City proves there's hope for mankind.

BITE ME!

downtown portland. leaving for Ton Sai sat morning for two weeks. woot!

sneaky bastard!

Anyone for a pub club here over New Year's?

Is there gonna be any ice here?

I'm gonna kick your ass Iain!!

What's the weather gonna be like here? And here?

So whatever happened here? Cage match? Ass kicking? The guys shows up and all the threats and tough talk fade into the background? 3 pm at the teeter totter!!

making out with butch no doubt

I just got back from a trip up the South Side, and we skied down the upper White River and traversed in down near Silcox. Below that, it looked pretty grim. I'm sure you could pick a way through, but it was looking super dirty with pretty poor coverage. I would suggest skiing the upper, traversing out and then dropping in closer to Timberline for the ski down, or drop in from the Meadows side lower down. Just my .02. All in all the upper mountain looks so so right now. We need more snow. Huge melt outs on West Crater Rim and very little rime. Shit started pouring off the Steel Cliffs at about 8-9 am.

Bill, check your PMs and call me.

If I dream of Paris Hilton tonight, I'm gonna find you Karl and pin your eyes open and make you watch 15 hours of Britnay Spears videos.

I bring moderators on winter trips so my threads dont get hijacked by assholes.

the suckiest climbers dredge up old useless posts long forgotten.