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AlpineK

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Everything posted by AlpineK

  1. AlpineK

    Sport vs Trad

    Could we please talk about some serious issues that are human caused in the NW. English Ivy [img:center]http://tbn2.google.com/images?q=tbn:Vr4-7ocXLtjAnM:http://smaydaenvironmental.com/photos/biological/Noxious-Weed-Management-Plans/English%2520Ivy%2520on%2520alder%2520and%2520maple.jpg[/img] Maybe in 50 years we can come back to bolts. Wait your turn!
  2. AlpineK

    Sport vs Trad

    Nutria Some sporto brought them from Argentina
  3. AlpineK

    Sport vs Trad

    Bolts on sport climbs seem like a minor league problem. Could we please focus our attention on a real problem. [img:center]http://www.seattlewildlifecontrol.com/images/nutriaw.jpg[/img] Northwest Nuisance Wildlife Control Getting rid of invasive animal species takes a State Agency. I don't see any State Agencies focused on rap bolts.
  4. Quite a guy Riccardo Cassin More [img:center]http://aai.cc/images/programs/s_face_mckinley.jpg[/img]
  5. I can't think of a good reason not to think about snow and skiing. Last Monday
  6. AlpineK

    Sport vs Trad

    Personally I think there are a variety of crags in the State of Washington. Each crag needs it's own ethical rules. Castle Rock has traditionally been a ground up climbing area, however part of the reason it's such a great crag is logging (Loggers Ledge). Climbers caused a large amount of environmental impact to the crag when they showed up originally. Logging improved the crag for climbing at the expense of removing some old trees. You could also look at old pictures of Index. Climbers removed a lot of habitat by scrubbing cracks and moss. Both of these are predominantly trad climbing areas, yet climbers still have an impact on them. Bolts do last longer than the effects of cleaning, so they are more controversial. In the end specific crags need route setting guidelines. It's great that DDD at Castle Rock got chopped since it didn't fit with the other routes at the crag, but I wouldn't say the same thing about climbs at Exit 38. All crags, sport or trad, are just human interfaces with nature. We benefit from getting out on the rock, but by being there, especially on a regular basis, we will have impact (cause damage).
  7. AlpineK

    Sport vs Trad

    This group is making some major headway on the great bolting debate. Maybe we should all take part in the world conference on bolted sport climbs.
  8. AlpineK

    Sport vs Trad

    All cragging should be outlawed. Face it real climbing involves a summit. Why bother to climb if you're not summiting a geographic feature with prominence. Furthermore the true hardcore don't rely on man made trails. They brushwack to the base of every climb. Trails = Via Ferrata
  9. If you're native to the PNW there is only one choice for clowns. [img:center]http://seattletimes.nwsource.com/ABPub/2007/11/07/2004000576.gif[/img]
  10. The Kain Route on Mt. Louis is a fun one (5.7). Brewer Buttress on Castle Mountain is good (5.6). Both routes are north of HWY 1 between Lake Louise and Banff. You can't miss Castle Mountain driving on the highway. Ultra Brewer is better, but it is a little tricky to find the base, and it is 5.9. Those are the ones I've done close to Field. Mt Victoria seems like a fun thing to do. The weather stays pretty good through September. October I don't know. I went on a couple bc ski trips off the Parkway in November. The weather sucked then.
  11. Yep I'm happy to say I'm friends with the nodder. It sure is smokey in here [video:youtube]9H71AzUzR20
  12. Organic farmers will never have the skills necessary to produce food like this. [img:center]http://8.media.tumblr.com/i2dw5nf19py0i080a1012PR1o1_500.jpg[/img] Burger topped with easy cheese and a jelly donut. All organic
  13. AlpineK

    Sport vs Trad

    I'd like to post on this very important thread. This guy didn't leave any fixed bolts on route. He did leave himself though. Then there's D1. It's a rad route. I don't remember fixed bolts, but there sure were a lot of fixed pins. [img:center]http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/3/37/Fall05-LongsPeakCU_JPG_RSZ_md.jpg/300px-Fall05-LongsPeakCU_JPG_RSZ_md.jpg[/img] I found a good article about Bob Kamps He was a hard core trad climber, but you know what, I found this in the article, I guess smart guys can climb both trad and sport
  14. AlpineK

    Hey Everybody!

    Already been posted
  15. If you send me $7.99 I'll delete your photo for you Josh. I believe you can do it yourself though. Select the edit option then delete.
  16. If you're set on Forbidden the NW Face is a really good route I can't speak for the N Ridge. If you do climb along the Ptarmigan you don't need a park permit. You're out of the park once you either leave Cascade Pass or reach the other side of Cache Col.
  17. Hmmm. I've had to replace radiator hoses due to porcupines, but never had a problem with marmots.
  18. There seems to be a lot of talk about duct tape and big balls. That sounds like a painful mistake.
  19. I remember wondering about routes on that side of the mountain after doing the Ptarmigan Traverse. At the time getting into Dome was a slight pain in the ass. With the westside road a mess your treck from Chelan makes the whole thing crazy. Right on
  20. [video:youtube]wvIAyxpjEuc
  21. Josh, You can do whatever you want to in terms of climbing. The only thing you should do is try like mad to be honest with yourself about your own skills when you know you'll be pushing your personal ability level. Make sure you trust your climbing partners too You're young and enthusiastic now. Right on! I remember being that same way with climbing when I was a teenager. Remember there are a lot of risks with a hobby like climbing. Some risks should be really obvious (unprotected fall = death), while others are unforeseeable. That's the nature of climbing. When I was a teen I pushed myself hard. Like so many things kids do at that age desire can easily get the better of you. Some lessons you need to learn the hard way, and that may be ok. On the other hand some lessons are harder than anyone needs to experience. Unfortunately I put myself in situation climbing when I was 19 where enthusiasm got the better of me. It's been a long time since then, but it's still a painful memory occasionally. Anyway go climbing! Just make having fun the top priority. You can always come back again for a second round at the same route or mountain.
  22. AlpineK

    Green My Ass

  23. Another descent for the N ridge of Stuart is down the west ridge. 1 or 2 short raps at the top then scrambling. We did that once. It worked pretty well. The descent from the col to the base of the N ridge isn't too bad crampon free.
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